The walk from Najera itself was uneventful until about the five mile mark. I'm breezing along when I catch up to a young women who is standing on the trail looking back in my direction. As I get close to her she asks if I speak English? She is an American about twenty two I'm guessing. I say simply "yes". She turns and hands me her empty refillable water bottle and says "hook this on the back". No please can you help me? Okay. I take the bottle from her and I'm trying to find the other strap with the clasp and in less than ten seconds she abruptly just slides out of her backpack, throws it on the ground and says "never mind".
Wow. What a great opportunity for BC Jim to make an appearance. I take a deep breath and then turn back to her and I said "I don't know why you are walking the Camino or if you are in search of something, but if you are I suggest you add a search for manners and patience". I then just walked away. How do they find me?
I took a few pictures today which I'm trying to send to everyone so if I miss you it's because I can't figure out how to create a group on my iPad. Yes, I know I should be able to do this. I tried and went to the App Store but let's just say it's not working. So if you notice someone you think has any interest in the photos or the blog just forward it to them for me.
I stopped only once today for a cup of coffee at the first village in Axofra about three and a half miles out of Najera. There was a group of twenty something's trying to figure out where they might stay tonight. One guy is wearing a Kilt so I guess he's from Scotland. One other guy is from Ireland and the three girls are American. Everybody is smoking. Hard to believe but it appears that a significant percentage of the people under thirty I see on the Camino do smoke. I thought they were supposed to be smarter than us old people. After all, they can just Google something like "effects of smoking" but for some reason that's not part of their searches. The evils of Capitalism yes, smoking no. Sorry.
The weather is perfect. Cool and lots of clouds. It really is a nice day. I started early today but not by choice. I was sound asleep at 7:00 when the guy outside my room with the leaf blower woke me up. Yes, a leaf blower! I thought I was back in Southern California but at least at home it does not happen much before 8:00 and never on a Sunday. The result, I leave early.
The good thing about leaving early is that I will have more time in Santo Domingo which is a really beautiful little town with the most amazing Cathedral. Unfortunately I forgot that it's Sunday and everything is closed. The one exception is the Cathedral which is open. I visit and take photos including the Two Chickens. More about that later.
Just before I reached Santo Domingo I walked through a small village which has a Golf Club, the Rioja Alta Golf Club. The Camino passes right along the left side of the driving range. I remember that when Pat and John walked the Camino they stopped and hit a couple of balls. I thought about it but I don't need to shank one in Spain ...I'll just wait until I get back. Just beyond the Golf Club there are a number of housing developments that have gone bust. Better than it was two years ago but not entirely. Lots of really ugly architecture. I took a couple of photos which I am sending to Gene who was the architect who did an amazing job on our home in Capistrano! I think he will get a kick out of what is here.
I arrive in Santo Domingo, it's 2:00 in the afternoon. There are two really nice Hotels in Santo Domingo. Both are Paradores. Very nice. I will be staying at the Parador in Santiago, my reward for completing the Camino. I stayed here on my first Camino but when I planned this trip they were both sold out. I'm staying at Hospederiachapitel Cisterciense which is a former Convent and it's managed by Nuns and yes they are dressed in the Nun's Habit. I don't remember the last time I saw a Nun dressed in the Habit. I check in and go to my room. I think I've taken a vow of poverty for the visit. Wow ... It's small, really, really small. This is not the Parador. I will visit the Church of the Two Chickens and I will have dinner at the Paradore.
Okay now for the story of The Two Chickens. I will do my best, there are a few slightly different versions but basically the same story.
It's the year 1060 and a wealthy couple is making their pilgrimage to Santiago when they stop along the way in Santo Domingo. With them is their sixteen year old son. While there for the night the Inn keeper's daughter is smitten with the boy and offers herself to him and he rejects her. She is very upset and bent on revenge. During the night she takes a silver goblet from her father's inn and places it in the boy's satchel . When the family returns to the Camino the next morning the girl goes to her father and tells him that the boy has stolen the silver goblet. The inn keeper tells the sheriff who rides out on the Camino to find the family. He searches the boy's satchel and finds the silver goblet.
They return to Santo Domingo and the judge sentences the boy to death by hanging and also requires that the boy remain hanging from the gallows for seven days as a warning to other pilgrims.
On the scond day the boy's parents return to pay their final respects to their son before returning to the Camino. When they arrive at the gallows the boy is still hanging but not dead. He tells them that he has been saved by a miracle from Santo Domingo and tells them to go to the judge to tell him of the miracle and that the judge will witness another miracle and set him free.
The parents rush to the Judge's home where he is about to have his dinner... Two roasted chickens. The parents tell the Judge about the miracle. The Judge not believing their story announces that "the boy is as dead as the two chickens on his plate". At that moment the two chickens jump up from the plate and run from the kitchen.
The Judge begs for forgiveness and sets the boy free. From that day on there have been two chickens above the alter of the Cathedral of Santo Domingo. The chickens who are chosen for the coop in the Catherdral can never be eaten. There are eighteen chickens which are rotated in pairs in the coop.
It is also said that if during your visit to the Catherdral the rooster crows, you will have the blessing of Santo Domingo. In addition if you find a white chicken feather while in the Catherdral you will have an additional blessing from Santo Domingo.
So there you have it ... The Church of the Two Chickens. Tomorrow I will let you know if the rooster crows while I'm there or if I find a feather. Tomorrow I will leave Santo Domingo and walk to Belorado a distance of about fourteen and a half miles. Until then, good night and Buen Camino.
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