I am on my way to Astorga and the Gaudi. It will be a long walk in the sun but in the end there is Serrano!

Before I tell you tell you about my nearly twenty mile walk today let's go back to last night. I arrive at the Hotel and Casino in Villanangos. It's been long, hot, flat and just not very attractive. There are some points of interest along the way. The bridge across the river and into La Virgen Del Camino is a surprise. But other than that it's just flat, dusty and noisey every step of the way.

I arrive at the Hotel and when I walk into the bar, cafe, card room and front desk I'm ready to get things taken care of and get into the shower. The walk to day to Villadangos is short, only about thirteen miles. Without shade is feels much longer. I have my credential stamped and head to my room. Of course it's on the third floor. It's a small room like most a Camino rooms are but there is a large window which will work well for the laundry.

I'm back downstairs and I order a small beer and decide to go outside and sit and watch the trucks fly by. The bar is noisey and the bar stools are not what I want right now. The little tables outside do have more comfortable chairs. I sit at a table  next to a white haired gentlemen and he asks me where I'm from? I tell him and he tells me that he lives in New Zealand but that he's from Ireland. I'm about to ask him a follow up question when this women , yes an American, just steps between us and asks me directly "what did they charge you for your room?" Before I can say anything she turns and asks the Irish guy the same question. She is obviously not with him and I'm not going to get to know her. I stand up and simply tell her "I don't know" and move back inside. I'm not spending another minute with this person. She sits at the Irish guys table and I just say to him "nice talking with you".

I'm now convinced more than ever that I will not be sitting at the pilgrim dinner table tonight. I purposely go to the dining room late so that I'm certain the pilgrim table will be on course two so there is no way I would have to sit there. I made a good decision because Miss "what did you pay  for your room" is at the table. 

I sit at a small table next to a couple. We start to talk and it turns out they lived in Westport Connecticut and he commuted to New Your about the same time I did. He tells me that they moved to Del Mar which is just south of us. Nice people. They are taking it slow, she has blisters. They will walk half way to Astorga tomorrow and will reach Santiago about four days after I do.

I decide to get up early to start the nearly 20 mile walk to Astorga to get in as many miles as I can in the cooler temperatures. I walk out at about 7:15. It's dark, really dark. The good news is there are practically zero turns today so I don't need to keep searching for the yellow arrows because if I did there would be a problem in this darkness. It is chilly, which is good and it will be great walking conditions for about the first three hours. After that it's warm and dusty.

After covering about fifteen miles I finally reach the Cruceiro Santo Toribio. One of the most famous places pilgrims leave their stones. There are two young Germans there asking for donations to help them build  a new Hostal on the Camino. I make a donation and he helps by taking my picture at the Cruciero. While this point does tell you that you are near Astorga, which you can see below the hill it's still about five miles to the city center. I'm already tired but I've made good time. The goal is to clean up and go to the Restaurante Serrano to try to get a table for dinner. I was there for dinner two yeas ago and it's still one of the best restaurants I have been to. It's now famous and I'm told it could be tough to get a table especially on Saturday night. I will walk over at about 6:00 to see if it's possible.

First to the Gaudi which is almost directly out my Hotel's front door. The Gaudi and the Cathedral sit side by side and are both very impressive. However once you step into the Gaudi you immediately know that you are about to see a building like no other building you have ever set foot in. Up the winding stair case to multiple views of the alters and the collection of crosses. I take a number of photos but I can't do it justice. I'm sure that if you went on line there might be a better photo summary of the Gaudi. It's just stunning.

I am now on my way to the Camino shop but it's closed until six so I just sit at a table outside the cafe in the center square. Mark from Nova Scotia stops by and we catch up. They are staying in the Albegue which has 160 beds. He tells me that Mike and Teresa from Long Beach had to leave earlier than planned because Teresa had a bad ankle sprain and could not go on.

I decide to go to Serrano now to see if I can get in. I walk down the narrow street to the restaurant and as I do the back door opens. There is a small car there and a young guy in a Chefs White coat. I excuse myself and I ask him if he is the chef? He smiles and says yes and I ask if his sister and mother are still also working in the restaurant? I now have his attention. I go on to tell him that I had dinner here two years ago and that I still remember that I had the best Foie gras I have ever had. He is smiling and shakes my hand. I ask him if it's possible to get a table for one tonight? He speaks near perfect English and says" for you my friend, yes. I will tell my sister. He asks my name, shakes my hand again and says eight o'clock." I'm in!

I will close now and finish tomorrow . I'll just say that dinner was great just as I had expected. Tomorrow a short but difficult walk of thirteen miles to Rabanal Del Camino. My new poles will get their first taste of the Camino. Good night. Buen Camino.