It's Monday and it marks my half way point ... But first a walk of seventeen miles with no shade and the first stop for anything is at the ten mile mark.

I leave at 9:30. It will be a long day, a walk of seventeen miles in the sun ... No shade and almost nowhere to rest. I remember this section. It's just boring and long. The first stop will not come until about the tenth mile. No water, nothing available, you must be prepared. I will take very few pictures today because they would all look the same. Miles and miles of farmland or endless rows of sunflowers. 

The look ahead is the same hour after hour even watching the other pilgrims. I watch them if for no other reason but to measure my pace. I pass people while others pass me. It's not a race. You often greet the same people over and over again with "Buen Camino". 

So I'm walking for about an hour and a catch up with a young couple who I have seen before but not met. As I get alongside I ask where are you from? They are from California. Michael is from Brentwood ( the place where the OJ thing happened) and Alexis she's from Santa Barbara, Montecidio actually. She tells me to call her Red because she does have fire engine Irish Red hair. My mothers nickname was Red, same reason.

We walked together for about an hour. Nice kids. He is twenty eight and she is a bit younger. They have been walking in Europe for four months and have no plans beyond the Camino. I never ask and it never comes up ... You know that thing we all are familiar with .. A job. While I envy their ability to stay in strange places without any idea where the next place will be, sleeping on floors, I want to ask them ... What's next? Surely this can't be a lifelong strategy but I'm just not going to go there. I don't want to be seen as some old judgemental guy stuck in his own beliefs. But truth be told I would really like to know how they see this turning out.

There is far more to our conversation which for me was foreign to anything I'm accustomed with but it would take far to long to even scratch the surface. I am about two miles away from my destination and I stop at an Albergue to get something and to use their wifi before I arrive at my accommodation because it does not have wifi. I know this because II have stayed here before. There is no other choice.

I arrive and I meet Bill from Alaska who is the only other person who walked to Burgos on that terrible day. I know only because we were together. We agree to meet for the pilgrim's dinner at 6:30. Perfect because it's now only 5:00. 

I remember this place for a number of reasons not the least of which Is that when you arrive they will wash your clothes for only five Euro. I used the service the last time but did not know they also would dry them for an additional charge so I ended up out back hanging all my stuff on the clothesline. I have that picture and it's a great Camino memory. 

That was then and this is now. I have learned my lesson. I ask about both washing and drying when I check in and yes they will do both for ten Euro. I'm in! As an added benefit of staying In one of the only six private rooms they now have wifi! Wow this is turning into the Four Seasons. I sign up for both. I check into my room and quickly bring my laundry back to the front desk and they tell me it will be finished after dinner at 7:00.

So I get to chill out, read some emails and then meet Bill for dinner. The food is okay. Bill has a badly swollen ankle but says he will just be fine. He is one of those guys who everyone would like. Just a nice guy. Great attitude, always smiling. He asks if I think the Camino changes people .. Or me? I tell him yes and then go on to tell him the meaning of BC Jim and AC Jim and he is just blown away. He loves the idea and agrees with the concept and will bring it back with him to Alaska. He goes on to say that he believes that those days when it really gets tough are the days you will remember most. He then says that he will always remember me because we shared that really hard day together and that is what makes the Camino special. I agree.

He leaves much earlier than I do in the morning because he does not have reservations so I may or may not see him for a few days. He tells me that he is planning on staying in Leon for a couple of days to celebrate his birthday ... He will be 77. Walked the worst day, has a swollen ankle, no reservations, no complaints, they just don't make them this way anymore. 

Tomorrow another long walk of seventeen miles to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos. I hope you are all well. Good night and Buen Camino.