Thursday, September 17, 2015

It's Thursday and I now have two hundred miles behind me.. On to Hornillos Los Camino a walk of thirteen miles.

Let me start by telling you that there will be no internet access from Hornillos so this post will not be sent until Friday. They do have a phone booth.

Today was a really good day. The wind disappeared, no rain and it was cloudy and cool. Perfect for the Camino. I have a normal breakfast today not just the usual bread feast. I'm ready to go. I have dressed for rain and cooler temperatures but I'm only out for ten minutes walking past the Cathedral and I'm cold. I get lucky. There is a Camino shop open and I buy a pull over scarf.  It's like a large headband which can cover your face, most of your head and can be pulled up over your nose or just be kept around your neck.  I had one on my first Camino and it was a good investment. I buy it for two Euro. I'm ready to go. 

Unlike yesterday's impossible conditions today feels like a vacation. The Limos are dry, the passengers are firmly bandages and I am dressed correctly. I'm thinking it's going to be a good day. I wil be correct.

As I leave the city I take a couple of photos of the Catherdral and of the most famous statue in Burgos, the statue of El Sid. I will walk to Rabe de las Calzadis which is about seven miles from where I started before I take my first break. I need to slow down. The trail is flat and mostly dry. There are segments, which have mud from yesterday's storm but for the most part its just easy. The break will slow me down. I walk into the first cafe and it's packed. There is only one person trying to get everyone what they want and I quickly realize that this location will not work so I move ahead. Not more than two hundred yards around the next corner I recognize the little cafe where I had coffee with Michel, Nelly and Fernando for the first time. I go inside and there is only one other Pilgrim and a few locals at the bar having coffee. I order a coffee and while I'm waiting the only other pilgrim there turns to me and says "where are you from". I explain and he tells me that he is from Germany. He mentioned the city but I could not hear him.

With that he jumps right into the what he wants to talk about ... " why are you walking the Camino?". No chit chat let's just get right to it. Okay. I begin to  answer the question by saying that I did it once before and I enjoyed it and he just cuts me off before I can finish what I would have said. He just wants to tell me why he's here. This is what makes the Camino interesting for me.

He tells me that he is walking the Camino as a sacrifice to God which he sees as an exchange of hardship for a blessing. He then looks at me and says that yesterday's walk was a true sacrifice. I agree but I don't say anything.

He goes on to tell me that the blessing he wants to trade for the sacrifice and discomfort he will endure walking the Camino will be used to bring his brother and sister together again. He goes on and tells me that he can no longer watch the two destroy the family and create such problems. In addition he tells me that he fears his death will come before he can make them come back together. So he walks the Camino. I don't even remember if I got my coffee. With that he picks up his backpack and tells me that he must leave to go ahead and secure a place at the nearest Albergue. 

I never did get to answer his question but I get it. I can only hope to see him in Santiago to ask him if it worked?

This is turning into a very nice day. I take a few photos and walk into Hornillos Del Camino in less than five hours. As I walk into the village It starts to come back to me from the first Camino. This is the town where we called Emma's estranged father from the bar on his birthday and sang happy birthday to him from the only phone booth still working in Spain or perhaps the world.  I find the bar, walked in and order a beer and took a picture of the phone booth. 

That day with Emma which I wrote about on my first Camino will always be a very special day for me. It is what the Camino is all about.

With that I take a seat and two minutes later a guy with his own beer wearing a hat with a shamrock on it sits with me. Another really interesting person. He's from Dublin his name is Mick and he is a riot. I only wish I could understand more of what he's saying. He tells me that it took him twelve hours to complete the first day! He goes on to tell me that in the middle of the climb up the Hill of Forgiveness, which was day four from Pamplona, he sheds his boots and walks in sandles. Just took them off and left them there.  I look at his feet and he is wearing a pair of bright blue tennis shoes with no laces. I can't help but ask ... Where did those come from? He tells me that his sandles gave out and he bought the blue shoes a couple of days ago and that they are the wrong size but it was all they had at the shop which is why he has thrown the laces away. He plans to replace them with a new pair of walking boots as soon as possible. His story goes on but he needs to leave in order to secure a bunk in the Albergue before it's sold out. We agree to meet at the next town, Castrojeriz where I know a good restaurant. We will meet at the Plaza Mayor for dinner. Should be fun.

So that's it for today. All good after a very difficult day. Tomorrow on to Castrojeriz a walk of about thirteen miles. Weather looks good and the terrain is very manageable . I am over the two hundred mile count. One step at a time. Good night and Buen Camino.

I just arrived in Hontanas where I am having a slice of pizza and now have wifi! Buen Camino. 

1 comment:

  1. 200 miles already--that's great!! Glad your feet are cooperating. Love reading your stories. Hope you have a good dinner with Mick. And may the luck of the Irish be with both of you on your journey.
    jill

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