On my way to Villafranca del Bierzo twenty miles away. I will now start my Santiago countdown. Today was tough but tomorrow is the most difficult day of the Camino. I have been dreading it since the moment I committed to walking the Camino again.

I will explain the Santiago countdown shortly but first yesterday. The walk to and from Cruz de a Ferro was very difficult. That said I arrive in the village of Molinaseca around five thirty. I left at nine thirty and had some work to be done and also took several breaks along the way. Net result is that I cover the  walk in eight and a hall hours.

When I arrive in Molinseca my guide summary tells me the accomadstion is directly on the left side of St. James way buy it fails to tell me that it's actually past the entire village, when I get to the end of the village I think that I've missed it but I don't now how. The street between the buildings is barely wide enough to get a single car through. I ask an old man siting on his steps and he tells me to keep going in the same direction away from the village. I feel like I flew in to New York and booked a room in Newark. 

I'm very tired, it was a tough day. The last thing I want to do now is to have to walk back into town to eat or buy water etc but it dawns on me that won't have a choice because I need to find a pharmacy for my toe problem.

On my way back to town to find the pharmacy I meet up with Peter, Charlotte and Sonia. I've been calling her Sophi but it's Sonia. We meet for dinner and the conversation is about the next days twenty mile walk. I agree that it will be a long hard day but I'm  already thinking ahead to O'Cebreiro. 

I leave for Villiafranca at 7:30'in the morning. It's dark  I can't wait to get out of the Hotel. As I'm putting on the Limos I stand up and catch the corner of the prehistoric TV mounted on the wall about five feet from the floor on my head. Och!, to say the least in about two hours I can still feel it, no blood but a nice lump to take along with me. I really don't like this Hotel.

I'm of my way I will just have breakfast in Ponferrada. It is a beautiful village with an impressive castle and lots of shops and cafés. I have breakfast and check my email. There will not be a lot to report today, it's just long.

I make my final stop in Cacabelos which is about six miles from Villiafranca. I'm sitting in the shade and Tim and Agnes join me and shortly afterwards Peter, Charlotte and Sonia are there. Tim and Agnes had to take a taxi to finish yesterday, she was sick and the last five miles would have been to much. Peter's shoe has fallen apart and he now has several nagging blisters and will need to take a taxi into Viilliafranca from here after he finds a pharmacy.

Villiafranca will most likely be the last time I meet with all of them before Santiago. They are all going to attack the O'Cebreiro monster in two days while I'm going to the top in one day. We exchange emails so we can catch up in Santiago for dinner. 

Now the countdown. When I leave for O'Cebreiro on Wednesdsy morning on October 30th I will have eight days of walking remaining. Santiago has eight letters so I will track my final countdown by assigning one of the eight letters to each day. Wish me luck and pray that my toe does not get worse.

That's it, good night and Buen Camino.     S_ _ _ _ _ _ _ !

Today I will place the stones at Cruz de Ferro on my way to Molinaseca a very difficult seventeen mile walk.

LFirst last night.  I am in the cafe getting online and having a beer. There is a couple siting nearby, it's the Irish guy I almost had a conversation with two days ago before being interrupted by the woman who asked me what my room rate was at the roadside Hotel and Casino. We start to chat and immediately I know this is a guy I want to get to know. He introduces himself, his name is Peter and his wife is Charlotte. They are originally from Ireland but moved to New Zealand nearly forty years ago. He tells me that Inspite of the time in New Zealand he will not give up his Irish accent nor will she. Why should they, it's just fun to listen to them speak.

Sitting with them is Sophie. I just assumed hat she was related because I did see her with them two days ago. I just thought that she was their daughter. When I ask they all burst out laughing. They met early on at the beginning or the Camino and jolkingly Peter says we just can't get rid of her. Sophie is from Ottawa Canada and she is walking the Camino alone. She and her husband had planned years ago to walk the Camino but she retired and he could not so here she is. They are all Catholics and are devoted. Peter and Charlotte have five children but pre-deceased by one. They also have seven grandchildren. They left Belfast because there was just no future and the political issues made living there dangerous and not a place you would want to raise a family.

Sophie has three children, twin girls who are twenty five and a younger son who is as she puts it helpless without her. She goes on to say that he is emailing her constantly asking how to do his laundry. Bottom line is that they are all good people able to laugh at themselves and they see the Camino the same way I do. They are on a spiritual journey. 

A short time later a younger couple walks into the bar ,we are all staying at the Hostal. Peter, Caharlotte and Sophie know them. They introduce me, it's Tim and Agnes. Actually  her name I can't pronounce but it's Agnes in Polish. They live in Chicago and he is a drop dead ringer for the actor Sam Shepard. Even sounds like him. They too are  Catholic and not taken with themselves. He sits I get introduced and he immediately buys everyone what they are drinking ... I like this guy. He's fifty nine and retired from the personal jet services business. I think he did it well. 

At 6:45 Peter gets up and says that Mass will be starting in fifteen minutes so let's go. Come on Jim we want to get a seat. We all go across the street to the Chapel. It's spectacular. Mass is in both Spanish and English. I do get to take one picture after the Mass ends which I'll send. Afterwards it's back to the Hotel for the pilgrim's dinner. The food was okay but the Company is much better.

There is some conversation about the next days walk to Molinaseca. I don't say much but I know it's a very difficult day up to Cruz de Ferro and much more difficult on the downside from the top. Lots of Sapnish Potatoes, about the same or worse than the Hill of Forgiveness out from Pamplona. On the way up to the Cruz de Ferro it's a long uphill trek with some shade. I left this morning at nine thirty and it was cool. Perfect weather conditions. I pass a number of groups on the up hill portion, they are struggling. They don't know it yet but this is the easy part. On the way down from the top you will get a real test.

I reach the top, the Cruz de Ferro and as I come up the final hill I can see about twenty pilgrims standing under the Cross. Where did they come from? Then I see the Bus parked in a lot across the street from Cross and I get it. A large group with the Donkey service is here. Okay I'll just wait until they have all taken their pictures and then I will take care of my business. I could use a break anyway, it was a long hard uphill climb.

The group moves on but many of them are walking toward the Camino, no packs but it does appear that they are going to walk down from the top. That should be interesting. I get all of the stones placed and take a few pictures and I'm ready to go. The weather is still very nice, cool, which is helping. In a short fifteen minutes I reach the first roadblock. There is a traffic jam on the hill. It's very steep and it's covered in Spanish Potatoes of the very large variety. There are a number of people buched together trying to figure out each step. The problem is that the trail is very narrow so we now have a single file group that stretches out and I'm now trying to figure out how to get around them without adding to what is already a very hard downhill section. While trying to get around them I'm walking in areas that have more rocks and I end up smashing my right foot into a very large deeply imbedded rock. I know I've done some damage because it hurts immedtsly and is not subsiding. For sure I will be losing another toe nail. Hopefully it's not worse.

This downhill challenge goes on for hours. The toe is getting worse and I'm going slowly. In total today will take me eight and a half hours. That includes the time at the Cruz de Ferro, several stops for a break and traffic jams. Thats traffic jams plural because I run into another group with about two miles to go. The last three miles is really treacherous.

On of my breaks I meet up with Tim and Agnes. They are taking it slow, Agnes is having a minor relapse of whatever it was she had in Astorga which kept her in bed. This is not a good walking day to feel sick on. They are not sure where they will stop or if they will try to get a taxi if she does not improve. I did not see them again . 

I walk into Molinaseca at about 6:00. The last two hours near the bottom of the hill the temperature went up quickly and it's now hot. I'm worn out and my right foot has a serious toe issue. I walk to my Hostal. I walk all the way to the end of town and I have still not found it. I ask an old man siting on the steps of a house and he tells me to keep going. I am out of town. I check in and the clerk tells me that the dining room will be closed and the cafe is also closed but he does point out that I can walk back into town to get someting to eat. Thanks.

The room is okay but the wifi is not working. It is now 5:42 am as I write this, the wifi is finally working. I will send a note to the travel people about this a accommodation. I get everything taken care of and when I do take off the right Limo and the toe is a mess. It's swollen and I have a blister on the end of the toe. I will need to get to the pharmacy to buy bandages for this problem.

On on my way back into town and I run to Peter, Charlotte and Sophie. They all are worn out from today and all agree that it was even tougher than the first two days. We agree to meet for dinner back at their Hostal fir the pilgrim dinner. I'm off to the pharmacy.

The toe is a problem I just don't know yet how big a problem because tomorrow my walk to Villafranca  will be more than nineteen miles! One of the three longest days on the Camino. This is not a good time for a Psssenger problem. It's now 6:09 am, I need to pack and get going while it's cooler and most of all I need to see how the toe us going to impact today's long walk.

Good night or morning. Burma Camino.

On my way to Rabanal a dusty walk of about fourteen miles. Dinner with some fun people!

Okay there is much to cover but I'll do my best. First let me apologize for all of the photos. I can't keep track of them so if there are duplicates just know that I'm not doing it on purpose. I have so many I did not send. I'm also challenged by the list creation so just know that I'm doing my best.

My night in Astorga could not have been better. I'm feeling pretty good, the passengers seem happy and I dot have any other physical issues as long as you don't count just being sore and tired. Given the fact that I have watched a number of people drop out because of injury I'm feeling quite blessed right now.

Dinner at Restaurante Serrano was on my must achieve this for this second Camino. I went through the schdule several times well in advance to be sure that I would not be in Astorga on a Sunday. It's the only day Serrano is not open. If I can't get a table that's okay but I know I can't get one if they are closed. I had the Foie Gras which was prepared in the same way it as two and a half years ago. I know because when looked at the I see the Foie Gras and I ask how it's prepared? The Chef's sister tells me that he only prepares it one way because that's the way he likes it and so do the customers. Great. 

For the main course I ask for suggestions and she tells me that he is preparing a roasted lamb and that it is one of his most popular dishes. I'm in, the lamb it is. Both dishes are just incredible and the 2011 Malleleolus was perfect. I say my good by's and return to the Hotel. The Catherdal and the Gaudi are now lit up and it completely changes the look of both. 

I get a good nights sleep and I leave around 9:30. No rush it's a short walk of about fourteen miles. There is a hill test today, not terribly significant elevation change but a long hill and it's completely in the sun. The walk takes me through a few interesting villages where I stop a few times for a cold drink. 

One of my other items on my "things to do list" is to stop at the pilgrims chapel which Is a little more than a mile out of Astorga. The church is managed by volunteers and is financed by donations. Most pilgrims will enter and make a donation and then have their credential stamped and spend a few minutes in the chapel. Well on my first Camino I had a real problem and I had to return to Astorga. In the end I visited the church again on my second departure from Astorga that day and I had the volunteer hold my credential while I took her picture, I took the same picture again today.

I'm one day away from the Cruz de Ferro where the stones will be placed. There are now ten stones. Rebbica, a friend of Robin's father passed away in July and Robin sent me an email that Rebbica's mother passed away just two days ago so I will now place both names on a single stone. One other addition is a stone for Mary Alice, Robin's mother who fell last week and has not been feeling well ... She needs a stone.

I have two stones that have made the entire journey. Betty Young, Beth Morre's mother who passed away two years ago and the stone for Lori with two names on it, her sister Diane who died as an infant and Jeri her mother who just had surgery after a bad accident.  All of the other stones are from the Camino. The question I was asked is how do you pick them? I don't they pick them, they pick me. There are countless stones I'm walking on every step on the Camino. As I am walking and looking down at the stones suddenly one will just look right and it will stop me and I'll pick it up and put it in my back pack. All shapes, sizes and colors. The only stone I was trying to find was a stone in the shape of a kidney. I saw many but none picked me. I do have one I think is close to the shape.

So with that I will sign off and take the stones to their place at the Cruz de Ferro. I had dinner tonight with some really fun and nice people. We all went to the pilgrim mass before dinner in the village's stunning little chapel which is more than six hundred years old. I have a photo. More on that tomorrow but now I need to get some rest. 

My guide book says "today we head up through the pass of Iragoto the highest point of our whole journey". It will be a steep ascent up to the Cruz de Ferro and it comes early. The distance to our next destination, Molinaseca will be sixteen and a half miles. I am now within one hundred and fifty miles of Santiago. Seven hundred thousand steps taken, three hundred thousand remain. 

Good night. Buen Camino.

I am on my way to Astorga and the Gaudi. It will be a long walk in the sun but in the end there is Serrano!

Before I tell you tell you about my nearly twenty mile walk today let's go back to last night. I arrive at the Hotel and Casino in Villanangos. It's been long, hot, flat and just not very attractive. There are some points of interest along the way. The bridge across the river and into La Virgen Del Camino is a surprise. But other than that it's just flat, dusty and noisey every step of the way.

I arrive at the Hotel and when I walk into the bar, cafe, card room and front desk I'm ready to get things taken care of and get into the shower. The walk to day to Villadangos is short, only about thirteen miles. Without shade is feels much longer. I have my credential stamped and head to my room. Of course it's on the third floor. It's a small room like most a Camino rooms are but there is a large window which will work well for the laundry.

I'm back downstairs and I order a small beer and decide to go outside and sit and watch the trucks fly by. The bar is noisey and the bar stools are not what I want right now. The little tables outside do have more comfortable chairs. I sit at a table  next to a white haired gentlemen and he asks me where I'm from? I tell him and he tells me that he lives in New Zealand but that he's from Ireland. I'm about to ask him a follow up question when this women , yes an American, just steps between us and asks me directly "what did they charge you for your room?" Before I can say anything she turns and asks the Irish guy the same question. She is obviously not with him and I'm not going to get to know her. I stand up and simply tell her "I don't know" and move back inside. I'm not spending another minute with this person. She sits at the Irish guys table and I just say to him "nice talking with you".

I'm now convinced more than ever that I will not be sitting at the pilgrim dinner table tonight. I purposely go to the dining room late so that I'm certain the pilgrim table will be on course two so there is no way I would have to sit there. I made a good decision because Miss "what did you pay  for your room" is at the table. 

I sit at a small table next to a couple. We start to talk and it turns out they lived in Westport Connecticut and he commuted to New Your about the same time I did. He tells me that they moved to Del Mar which is just south of us. Nice people. They are taking it slow, she has blisters. They will walk half way to Astorga tomorrow and will reach Santiago about four days after I do.

I decide to get up early to start the nearly 20 mile walk to Astorga to get in as many miles as I can in the cooler temperatures. I walk out at about 7:15. It's dark, really dark. The good news is there are practically zero turns today so I don't need to keep searching for the yellow arrows because if I did there would be a problem in this darkness. It is chilly, which is good and it will be great walking conditions for about the first three hours. After that it's warm and dusty.

After covering about fifteen miles I finally reach the Cruceiro Santo Toribio. One of the most famous places pilgrims leave their stones. There are two young Germans there asking for donations to help them build  a new Hostal on the Camino. I make a donation and he helps by taking my picture at the Cruciero. While this point does tell you that you are near Astorga, which you can see below the hill it's still about five miles to the city center. I'm already tired but I've made good time. The goal is to clean up and go to the Restaurante Serrano to try to get a table for dinner. I was there for dinner two yeas ago and it's still one of the best restaurants I have been to. It's now famous and I'm told it could be tough to get a table especially on Saturday night. I will walk over at about 6:00 to see if it's possible.

First to the Gaudi which is almost directly out my Hotel's front door. The Gaudi and the Cathedral sit side by side and are both very impressive. However once you step into the Gaudi you immediately know that you are about to see a building like no other building you have ever set foot in. Up the winding stair case to multiple views of the alters and the collection of crosses. I take a number of photos but I can't do it justice. I'm sure that if you went on line there might be a better photo summary of the Gaudi. It's just stunning.

I am now on my way to the Camino shop but it's closed until six so I just sit at a table outside the cafe in the center square. Mark from Nova Scotia stops by and we catch up. They are staying in the Albegue which has 160 beds. He tells me that Mike and Teresa from Long Beach had to leave earlier than planned because Teresa had a bad ankle sprain and could not go on.

I decide to go to Serrano now to see if I can get in. I walk down the narrow street to the restaurant and as I do the back door opens. There is a small car there and a young guy in a Chefs White coat. I excuse myself and I ask him if he is the chef? He smiles and says yes and I ask if his sister and mother are still also working in the restaurant? I now have his attention. I go on to tell him that I had dinner here two years ago and that I still remember that I had the best Foie gras I have ever had. He is smiling and shakes my hand. I ask him if it's possible to get a table for one tonight? He speaks near perfect English and says" for you my friend, yes. I will tell my sister. He asks my name, shakes my hand again and says eight o'clock." I'm in!

I will close now and finish tomorrow . I'll just say that dinner was great just as I had expected. Tomorrow a short but difficult walk of thirteen miles to Rabanal Del Camino. My new poles will get their first taste of the Camino. Good night. Buen Camino.

It's my lucky day ... I get to meet Miss USA's brother! I think he is her brother but he's different, he's coachable.

I will get to Mr. USA momentarily but first my time in Leon. I think I covered the walk to Leon. Short at less than twelve miles, flat, but it's warm. It's a perfect tourist day at the plaza around the Cathedral and all of the narrow little streets with one little specialty shop after another. The benefit of having been here before is that I know where to go for the things I need. There is a Norstrom type store where I can buy a couple of things I need which will let me get rid of those that have seen their last days. 

I also know where the Camino shop is. I need desperately to buy some new socks. The old ones are really shot from the sink washing. Let's just say that I have not been using any softener. So I run my errands including the purchase of soap powder. It only comes in a large box so I will measure enough to take care of the last twelve days, yes that's whats left, twelve days to Santiago.

I have a salad at the Hotel for dinner but have to wait until 8:30 although it's supposed to be a open at 8:00. No problem, but I have a call with Robin at 9:00 my time, noon her's which had to be pushed back. There are only three of us in the Hotel dining room but that does not matter. We will still go at a speed which is just a bit slower than most of us might expect. All good. Robin and I  have a nice call although her Mom, Mary fell and is still dealing with a nagging cough. Robin is also dealing with jet lag and getting things at the house squared away. 

So it's Friday morning and I'm awake early and decide to skip the Hotel's carb fest and get started early. It's going to be warm today but when I step out of the Hotel it is really very chilly. It's also refreshing  because the Hotel was really warm, too hot for me but I can't change it.

As I leave Leon it's really a completely different view. The crowds are gone, the cafe's furniture lining all of the streets are stored and I get to see a completely different Leon from the one I have seen both yesterday and on the first Camino. It's nice, it's peaceful and the sun is rising. I'm on my way to Villadangos del Paramo, a walk of about fourteen miles on the road route. Not pretty and it is very noisey. I chose this route because it would be different from my first Camino.

When you leave Leon you will first walk about five and a half miles to La Virgen Del Camino where you must choose which route to take, Mazarife or Del Paramo. It is also important to note that if you choose the Mazarife route this will be your last chance to buy water or whatever you need for the next eight miles.

Initially I am less than happy with my choice but I have decided to go as many new routes as I can this time regardless of the view. The route is as was described in the guide book. I really don't care. The last four days have been long, flat and hot. So who cares if there is another. There is a benefit to this route. There will be more places to stop and rest.

I planned on going to La Virgen del Camino where the "Yogi" is located because I have been to the little cafe at that point before. If you read the first blog it's the place where I showed the Vivian ( our cat) video to the mother and she went nuts. I had to replay it several times. I get there and Mom is in exactly the same place. I order but don't attempt to explain that I've been there before. I have breakfast and move on to the road route which will be about eight miles. I am making good time. The route while noisey is flat and dead straight. I'm about four miles into the road route when I reach San Miguel. I walk past a small cafe with a patio and as soon as I am fifty feet past I decide to go back, take a break. If I'm lucky they might have wifi. It turns out that's its really a nice little place. Impeccably clean and organized. I drop my back pack and go to the counter. I'm the only customer. I order I short beer. It's about the size of a half bottle. The little lady behind the counter hands me the beer and I give her a two Euro coin. She puts my change in a little dish and I say thank you and push back the dish. 

I sit and then ask "wifi ?". She quickly points to the wall where there is an eight digit password posted. Here is what I have learned about the Camino. If you need help, want to use their bathroom or their wifi, you should first purchase something, anything, before you do any of these three things. It's really simple. 

The beer I ordered is a fraction more than a Euro so my "tip" is nearly one hundred percent. Big deal. The wifi is working and I'm starting to send photos from my departure from Leon this morning when the little women brings me a dish of Sosnish rice with a small shrimp and a mussel. That's nice, and it's good. See how it works?

With that out of nowhere this guy bursts into this tiny cafe and shoves his guide book in the little women's face ( the same one i have as well as just about everyone else) and in a very aggressive tone demands to know where some Hotel he's looking for is located. The women speaks very little English and when she does not respond he gets angry and more aggressive. I've had enough. 

I get up and get between them and simply say to him "calm down". I go on to tell him that whatever is wrong I will try  to help him. He immediately goes back to the same voice and aggressiveness. I put up my hand and just tell him to stop. If you want help you need to calm down. Again I ask what's the problem? He finally slows down and proceeds to tell me that he cannot find his Hotel which should be nearby. He shows me his guide book and points to the location. He is at least five miles short of where he needs to be. I point that out to him and he starts to go back to being Miss USA's brother and once again I give him the stop sign. He starts to tell me that his wife, sitting outside on the patio cannot go any further.

Okay. Once he calms down I tell him that first you need to order someting. He looks at me with that "what" look on his face. Again I tell him to order someting and we will find a way to get him to his Hotel. He then turns to me and says okay I'll have a beer and my wife will gave a cup of tea. Great, now I'm working here. I turn to the little lady and order both the beer and the tea and she gets right to it. I turn to him and tell him to give me five Euro. He looks at me, hesitates but reluctantly gives me a five Euro note. The little women puts both the beer and the tea on the counter and I hand her the five Euro note and when she try's to give me the change I just say thank you. That's about a one hundred percent tip but it's also about two dollars. 

I grab the tea and head out to the patio where Mr. USA's wife is sitting. It's  no wonder she can't go any longer. She's dressed lke it's going to snow and it's at least 80 degrees. I simply explain that they are at least five miles from where they want to go and then ask if they want to have the women call a taxi? I point out that a taxi will get them to where they want to be in less than twenty minutes. There is no hesitation, the wife says " yes, please yes". Mr, USA does not get a vote and I go back inside and with that universal hand signal where you hold your hand next to your ear like you are getting a call or calling someone else I just say " taxi ". She says simply, Si. That's it. In less than ten minutes a taxi arrives and takes them to wherever they are going. I don't know their names, he never thanked me and they are gone. 

I am back inside and I order a small beer and the little women just smiles at me and then brings me a little sausage on a small piece of bread. I pay her and then return to the Camino. I'm actually pleased that I took the road route today. I had a Camino experience. 

I arrive at my Hotel located right on the freeway at 3:30. It's not the Four Seasons. My only hope now is that if I decide to go to the Pilgrim dinner that I don't get stuck sitting next to Mr. USA. My goal is to get to bed early because tomorrow my walk to Astorga will be nearly twenty miles! The longest distance of any of my schduled walks. 

 When I arrive in Astorga tomorrow I will have 164 miles to Santiago. Good night and Buen Camino.

  

The villiage of Mansilla de las Mulas is sold out so I'm staying off the Camino in a place about a mile and a half away from the center of the village. My dinner partner is in tears.

I will explain the dinner thing shortly but first Mansilla de las Mular. 

I don care about the location. No big deal I will just chill out and eat at the Hostal. I really don't want to go to the pilgrim dinner group but there is no choice. I arrive at 4:00 so I have plenty of time to get things done and rest. Dinner is at seven thirty. There are only five rooms so it will be a small group. 

I go down to the dining room early and get a glass of wine and sit outside in the backyard. The weather is perfect. I take a seat and just like that there is a dog in my lap with a big stick in his mouth. It turns out his name is Pepper. He the owner's son's dog. He is completely black which I guess has something to do with his name. Photo on the way soon.

The son comes out and apologizes for Pepper bothering me. But I just let him know that it's okay.  Pepper and I play fetch for about fifteen minutes before I get called in for dinner. There are five others for dinner. Four people are sitting at a table for four and there is one women sitting alone. There is another table for one. It would be the right thing to do so I ask if she wants company and she says yes. How awkward would it have been if she said no.

She is from New Zealand, her name is Linda and she started her Camino five days before me and has had some blister related delays. She tells me that soon after she started the Camino she realized that she was not as well prepared as she thought she was. The first day over the mountain took her two days. She had to stop at the half way point and beg her way into an Albergue or try to find transportation back to St. Jean, she could not go any further. She then tells me that her two son's both think she has lost her mind doing this Camino thing but have now become supporters and are encouraging her. She now feels much better about what she is doing.

We go through the usual Camino chat and she asks about why I'm doing it again? I explain. She says she regrets that she is not haveing a Spirtual Camino. Then she decides to tell me that her younger brother recently died of Cancer and that she is bringing a stone for him. I can't stop myself and I suggest that her journey is already a spiritual one otherwise why would she be carring a stone? She reaches for her purse looking for a tissue and starts to cry! The group of four are thinking who knows what. I can't imagine what they think I've done. The son comes out with the soup and stops and just looks at me. I just look back at him and shrug. What am I supposed to do. She gathers herself and says to me "your right". The conversation switches to the belief that the Camino is broken into three parts as you make your way to Santiago. The first third is the physical, the second is mental, and the last is spiritual. 

She is fine from that point on and the discussion shifts to where to leave the stone. I'm selling the Cruz de Ferro as it is the most famous location for leaving stones on the Camino. I think she has decided to leave the stone there. That causes me to think .... Why am I selling the Cruz de Ferro to others while trying to decide where to leave the majority of the stones I'm carrying? The Cruz de Ferro is the best choice.

So. in addition to the two stones I'm carring to the Cruz de Ferro for Beth and Lori I have decided that I will take all of the stones to the Criz de Ferro. I believe that I will reach the Cruz de Ferro on Monday on my way to Molinaseca. 

Dinner is fine and I'm back in my room by nine. I am a sleep quickly and then wake in the middle of the night, blog , emails etc and then back to sleep usually until 7:30. The walk on Thursday is to Leon. There us no great way to describe it but to say that it's along the highway, twelve miles,  noisey and dangerous at times. The good news is that it's a bit less than twelve miles. The only additional drawback today is that it's hot. Hot not warm. But at leas it's not raining.

I leave early and just go right at it. There is no need to delay. Leon will be one of the last major cities before Santiago, the other being Astorga. I will send photos of Leon as quickly as I can. The Hotel's wifi system will not let me use two devices with the same email address. Don't ask, I don't understand either. 

Tomorrow I will walk to Villas angus Del Paramo. Fourteen miles and fairy flat. There are actually two destinations fir today. The other is Villar de Mazarife which is where I stayed on my first Camino. I'm trying when possible to change it up so I'm going to Paramo. It will be warm but I'm in no hurry. I have two goals today. The first is to just get there and the second is to try to avoid making anyone cry at the pilgrim dinner.

I will  send the photos as soon as I can. Good night, Buen Camino.

Today is my twenty first day of walking to Santiago de Compestella, I have about two hundred and twenty five miles to go.

I'm not really sure about the distance remaining but I think my estimate is close. Actually my guide book says I'm closer. If my calculations are correct I have now taken about five hundred and seventy five thousand steps of the Camino's one million steps to Santiago. I will look more closely and get a better estimate when I post again.

Today is another long walk with little shade just like the past three days. I make good time and arrive at this very small town searching for the Hotel with seven rooms. I hate to say this but there is nothing about this village which can be described as an attraction ... Nothing. 

I walk half way through the village and find my accommodation. It's a little Hotel with seven rooms. Owned and operated by a husband and wife team that truly works hard to make sure that you have a memorable stay in an otherwise forgettable village.

There are ten of us for dinner. A group of five from Seattle, three of them are family, the parents and their son who has recently graduated from college. The other two from Seattle, a married couple who are friends of the family. A couple from North Carolina, a guy from New Mexico and a recently retired women from central California and me.

Dinner was good but there isn't much else to say about it. The conversation was mostly about the Camino and seemed to focus on which parts to skip and how to get things shipped ahead. The guy from New Mexico never spoke a word .. Not one.  With that I'll just say that at this juncture I may not be posting any blog updates more frequently than once every couple of days. I can't imagine anyone wanting to read this. 

I will post when and if something of interest crops up but will of course post the details of the placing of the stones. The fact is that the Camino I'm seeing today is very commercial and since my last walk has become a tourist event not the challenge of the pilgrims of the past.

Packing your bags to be picked up by the Donkey service, shipped to the next piace on the Camino which suits your willingness to push yourself is just a turnoff. I have now figured out why I don't see any of the same people. It's because very few of us are on the same Camino. When I was eating dinner the other night alone and Vickie invited herself to sit with me she shared with me that she left the Camino for three days to take a train to Paris and when she returned she just started back by jumping ahead five days to avoid one segment which was going to be difficult. It's no wonder that I don't see the same people.

On my first Camino I really got to know people very well. We all walked the same segments, suffered the challenges of the snow and more. At the end of each day we would all meet for dinner and celebrate that day's success together. We all shared the same experience and walked the same Camino. I'm not getting any of that now. For most of the people I'm meeting this is just a another morning walk around the neighborhood but when needed you can buy a boccidillo from a neighbor.

Today I left Hermanillos de la Calzada and the Hotel with seven rooms at 8:30 on my way to Mansilla de las Mulas.  It's a walk through a completely open space. No towns or villages, nothing. The walk is a distance of just a little more than fifteen miles. I walked alone for ten miles without a break passing just a few other pilgrims because the segment today was without any place to stop until the ten mile point. Was today a day where I saw a lot of pilgrims? No, actually very few. Why? Just to hard and just not as interesting so just skip it and go ahead to Leon? Probably.

The good news is that I continue to be motivated by all of the great people, family and friends who have been so generous in their support for my Walk for Water. That will overshadow any of the other feelings I'm having about this Camino and keep me just putting one foot in front of the other. Only about four hundred and twenty five this and steps to go!

So with that rousing summary I will sign off and most likely post again on Friday or Saturday. Good night and Buen Camino.

It's my lucky day! I run into Miss USA and nothing changed, absolutely nothing.

Before I fill you in on Miss USA let me first tell you two things. The first ... Do your remember the movie The Godfather ?  Of course you do. Do you remember the scene where Michael is trying to teach his new Italian wife to drive a car? That's where she says " Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Wednesday ... That's me when I woke up today. Completely unsure of what day it is. Counting on my figures from when I started I finally figure it out, it's Tuesday. I am going to walk to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos. The only town which has more letters in its name than people who live there. It's small, really small.

After I figure out where I am and what day it is I go for coffee. On my way I step outside to feel the weather. It's chilly. I check on line and it's 45 degrees but it will be a nice day and warm up to the mid 70's. I will adjust and then leave. I'm out early today. I step onto the Camino at 8:30. The walk today will be another seventeen miles but with more shade and opportunities to find food and water along the way.

The second thing I will share with you is that my editing is what it is. I often will post corrections several times within minutes of each other. It just depends on the time of day and just how tired I am.

As I head to the front door I move past all of the luggage ready to be picked up by the Donkey service and when I step outside there are at least a dozen people getting into their van to jump ahead to Sahagun, a farly large city. There is little eye contact with this group and I think I know why.

As I get started I here my name called from behind me. It's Michael and Red. They tell me about their good luck in getting a place to stay last night. When they inquired at the Auberge they are told that there was just a pre-paid cancellation of a private room and because it's late they get it for free. I private room with shower and access to the laundry. They look much better today than yesterday. 

On the subject of seeing others I have met over the last three weeks here's a quick update. I did see the couple from San Diego two days ago at a cafe, she has recovered and appears to be fine. I have not seen the lady from Denver who had to skip ahead several days because of blisters. Hopefully she serviced the storm. Mick, my Irish friend has not been seen since I last saw him taking a day off with a plan to continue on the next day. Given the condition of his feet I would have been shocked to see him. Perhaps we will meet again closer to Santiago. I did see one of the Canidan couples I had dinner with on the second night. They told me that one of the other guys from that night blew out a knee when he stepped badly on a large Spanish Potatoe. They have already flown back. Teresa and Mike from Long Beach are gone, they were on a partial Camino. I have not seen the couple from Scotland or the Nova Scotia people for a couple of days. Putin has been missing since the first week. Perhaps he is in Syria. Donna from Dan Point has not been seen. I have also not seen the young German walking for a blessing or Robert the Polish guy walking more than a thousand miles. But I did see Miss USA today. 

I walked without stopping to Sahagun before taking a break. That's about nine or ten miles. Im feeling fine and I will take a nice break before I go the last six or seven miles where there is nothing. I pick out a nice looking little pastry shop which has a patio and plastic chairs and tables. There are a number of pilgrims there who have made the same decision. 

I take off my backpack and place it against the wall and walk into the shop. Without any warning of any kind a women jumps right in front of me and shoves her iPhone in my face just holding it there and screams at me to "talk to the guy on the phone. I'm trying to make a reservation and he does not understand me. Do you speak Spanish". I am stunned. It's Miss USA. Once I gather myself and figure out what is happening I just looked at her and said " I don't speak Spanish". Without another word she just pushes past me out the door and starts to work the patio people.

I order my coffe and select a pastry. I will just sit inside and avoid this crazy women. I look outside and she is gone. She is across the street disrupting another group of people sitting on another patio at a different cafe. Obviously Miss USA is oblivious about how others see her behavior. I would like to know why she is on the Camino but frankly I hope to never to see her again.

The walk is long and it gets warm. There are very few reasons to take many photos although I do take a few. I am getting closer to Leon. That is where I can seriously start thinking about Santiago. Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Wednesday .... Tomorrow, whatever day it is I will be on my way to Mansilla de las Mulas a dustance of fifteen miles over a farly flat trail. Good night, Buen Camino.

It's Monday and it marks my half way point ... But first a walk of seventeen miles with no shade and the first stop for anything is at the ten mile mark.

I leave at 9:30. It will be a long day, a walk of seventeen miles in the sun ... No shade and almost nowhere to rest. I remember this section. It's just boring and long. The first stop will not come until about the tenth mile. No water, nothing available, you must be prepared. I will take very few pictures today because they would all look the same. Miles and miles of farmland or endless rows of sunflowers. 

The look ahead is the same hour after hour even watching the other pilgrims. I watch them if for no other reason but to measure my pace. I pass people while others pass me. It's not a race. You often greet the same people over and over again with "Buen Camino". 

So I'm walking for about an hour and a catch up with a young couple who I have seen before but not met. As I get alongside I ask where are you from? They are from California. Michael is from Brentwood ( the place where the OJ thing happened) and Alexis she's from Santa Barbara, Montecidio actually. She tells me to call her Red because she does have fire engine Irish Red hair. My mothers nickname was Red, same reason.

We walked together for about an hour. Nice kids. He is twenty eight and she is a bit younger. They have been walking in Europe for four months and have no plans beyond the Camino. I never ask and it never comes up ... You know that thing we all are familiar with .. A job. While I envy their ability to stay in strange places without any idea where the next place will be, sleeping on floors, I want to ask them ... What's next? Surely this can't be a lifelong strategy but I'm just not going to go there. I don't want to be seen as some old judgemental guy stuck in his own beliefs. But truth be told I would really like to know how they see this turning out.

There is far more to our conversation which for me was foreign to anything I'm accustomed with but it would take far to long to even scratch the surface. I am about two miles away from my destination and I stop at an Albergue to get something and to use their wifi before I arrive at my accommodation because it does not have wifi. I know this because II have stayed here before. There is no other choice.

I arrive and I meet Bill from Alaska who is the only other person who walked to Burgos on that terrible day. I know only because we were together. We agree to meet for the pilgrim's dinner at 6:30. Perfect because it's now only 5:00. 

I remember this place for a number of reasons not the least of which Is that when you arrive they will wash your clothes for only five Euro. I used the service the last time but did not know they also would dry them for an additional charge so I ended up out back hanging all my stuff on the clothesline. I have that picture and it's a great Camino memory. 

That was then and this is now. I have learned my lesson. I ask about both washing and drying when I check in and yes they will do both for ten Euro. I'm in! As an added benefit of staying In one of the only six private rooms they now have wifi! Wow this is turning into the Four Seasons. I sign up for both. I check into my room and quickly bring my laundry back to the front desk and they tell me it will be finished after dinner at 7:00.

So I get to chill out, read some emails and then meet Bill for dinner. The food is okay. Bill has a badly swollen ankle but says he will just be fine. He is one of those guys who everyone would like. Just a nice guy. Great attitude, always smiling. He asks if I think the Camino changes people .. Or me? I tell him yes and then go on to tell him the meaning of BC Jim and AC Jim and he is just blown away. He loves the idea and agrees with the concept and will bring it back with him to Alaska. He goes on to say that he believes that those days when it really gets tough are the days you will remember most. He then says that he will always remember me because we shared that really hard day together and that is what makes the Camino special. I agree.

He leaves much earlier than I do in the morning because he does not have reservations so I may or may not see him for a few days. He tells me that he is planning on staying in Leon for a couple of days to celebrate his birthday ... He will be 77. Walked the worst day, has a swollen ankle, no reservations, no complaints, they just don't make them this way anymore. 

Tomorrow another long walk of seventeen miles to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos. I hope you are all well. Good night and Buen Camino.

The purpose of the Stones and the Camino de Santiago de Compestella .

There a number of historical reasons for Pilgrims to carry and leave stones on the Camino. Many are actually carried for others who are not on the journey. You may also bring one for yourself.

If you recall just a couple of days ago I shared with you a conversation I had with a young German man who told me that he was walking the Camino as a sacrifice which at the end in Santiago may, he prayed, produce a blessing. In his case he wants the blessing to remove the conflict between his sister and brother and in doing so bring all of the family back together. I agree with this interpretation.

It is also true that a pilgrim can bring a stone for the departed in an effort to lay the stone and ask for that persons forgiveness of sin and that person will then have eternal peace. I also agree with that.

I also believe that a pilgrim can place a stone along the way and ask for His help in making 

a difficult situation improve, a cure or allowing that person and his or her family peace while the trial continues. I agree.

So with that let me share with you a little about the stones I am carrying. I should also point out that I recieved a request just last night for another stone which has not been selected.

I am currently carring seven stones for eight people. One of the stones has two names on it as they are related. The stones being carried for those who have departed include a friend of Robin who's Dad Merlin, pasted away a few months ago at the age of 95. Cherie, Robin's cousin's Donald's wife who lost a tough battle with Cancer shortly after retiring. 

A stone from home for Betty Young, Beth Moore's mother who passed away just two years ago this month. Another stone from home for Lori. It has two names on it, her sister Diane who died as an infant and for her Mom, Jeri who has recently had a difficult accident. 

Three other stones for those in need of a medical or personal blessing. Bill Howe who is back in Cape Cod and facing a challenging life change. For Bill a blessing of peace in the process. A stone for Johnny Mac, a friend who has been waiting for a kidney for more than two years and has never once complained about it, for John the blessing of a new kidney. The stone which will be added is for Ron Nichols my niece's father in law who is fighting the good fight against cancer ... A blessing of a cure.  

And last but not least for my younger brother Rick who has Prostate Cancer currently under observation, a blessing of a cure or at worst a life long dormant condition. 

So there you have the story of the stones I am carring. As I place the stones I will update everyone. I know where at least three of the stones will be placed, the others I'm working on.

Buen Camino.

The passengers are recovering and today's short walk of 13 miles will help.

I slept all night for a change and it was at a good time. I'm a bit worn out, just sore. Today is a walk of 13 miles and the terrain will be dry and flat. The weather forecast is good as well. I go to have the usual carb fest and I wish I could say it was not but that's what is was.

Dinner last night was very good. I ate alone because my hotel is out of the way from the Camino and I don't want to walk back to the center of town. The passengers need a break. The only others eating at the Hotel is a group of ten women and two men. They are German. I've seen them before and my best guess is that one of the men is a Minister because I saw them after dinner a couple of nights ago and he was in front of the group lecturing about something but i don't think he's a tour guide. At dinner he sits at the head of their long table and holds court. Not what I would expect from a tour guide.

Surprise, surprise! The food is excellent. I sat there for about an hour taking my time before heading back to the room to finish the blog and to send out the photos. I went to the Farmacia on my way into town and doubled up on bandages and foot cream. After I take care of all of the passenger need's I'm dead to the world but I did get the blog posted by around 11:00. I did my best on the proof read but if I missed a bunch of errors please cut me some slack. I sleep all night and don't wake until 8:00 which is a near record for me. When I get out of bed the passengers are very quite. After breakfast and packing I head for the Camino.

When I first walk out of the Hotel I am surprised by the weather. It's foggy and cool, almost cold. I stop and make a change. The head scarf is now on duty. The weather actually is perfect for walking. It's stays that way for about the first hour and then it starts getting warmer. Another wardrobe change is needed. Speaking of wardrobes I also reduced some weight today. I left behind the go to vote shirt, it's just to heavy and a worn out pair of shorts. There will be others soon.

The walk today is really easy. Most importantly it's easy on the passengers. Flat, dry and very few Spanish Potatoes. I have lots of water and an apple so I'm good to go. I'm about half way to Carrion when I passed a young couple. Buen Camino and of course where are you from? They are from San Francisco. He started in St Jean France and she joined him in Burgos. I asked what the thought about the storm and they said that they just stayed in their hotel for three days and skipped ahead. Am I the only fool who walked that day? No, because I walked with Bill from Alaska. As I am starting to move ahead  of them I also notice they have those lunch only packs. Is it me or are we all just getting soft? These two are in their twenty's. While I also agree that you do the Camino your own way there may be limits.  Would it count if you drive the 500 miles? I think that's going to far afield of what the real meaning of walking the Camino is. Am I wrong?

I'm about half way and I can hear a loud voice behind me.  He is getting closer. Finally he catches me. He is a big guy. He asks me where I am from and I tell him California. He says oh Californis loves the Camino. He then asks me if I have seen the film Six Ways to Santiago? Yes I have. His next question is what did I think of it? I really did not think much of it but I'm not sure if he is connected so I just go neutral and say it was okay. 

He tells me that I will see the film differently when I complete the Camino. I then tell him this is my second Camino. He stops dead and just looks at me with a smile. Before he can say anything else I show him the picture I have on my phone of the snowstorm on day two and he just wants to hug me.

 He then turns around and tells me to take a picture of his backpack. It turns out that he has produced, written, directed and stared in his own Camino film which was shown at a film festival in Italy. The name of the film is, Are You A Pilgrim? A film by Gian D. Ceccato.

Before he moves on he tells me to buy the movie and write a review. The next time I see him he is working the crowd at a cafe. Interesting. I will send the photo and probably buy the film on Amazon just out of curiosity. There are very few photo options today because every mile looks exactly the same.

I arrive in Carrion in less than five hours just walking at a quite pace. Time to find the hotel and get things done. I'm at the very end of town so when I do finish I walk back to town and I bump into my friends from Nova  Scotia. They arrived here at 10:30 having left at 6:00am. They did find an Albergue which is managed by the Nuns. 

I'm walking along with them and there is a Camino store and it's open. Rare for a Sunday. I buy my new poles. We walk across the plaza and sit for a drink. They have not yet decided but they may go on to Rome and walk part of the Roman Camino! It all depends on her hip which has been a problem since coming down the mountain on day two. Mark on the other hand looks like he could walk home from here. I'm going back to my hotel to chill and get rid of the new poles. I also bought a Camino hat. Walking around in the Calloway hat just isn't cutting it. Because I'm so far from where they are staying its unlikely that we will meet for dinner so we agree that we will catch up down the road.

 

I return to my hotel and take care of the passengers, antiseptic, new bandages and the Spanish version of Bengay. My plan is to just stay here for dinner but when I check the menu is not all that great and dinner does not start until 8:00, it's now 5:30. So reluctantly I start to walk back to town. I find a little restaurant which I had dinner in before and take a seat. The waiter comes and I order. At that moment a women stands in front of me and says may I join you? It's the Camino and I say sure. Her name is Vickey and she is from New Zealand. We chat about today's walk and it leads always to the same place. She asks me ...why are you here? I explain it's trip number two and then go on to tell her why I'm here. Okay your turn. 

She says she does not know why she is here hesitates for just a moment and goes on to tell me that her daughter died at the age of seventeen months many years ago and then recently her sister, mother and her nephew all died in a short time. I think she just told me why she is here. With that the next thing I know is that Vickey has offered another women, who is alone, to join us and she does. Her name us Susan and she lives north of Portland. Susan than then tells us it's her second Camino. I ask when she did her first and she says May of 2013. I show her the picture on my phone of the snow storm and it turns out she started two days after me and just after the snow storm. Small world. We compare notes about this one and the first and both agree on several differences. She is using the Donkey service this time because of a back problem. 

Vickey is in sandles because her blisters are acting up. She also skipped the storm days days back around Burgos. It's a fact Alaska Bill and I are just not smart enough to come in out of the rain!

It's late, I am tired so I will say good night. Tomorrow the walk will be from Carrion to Terradillos a walk of nearly 17 miles. The good news is that it's flat but there will be no shade. Oh well, it is what it is. By the way tomorrow will also bring me to the half way point!

Buen Camino.

I could not find Mick last night for dinner, I'm looking in the wrong places ... He's in the Hospital.

More about Mick shortly but first lets wrap up yesterday. The walk between Hornillos del Camino and Castrojeriz is thirteen miles. I decide to go to the Pilgrim dinner because it's just fifty feet away at the restaurant which is part of the Hotel but in a seperate building. It also starts at 7:30 so I will not have to wait long. I can sit alone or just wing it. 

I'm on the patio and a couple comes over and sits with me. They are from Nove Scotia. My father was born there. They are just going from place to place starting at 6:00 am because they are competing for the beds at the Albergue's. It's crowded. I am booked all the way to Santiago so I'm spoiled but they use the Donkey service. It's just about time to go to dinner and another couple they have met stop by to say hello. Of course it always starts with the where are you from? It turns out that this second couple are from Long Beach just about forty miles from where we live. It's time fior dinner and they ask if I would like to join them. Yes that would be great. 

The food is not very good but the company is. Both couples were smart enough to stay in Burgos in a Hotel and miss the storm. I guess I'm just not that smart.  Bill and Karen from Novia Scotia have one son and a granddaughter who is three. It's there sons's second marriage. That comes up only because Ken says I have one son but I'm now working on my second daughter in law. Okay.

Mike and Theresa from Long Beach have two sons both in their thirty's, neither married and no interest in changing that. Theresa explains they are both Police Officers, one in Buena Park and one in Los Angeles. She goes on to say that they both date really nice women but it does not take long for the women to bailout because they know it's not going anywhere. So now it's my turn.

I start by telling them that we have three children, two girls both married to really terrific men and my son is engaged to be married to a really beautiful young lady in February. The the debate starts about which is more difficult to raise .. The boys or the girls? Of course because they only have boys they are focused on the way boys just don't seem to grow up as quickly as the girls but they believe that because of this the boys are more challenging.

My turn. I tell them that when the girls were in high school I was pretty rough on the boys they dated. Frankly I did not like them and I did not attempt to hide it. I didn't need any new friend as especially some sixteen year old dating my daughter.

I told them one of my favorite stories. I was rough on the boys, yes I don't debate that. We had a neighbor Mike, who was a really great guy who apparently heard some stories about how I treated the boys who were dating my daughters. He said to me that I should lighten up on them and things would be better.

Really Mike? I asked him this. Mike do you have a daughter? I knew he did not. He had a son who was  Ryan's age and they were friends. Of course he just looks at me because he knows that I know he does not have a daughter.

I asked him to pretend with me that it's a Friday night and it's six o'clock when the doorbell rings. You open the door and there he is ... Some sixteen year old who's dumpy car is now in your driveway leaking oil and he says " hi I'm here to pick up your Ming Vase. I will have it back safe and  sound to you at 11:00 tonight. I promise".

 

So Mike, let's pretend you actually have a Ming Vase. Are you going to hand it over to this sixteen year old stranger and hope he brings it back as promised at 11:00 pm? If the answer is no then consider this, the sixteen year old who rings my door bell wants me to give him my daughter! Not a Vase, my daughter. I won that debate easily and he never mentioned it again. I'll win that debate every time. Dinner was fun and I enjoyed the time with these new interesting peo

Now for Mick. I get up this morning and go to check out and have a cup of coffee. I also need water especially because of what lies ahead at the start of today's 16 mile walk to Fromista. The cafe does not have any bottled water or a power drink of any kind. That means I will need to go up the stairs and go backward for a short distance to get what I need at the market. I find what I need and I have my backpack off as I filling my permanent bottle and packing  away a small package of cookies for the trip. I look up and walking toward me is Mick.

He apologies for not making dinner and then tells me that he was at the Hopital having all his wounds lanced because they are infected. The damage was done on the first day when it took him twelve hours to go over the mountain. Not only did he push on but he abandoned his boots and was wearing tennis shoes that did not fit. His attitude is just amazing. He's making fun of what took place and tells me that he will be back on the Camino tomorrow walking with new boots that have not been broken in!  I won't try to describe what his feet look like. He is now wearing only flip flops under Doctors orders. It hurts just to look at his feet. His plan is to start walking each day at 4:00 am or earlier to get out of the heat. He says his problem stems from the fact that his boots were fine for Ireland but were not good in the heat. 

He tells me that he will catch up to me. He has my email and says he will let me know where he is. I wish him well and head to the Camino. The weather is good it's going to be warm. It's 10:00 when I get started. I can see it off in the distance, the hill. It's long and it's all uphill. I remember it and I know what I need to do. Take my time and stop as often as you feel the need to. I also remember the memorial at the top put up by the family of a Spanish Pilgrim who died of a heart attack at the top. I'm sure both Pat and John wil remember both the climb and the memorial.

I make it to the top without a problem taking about five stops just to catch my breath and not push it to hard. When I get to the top I really feel good. I take off my backpack and sit and drink some water. There is also a young Spainard selling fruit and snacks at the top. I buy an apple. Just about everyone wants to take the picture looking back to get a sense of what the elevation change was. I am taking a couple of photos when a guy who just reached the top stops and asks me if I would like to have him take my picture with the village of Castrojeriz down below as a backdrop. He takes the picture which I will include in today's photos. I make a comment that it's a pretty tough hill and he says yes but wait until you do it when you are 76! He's German, with his wife and two friends all about the same age. Amazing.

The balance of the day's walk is fairly flat but long and hot. The trail is not in good condition and it's warming up. I will soon arrive at the village of Itero de la Vega the last chance to get water and anything else for the next four hours. I stop and order a boccidillo and a Coke Zero. The Coke Zero is fine the boccidillo is not. It's all bread and it's not today's. I just leave it and return to the Camino. They also had wifi but it's not working. I get about four miles away and it the dawns on me ... I left my poles in the cafe. I did not need them because it's flat and because of that I just never realized in time to go back to get them. I will find a new pair of poles. Tomorrow is a day where the poles won't be needed so that's good. Okay if you are keeping score put the poles in the forgotten or lost column! 

That's it for now. I'm really tired and the passengers are not well. I need to rest. Good night and Buen Camino.

Okay I'm not missing in action ... It's just a lack of wifi. I'm on my way to Castrojeriz a walk of about thirteen miles.

I have no reason to leave early today . Today is a relatively short walk with only one real uphill challenge which comes early but is not significant. Having said that the climb is worthy of the poles to be engaged. My feet are killing me. The blisters are under contro, they are just sore and today's walk won't help. The weather is about as good as it can be but the trail is a mess.

I am only about a mile from the start and I just can't convince myself that I have packed my sleeping device. It's driving me crazy. I have to stop and look in my backpack. If I did not pack it I can turn back, it's only a mile or so. I unpack and I do have it. I double check all of my critical items, passport, credit cards, cash, my credential and all is good but ... I knew I left someting and I was correct. I forgot my bungey cords, aka the clothes line. Not critical, I'm not going back and adding two more miles for a bungey cord. If your keeping score you can add that to the list. Not bad. Its been several days since I lost anything.

Lots of erosion and occasional mud with of course the daily diet of Spanish Potatoes. It's just not possible to walk in a straight line. That also means you are always looking straight down. Today when you are looking down you really are not missing much. The walks first stop at Hontanas is nearly seven miles from the day's start. I need to eat something, resupply the water and get access to wifi to post yesterday's blog, check email and send photos.

It's getting warm so I will also need to make a wardrobe adjustment. Most of the walk today is in the sun, no shade until the final mile on the road into town. No other stopping points. The cafe and Albergue is doing a booming business. Lots of people checking in as I arrive. I'm not sure if it's in their plan or it's because the weather is good but it's crowded. I go inside and order a slice of pizza. It's different but good. I can now sit and use the wifi. I ask for the password and it's not as complex as some so I'm on line quickly.

There are a number of emails asking me where I am? Am I okay? Thanks, all is okay it's just a lack of wifi that's keeping me out of touch. I even got an email from Robim that she has called the Hotel to see if I chedked in or out. All is good, just really sore feet! Thanks for the concern.

I am supposed to meet Mick for dinner in town but that does not happen. The town is about a half mile long end to end. That's not a problem but there are two streets which run parallel to each other, one upper and one lower. Mick is staying at one of the Albergue's in town and there are a number of them. They are all over the place. I'm staying in a place on the lower road which is fifty four steps below the upper road. I know because I went up and down them a couple of times trying to find my hotel and I counted them. I'm not going up again in search of the Irishmen. I'll find him in Fromista or somewhere else on the Camino.

I check in and the room is fine with one weird addition. The shower has no curtain or shower door. The result is there is water everywhere. I'm thinking that the room below me may have a problem but it is what it is. 

I need to find a shop to buy socks. The three pair I have are getting long in the tooth and that's not going to help my passengers. I do find a shop and they do have one pair that will work for me. I then head back to the Hotel to check on the Pilgrim dinner. It's at 7:30 and the menu is okay so I sign up to avoid the steps to the upper road in search of an alternative.

As I'm walking out of the hotel which has wifi I get an email from Robim to turnoff my airplane mode on my phone and she will call me. We have not spoken since I left almost three weeks ago. Robin is in Germany on the final leg of her trip. She calls and we get a chance to catch up. All is good but we are both ready to go home. I will not be going for quite a while yet, she will be flying back on Monday. As it turns out next Mondsy is when I will reach the halfway point. 

It's time for dinner and I am seated with two couples, one from Nova Scotia and the other from Long Beach California. Nice people. More about that tomorrow. It is 4:40 am, I have been awake since 3:00 and I need to try to get back to sleep. I fell asleep at 9:30 so I did get in five and a half hours.

Good night or good morning I'm not sure which makes more sense. In a few hours I will begin walking to Fromista. The walk starts straight up hill and then is fairly flat. The distance is about sixteen miles, not a short day.

Buen Camino.

It's Thursday and I now have two hundred miles behind me.. On to Hornillos Los Camino a walk of thirteen miles.

Let me start by telling you that there will be no internet access from Hornillos so this post will not be sent until Friday. They do have a phone booth.

Today was a really good day. The wind disappeared, no rain and it was cloudy and cool. Perfect for the Camino. I have a normal breakfast today not just the usual bread feast. I'm ready to go. I have dressed for rain and cooler temperatures but I'm only out for ten minutes walking past the Cathedral and I'm cold. I get lucky. There is a Camino shop open and I buy a pull over scarf.  It's like a large headband which can cover your face, most of your head and can be pulled up over your nose or just be kept around your neck.  I had one on my first Camino and it was a good investment. I buy it for two Euro. I'm ready to go. 

Unlike yesterday's impossible conditions today feels like a vacation. The Limos are dry, the passengers are firmly bandages and I am dressed correctly. I'm thinking it's going to be a good day. I wil be correct.

As I leave the city I take a couple of photos of the Catherdral and of the most famous statue in Burgos, the statue of El Sid. I will walk to Rabe de las Calzadis which is about seven miles from where I started before I take my first break. I need to slow down. The trail is flat and mostly dry. There are segments, which have mud from yesterday's storm but for the most part its just easy. The break will slow me down. I walk into the first cafe and it's packed. There is only one person trying to get everyone what they want and I quickly realize that this location will not work so I move ahead. Not more than two hundred yards around the next corner I recognize the little cafe where I had coffee with Michel, Nelly and Fernando for the first time. I go inside and there is only one other Pilgrim and a few locals at the bar having coffee. I order a coffee and while I'm waiting the only other pilgrim there turns to me and says "where are you from". I explain and he tells me that he is from Germany. He mentioned the city but I could not hear him.

With that he jumps right into the what he wants to talk about ... " why are you walking the Camino?". No chit chat let's just get right to it. Okay. I begin to  answer the question by saying that I did it once before and I enjoyed it and he just cuts me off before I can finish what I would have said. He just wants to tell me why he's here. This is what makes the Camino interesting for me.

He tells me that he is walking the Camino as a sacrifice to God which he sees as an exchange of hardship for a blessing. He then looks at me and says that yesterday's walk was a true sacrifice. I agree but I don't say anything.

He goes on to tell me that the blessing he wants to trade for the sacrifice and discomfort he will endure walking the Camino will be used to bring his brother and sister together again. He goes on and tells me that he can no longer watch the two destroy the family and create such problems. In addition he tells me that he fears his death will come before he can make them come back together. So he walks the Camino. I don't even remember if I got my coffee. With that he picks up his backpack and tells me that he must leave to go ahead and secure a place at the nearest Albergue. 

I never did get to answer his question but I get it. I can only hope to see him in Santiago to ask him if it worked?

This is turning into a very nice day. I take a few photos and walk into Hornillos Del Camino in less than five hours. As I walk into the village It starts to come back to me from the first Camino. This is the town where we called Emma's estranged father from the bar on his birthday and sang happy birthday to him from the only phone booth still working in Spain or perhaps the world.  I find the bar, walked in and order a beer and took a picture of the phone booth. 

That day with Emma which I wrote about on my first Camino will always be a very special day for me. It is what the Camino is all about.

With that I take a seat and two minutes later a guy with his own beer wearing a hat with a shamrock on it sits with me. Another really interesting person. He's from Dublin his name is Mick and he is a riot. I only wish I could understand more of what he's saying. He tells me that it took him twelve hours to complete the first day! He goes on to tell me that in the middle of the climb up the Hill of Forgiveness, which was day four from Pamplona, he sheds his boots and walks in sandles. Just took them off and left them there.  I look at his feet and he is wearing a pair of bright blue tennis shoes with no laces. I can't help but ask ... Where did those come from? He tells me that his sandles gave out and he bought the blue shoes a couple of days ago and that they are the wrong size but it was all they had at the shop which is why he has thrown the laces away. He plans to replace them with a new pair of walking boots as soon as possible. His story goes on but he needs to leave in order to secure a bunk in the Albergue before it's sold out. We agree to meet at the next town, Castrojeriz where I know a good restaurant. We will meet at the Plaza Mayor for dinner. Should be fun.

So that's it for today. All good after a very difficult day. Tomorrow on to Castrojeriz a walk of about thirteen miles. Weather looks good and the terrain is very manageable . I am over the two hundred mile count. One step at a time. Good night and Buen Camino.

I just arrived in Hontanas where I am having a slice of pizza and now have wifi! Buen Camino. 

A very difficult day. The wind is worse, it's very cold and it's raining. Add to that the passengers have grown some new friends. But there is good news ...I have met some interesting people!

A very difficult day but first Belorado. The walk is boring to say the least but it keeps your interest because of the endless line of very large triucks coming directly at you all day. Much of the day is on the road as they come racing past you with little room to spare. Add to this the final destination is just not a place anyone would travel to and you and you have a day worth forgetting. 

I check into the Hotel Jacobeo and soon thereafter I am on my way to the only restaurant in town. I am worn out from the fourteen miles into a very strong wind that is in my face all day and never relents. The good news is I order the chicken stew and it is very good. The bad news is I go back to the hotel. 

The room is warm so I leave the window open. My room is in the front of the hotel which is thirty feet from the raceway and it's trucks nonstop all night long. I can't wait to leave. I am back on the Camino at 8:30. The wind is significantly stronger and yes it's a head wind and it will remain that way all day and it will get stronger. It will take me eight hours to reach St. Juan.

I got an email from Pat this morning warning me about the forecast. He is correct. As I leave the hotel it's cold not chilly,  it's cold. It now turns out that the"go to vote wool shirt"  I bought in Santo Domingo for six Euro is rapidly becoming my best Camino investment thus far. I am wearing shorts. Not a good decision.

I stop at Villambistia which is about three and a half miles into today's fifteen mile journey. The sky is lookng worse, the wind is picking up and it's just plain cold. I stop for coffee but more importantly to make a wardrobe adjustment. It's starting to rain. Just spinkles but it gets your attention with more than nearly twelve miles to go.  

I have a coffee and take out my rain jacket and rain cover for my backpack. It's also time to get everytnig else in the bag like my cell phone which I normally have in my pocket to take photos. There will be very few photos and all will be before this stop. 

I reach Villafranca Montes De Oca which is about half way to St. juan de Ortega. I'm freezing. I stop for another coffee and someting to eat. The cafe is packed and for good reason. Lots of the Donkey folks are trying to get taxis to wherever because it's really starting to rain and immediately ahead of us is a very, very long uphill challenge complete with all of the Spanish potatoes. There are two taxis there when I arrive and there are far to many willing customers. The cafe calls for reinforcements. I find a place to stand and have a muffin. One guy asks me if I'm going on? I simply say yes and he then asks me if I know what is directly ahead. I'm not sure where he is from and I just shake my head yes.

I am out the door and the conditions are really nasty. The climb is very difficult. I stop many times and just try to get through the wind. I finally reach the top and a short distance from there I catch up to a women who is walking alone. We walk and chat for the short flat part of the trail and she tells me that she is from Denver and that she went to the Hospital at the end of the second day because of blisters. They were so bad that the Doctor told her to take a taxi to Pamplona and stay in a hotel for at least three days if she planned on going on. He also told her that at the end of the three days to take a taxi ahead to Najera and to avoid the hill climb out of Pamplona to the turbines . She has been back on the Camino for one day. She started on August 30th and this is her forth day of walking. Not a good day to get back on the Camino.

So I reach San Juan and there is little doubt that the passengers have new blisters. I'm not really to happy. Pat and John will remember that everything operates out of one very small cafe/ bar and that there are only eight rooms in the town. The wifi is outside in a seperate little hut and you pay with coins to get on line. If you read my first blog you might remember the Weather Girl ... This is where I first met her.

So I'm standing at the  bar and I'm dripping wet like everyone else and there is a young guy trying to get the inn keepers attention. When he finally does he orders two boccidillo's. Strange I think he's alone and I'm right. They deliver two enormously mostly bread things and yes they are both for him.  I ask him where he is from? Interesting person number one.

He tells me that he is from Poland and that he started his Camino more than 700 miles ago! He is going to the ocean so that means a distance of more than one thousand miles. Add to that that he is walking nearly thirty miles a day which at least twice what I'm doing and throw in that he's carrying his own tent etc and I have now found my first interesting person. He also tells me that he has lived in London for the past nine years but after doing research on the Camino he quits his job and goes back to Poland and then onto the Camino.

I asked him what he did in London and he simply said computers . Going on I ask him what he will do after the Camino and he says he does not care as long as it allows him to stay close to home .. No more wondering to other places because of work. I ask him how old he is and he tells me forty three. He looks like he is twenty nine and could walk to Califonia. 

His reason for the Camino? He wants to get back to being closer to God. He tells me that his work in London left him empty and away from the things that were not important and that he was not going to allow that to happen again no matter the money. Wow! A Camino pilgrim in the flesh. He also speaks six languages. 

Finally a small table is open and we sit. I need to because my feet are killing me. In short order a women and her husband ask if they can join us and it turns out that she is from Scotalnd and she also is trying to reconnect. She also says that she is trying to "drag him with her to a better place" . He says nothing. Out of no where she looks at me and says your on a journey for others! I tell her what I'm doing and she simply again turns to her husband and says you need to walk with Jim tomorrow? We all laugh but I think she is serious. With that they have to go. There is no place to stay and they walk back out Into the storm. Robert from Poland says he needs to move on to find a place to settle and with that they are all gone. Katherine says to me "we will see you in Santiago and he will be a changed man" . I don't even know his name.

My feet are killing me and tomorrow the wether forecast is much worse. Heavy rain and winds at 28 mph! I really don't know what to say. Tomorrow to Burgos a walk of sixteen miles if it's worse weather than today I just don't know.

Good night and Buen Camino. 

On my way to Belorado a walk of about fourteen miles ... It's very windy.

Before I cover yesterday's end and my visit to the Church of the Two Chickens I want to write about a question I got yesterday asking me how I would compare this Camnio to the first at this point. First let me just say that's it's early. I still have a very long way to go. The question was asked of me yesterday and it did get me thinking about a comparison. I prepared better for the first Camino and I believed that before I left for St. Jean two weeks ago. Would that lead to more problems which would place this Camino in a negative light? Compared to many others I've met along the way I was much better prepared. Were they unaware of the difficulty especially in the first two days? Deprived of the time to train? Poorly equipped? Were both the Limos and the Passengers ready to go?

For me the comparison of the two is not at all about preparation. Yes the physical part can and will make a huge difference. If you end up with the wounded I'm sure your opinion of the Camino won't be all that good. 

For me it's about who you meet along the Way. I have met many nice people on this my second Camino. The weather has been terrific, the accommodations just fine and Inspite of some minor blister related issues I'm good physically. So what's the difference so far that makes me think that Camino number one was more enjoyable? Interesting people . I met lots of interesting people on Camino one but I have not yet met anyone on Camino two who I would call interesting. I'm not giving up. There is still a long way to go. Time will tell.

Now back to yesterday. My walk to Santo Domingo. I made great time and all is good. I will check in, take care of the chores and then I will walk to the Paradore where I can sit in the comfort of the Hotel's  generous lobby sitting area including the really large comfortable leather chairs. I will just take the time to sit, relax, have a glass of Rioja and start the day's blog. The plan wil be to have dinner at the Paradore before I return to the Convent. By the way both Pat and John stayed at the Convent on their Camino. They loved it!

Okay great plan. I will also visit the Cathedral because it is directly across from the Hotel. I'm looking forward to a steak. I have not eaten much and today was no exception. I'm hungry. At about 6:30 I walk from the lobby to the dining room to check out the menu. When I get there it's empty. I find a staff member and he tells me that they don't serve dinner until 8:30. That's two hours from now so that won't work. Bummer. 

I decide to go to find a pharmacy and when I did it's closed. There is however a small Camino type shop which is open . Good, I need a new tee shirt. The shop has nothing that works except a shirt that looks like a plaid shirt you might see on a farmer when he goes to town to vote. It's actually wool. I do need a shirt I can wear to dinner. I can wear it for just an hour or so and then just throw it into the backpack for the next day. I buy it. It's on sale for six Euro. Try that at Nordstrom.

Now to find something to eat. I ask the shop owner and he sends me one block away to a street I have never seen before. It has at least a dozen street side cafés. The sidewalk is fifty feet wide and all of the cafés are sheltered from the wind with plastic. It looks like something you would find in Paris. I stroll down the street lookng at menus which are all very much alike. Lots of people, it's a happening place on Sunday. I pick an Italian place and order pasta and a salad with a glass of Rioja. This will work just fine.

I'm just starting my salad when in walks the largest human being I've ever seen and that includes the circus! I think he selected this restaurant because it has a bench seat against one of the walls. He must be five hundred pounds. I don't think he's on the Camino. Ten minutes later he is screaming at the waiter and all I can understand is that they are arguing about what "medium" is. He has ordered a steak. He is pounding his fists on the table and screaming at now two waiters. Not quite the Parador. I'm now in a hurry to leave.

My visit to the Church of the Two Chickens. It's a stunning Cathedral. I took some photos which I have sent out. I hope everyone who wants to see them got them. If not send me an email and I will do my best to make sure your on the list. My visit is fairly brief. The Rooster does not crow while I'm there and I don't find a feather. 

I leave Santo Doming at ten. It takes me six hours to reach Belorado. It would have been sooner but every step, all fourteen miles is dead into a very strong headwind. It just wears me out. Add to that the walk is along lots of freeway. It's noisy to say the least with semi's screaming by constantly. I am no longer walking in the Vineyards or Rioja. I am now walking through the farm land most of which has been plowed under and just waiting for the next planting. It's brown for as far as the eye can see. 

I arrive at the Hotel Jacobeo. There is nothing else in this town ...nothing else. There is one restaurant so I guess I'll just wander over there and see what is available. It will be another early night. 

Tomorrow a walk of fifteen miles to San Juan de Ortega. Lots of elevation change and the weather looks ominous. Good night. Buen Camino.