Day 7. The Quiet Little Village of Los Arcos

First let me just point out that the first time I was here in Los Arcos I ended up in a police car being driven to what was described in my itinerary as the “Villas at Los Arcos” which turned out to be a couple of miles away from Los Arcos and the “Villas”was a truck stop / gas station. Regardless it was memorable and as a result the next morning I met Michele the Italian chef who has a restaurant in Germany which in turn resulted in my meeting and walking, dining with Rainer, Nelly and Fernando, Emma and Emily and others. 

So here I am not in the”Villas” but back again the the plaza where an hour before I had the pleasure of meeting Irish Ann the 2018 version. I was not looking forward to the possibility that she would once again might be there given the fact that it is the central gathering point in Los Arcos. Fortunately she was not there. I walk into the cafe and order a small beer ... I have an hour to kill before dinner.

I walk back outside looking for a place to sit and there are many chairs available but with the exception of only one they are all in the sun. I have had enough sun for the day so I go to the empty chair at a table being occupied by a young guy drinking his coffee and reading a book. I ask if the chair is taken? It’s amazing how accustomed we become to asking questions of total strangers in what is likely not their native tongue and expecting an answer. So ... he says yes in perfect English, welcome. The conversation starts when he asks me where I am from. I tell him and return the question and he tells me that he lives in Barcelona. He goes on to tell me that he would one day like to visit California. I ask him if he is on the Camino and he says yes but not to Santiago. His name is Carlos and he then tells me that he is walking from Santiago back to his home in Barcelona. I ask how far the walk will be and he estimates that it will be about 1200 kilometers which is close to 700 miles ... it is his second Camino but the first on this route.

We discuss the Albergues available along the way and he starts to laugh just as he is also rolling a cigarette. He tells me a story about staying in an Albergue just a few nights ago where the snoring was the worst he has ever been subject to. He goes on to tell me about a young women two bunk beds from him who snored the loudest of anyone and snored all night long until the alarm went off. Alarm? I asked what he meant. He laughed again and then told me that at this Albergue the owner would set off the fire alarm at 5:30 in the morning and continued to do so every five minutes to get the pilgrims to leave early. Only one problem. When Carlos went to get his boots they were missing and in their place were a similar pair but a smaller size. He borrowed a pair of flip-flops and ran down the guy who took his boots before he had gone to far. If he did not catch him he was facing the last 300 miles walking in a pair of boots that did not fit. 

We talked for about an hour and he was very interested in what jobs could be found in the US for someone with little skills but is willing to work for a chance to learn? I really did not have an answer so I asked him why the same opportunity was not available in Barcelona and he just shook his head and said not now. 

So now here I am in Viana after a walk of only 12 miles. It was uneventful but warm again. As I arrive in the village I need something to drink so I stop at a little cafe where I meet Peter and Heidi from Sweden. Peter speaks English, Heidi not so much. Peter asks if I’m am going to Santiago and as I say yes he asks where I started and when I started. Basically Peter and Heidi started in the same place, St. Jean France but started walking three days before I me and I am now where they are. They are using the “Donkey Service for their luggage but Peter tells me that he is very tired and that Heidi is worried about him. Not much I can say except that he might consider skipping a long day here and there and just taking a taxi to the next village not to risk getting hurt. He interprets with Heidi and she is in agreement. I probably won’t see them again, our schedules just won’t match up.

There was a young couple at the plaza last night and she was in pain. She was not limping ... she was dragging her foot. I saw them today and took a picture of him wrapping her foot and ankle and doing a really good job. Fortunately today was not as difficult and I wished them well. Time will tell.

I also saw the young quiet Italian guy today and once again he made every effort to ignore me. Here is the good news ... I have a name for him. I will from this point forward refer to him as Harpo as in Harpo Marx, the mute member of the threesome. I’m sure there are a few readers who are now Googeling Harpo Marx.

That’s it for day 7 ... one week completed. 

Steps today 29,015

Miles today 12.1

Total steps todate 254,031

Good night, Buen Camino.

Day 6. Flies and the new Ann

Today was physically not difficult. I say that and catch myself for believing that and setting myself up for a real disappointment. There were a few hills but nothing like the first five days. It was hot and the trail was often dusty and there were flies ... lots of flies. I nearly beat myself to death with the hat my grandson’s gave me for my birthday trying to swat them off of my head. They were relentless.

The temperature cooled a bit to the mid-eighties but given the lack of shade it was still hot. There were three things that were meaningful from today’s Camino. Two I will share with you and one I will share only with Robin. Actually I have already shared that one other Camino takeaway with Robin. 

I believe that there are going to be somethings which will never change from one Camino to the next. You may stay at the same place, you can’t change how difficult any part of any day is or is not. You cannot change the weather but you may experience the same conditions on occasion. I did not believe that you could experience meeting a person who was exactly like someone else you met on another Camino but today I proved that to be wrong. 

If you read my first Camino blog or read the book you may recall that I liked to give people names other than their own. I didn’t always do that but on occasion I did for my own entertainment. Remember Bono? He was the guy from Mesopotamia who stalked the young girls in our little walking group ... Emma and Emily. I gave him that name because he always had his sunglasses on regardless of the time of day, inside or out. I picked up on the fact that he was hiding behind those glasses and he knew I had him figured out. It took only a few short days to drive him out. I did not think I would ever meet anyone like him again on the Camino and so far that’s correct and I doubt I will see the likes of him again on this Camino.

That brings me to another memorable person from my first Camino ... Irish Ann. I gave her that name because she was from Ireland but I don’t remember her real name. I gave her the name because the first three letters of ANNoying are ANN.  ANN made every effort to drag me into a political debate which I was not going to allow. That was not what I was on the Camino for and actually any such political discussion ran counter to why I was on the Camino. ANN would just not stop until I finally told her that she was annoying and that regardless of her efforts I would not get dragged into a political conversation only she wanted to have. I never thought I would meet her or anyone like her again on this Camino but I was wrong ... say hello to ANNoying Ann the new version.

I walked into Los Arcos around 2:30. As I said it was a good day, I know where my accommodation is because I have stayed there before and it’s five minutes from the Central Plaza where the Camino dumps everyone. I am covered in dust and I have sweat through everything I’m wearing. I order a small beer. A reasonable reward for the day's effort. I am drinking the beer and Majorie and Gary ( from Connecticut ) stop by and sit for a few minutes. Their accommodation is almost three miles further away in an isolated area so we will meet for dinner at some other date. We are on the same schedule. Marjorie is a bit disappointed because the church of St. Mary is not open. That’s unfortunate because this little church is often referred to as the most beautiful church on the Camino. With it’s simple wooden door it’s easy to just walk right past it ... it is beautiful. I have sent photos which don’t do it justice but it’s the best I can do. 

So how does ANNoying ANN fit in here? Well soon after Marjorie and Gary leave four people occupy the table next to me. Three women and one guy. They are all dressed well ... that means they are wearing clean clothes and they don’t look like me ... dusty, dirty and looking haggard. One of the three women turns to me and asks if I’m on the Camino? Well given the fact that I look the way I do and sitting next to me is an equally dusty backpack and a pair of walking sticks I would say that’s a good guess. So I answer “yes”. Next question from the short haired women wearing the Hollywood sunglasses is ... oh your an American, wear are you from? The question actually violates itself because she has already answered that question but okay I think I know what she means which is where in America do you live? My answer is “California “. ANN says that she and I have one thing in common and that is that we both live in States which got the election right. Say Hello to Irish ANN. My response is pretty quick and too the point. “You are correct that I am on the Camino and yes I do live in California but you are wrong in thinking that you can bait me into a discussion about politics here in Los Arcos. That is not why I’m here and I won’t be dragged into any debate regardless of weather or not we see things in the same way or differently.” Here’s what made my day ... she did not have a response when I stood up put on my backpack, grabbed my poles and said to her, “Welcome  to the Camino.” and I just walked away. How do they find me?

The third Camino event of the day will have to wait until my next post. It’s late and I need to get some sleep. I’ll just say that it’s about Carlos who is walking 700 miles from Santiago to Barcelona.

Steps today 34,841

Miles today 12.5

Total steps to date 225,026

Good night, Buen Camino.

Day 5 . On to Estella 13.4 miles

I was awake early to be sure I took the time needed to get my backpack weight down to a more manageable level. Yesterday’s weight was over 25 pounds and by the time I went to dinner my shoulders were very stressed. I left behind a pair of pants ... it’s too hot so shorts only. Also not going on with me ... two shirts, two pairs of heavier than needed socks and a host of odds and ends. The final result was a weight of 21 pounds with water. I also reduced the water and I will just have to be more mindfull of stopping for water more often than carrying the added weight.

It was around 75 degrees when I stepped on to the Camino at 8:30. I felt a bit sore but all in all no real complaints. I had forgotten about that first hill after about two miles from Puerta la Reiner. I took a look at my iPhone to track just how long it was. Hard to believe but it it’s all up hill turning left and right and then back again for 1.2 miles. The Brierley guide book has the elevation change at about 700 feet but I can tell you that it’s much more difficult than it sounds. I stopped four times to just lean on my poles to catch my breath and drink a little water. Once at the top I could see that I was not alone in how tough I thought the climb was. There were several Pilgrims sitting on the ground and taking an extended break. 

There was a women, Caroline, who reached the top just behind me and as I was catching my breath she stopped to chat. The first comment she made was how big a surprise that hill was because she had not heard anyone mention it. I agreed with her but just left out that I had done it twice before but I too had forgotten about that hill. Caroline is from Perth, Australia. She is here in Europe for the first time and is walking the Camino in the most interesting way. First she asks me if I’m going to Santiago and I say yes. She then asks how long it will take me. I pointed out that my plan was to walk straight through and to complete the Camino in 34 days. I then ask her what her plan is and she tells me that she must finish by November 19th! I’m really confused but I don’t want to say anything to offend her and I know that she just walked up a pretty tough hill without any serious problem. She can tell that I’m am confused and she then explains that she is on a 17 week vacation and is mixing it up a bit. Example: She tells me that a little more than a week ago she walked to Pamplona and stayed there an extra night and then took a train to Luxembourg, stayed there and then stopped in Paris before coming back to Pamplona where she walked to Puerta la Reiner and today to Estella. Her plan is to decide soon where to stop again to get on a train to go to places yet to be selected and then return to the Camino. In the end she may complete the Camino or she may not depending on how she likes the other places she decides to visit. Now that’s a first. I wanted to ask but I didn’t ... how do you take 17 weeks vacation without creating a job issue?

I did not see Marjorie and Gary today but that’s not a surprise. The time you start and the pace you continue on is anyone’s guess as to whether you will see or not see some people. I did see the young quiet Italian today about five miles from Estella. He was sitting outside a dumpy little cafe and I needed a break and some water so I stopped. When I got my water I went back outside and the only empty chair was right next to him. I sat and then just waited to see if he would say anything but he did not. I hope he’s not a salesman because if he is he will starve to death. 

I now have my first minor injury. I kicked a very large Spanish Potato today while going downhill with my right passenger. The middle toe is bruised and sore. No doubt the nail will soon be history. I waited to check it out until I reached the hotel and when I removed the sock it was bloodied but there was no swelling that I could see. Once I cleaned up I went to the Farmacia and was helped by a very nice young lady who spoke perfect English. She understood my problem and quickly gave me a toe cap bandage which will cushion the toe from some additional damage. 

In an effort to reduce weight I decided to reduce the amount of water I was carrying which was fine but I ran out of water with about three miles to go and it was very hot and without any shade ... I must do a better job of keeping track of where I am to be sure not to run out again.

I have stayed at this hotel before. It's nice and centrally located. The same women was at the desk the last time I was here. On that visit I only realized that I had left my only charger back in Puerta la Reiner when I arrived in Estella and was in a panic because it was a Sunday and I needed a charger. I asked her if she knew where I might be able to buy one and I still recall her telling me to wait a moment. She went into the back and came out with a box of chargers left by others guests and told me I could take one or even two if I wanted to. Saved the day. Please note that obviously I am not the only one leaving things behind. 

Tomorrow on to Los Arcos a walk of 13.5 miles with about a 900 foot climb at the very beginning.

Steps today 38,829

Miles today 13.6 

Total steps to date 190,185

Good night, Buen Camino.

Day 4. Jeanne can't keep up

Today on day number 4, I will walk from Pamplona to Puenta La Reina in the province of Navarro. I have seen the Basque separatist signs and graffiti calling for a sepeation from Spanish control. I doubt it will ever end the way they would like. The walk today will be in lots of sun with little cover so extra water is in order. I slept too late and did not pack well before leaving. My backpack with water weighs in at 26 pounds ... well over any weight that makes sense. I keep with me a very small digital scale but what’s the point if I’m just going to weigh it just to see how overweight I am? I must shed some weight before I start day 5 but first I will drag far too much weight up more than 2100 feet followed by a very steep decline completely covered in Spanish potatoes. Enough about the complaints ... I’m on my way at 10:15 at least an hour later than planned. At first I’m talking myself into believing that the weight is not a problem but that’s because the first 3.5 miles is out of the city and through the outlying villages. The problem is that once past this point it will be in the open with the sun blazing, up 2100 feet on not the best of trails. 

Just before the serious climb begins I catch up to a young women who is moving slowly and clearly struggling. As I come along side of her she turns, smiles and gives me a great big Buen Camino! I stop to chat with her and ask how she feels? I can say without being judgmental that she is in poor physical condition. Again just an honest observation. Her name is Jeanne and she is from Hawaii and is on the Camino with her father who is well ahead of her. Jeanne goes on to tell me that her father is not very happy with her not being able to keep up with him. It’s not my place but I can’t avoid telling her that the best advice I ever got from a Camino veteran was to never, never try to keep up with anyone and if you walk with someone slower don’t adjust. It’s your Camino ...do it at your own pace, stop when you want to, stop when you need to but just do it for yourself. 

I hope she does not get pressured into moving at a faster pace than works for her. I can only tell you that her courage and determination was amazing. I hope to see her again but given her pace that’s doubtful. I wished her Buen Camino and moved on. I was really bothered by the fact that she was struggling at the flat and easiest part of the walk today and would soon be facing a very, very difficult climb and an even more difficult downhill march covered in rocks. I pray she makes it okay.

I reach the top of Alto del Perdon, often called the Hill of Forgiveness. I can’t vouch for its accuracy but I have been told that the name comes from a belief that if you ask Him for forgiveness of a sin or something else you want to be forgiven for your request will be grated if you complete the walk to the top ... Alto del Perdon. I asked ... it can’t hurt.

The day was again very hot, temperature was at 90 degrees or close to it. The one thing good that comes with the location is that it is very windy. Windy enough to have at the top dozens of huge wind turbines spinning endlessly which or course means that the very same wind is having a cooling effect on you as you climb the hill.

Once over the hill it’s time to face the potato farm. Get the poles ready this will be a challenge. It’s a straight downhill journey for about a mile. It seems longer because you just have to take it slowly. I reach the bottom and I have only six miles to go but it’s fairly flat so i feel pretty good with one caveat... my shoulders are getting my attention. I stop for Water at a little cafe and meet Marjorie and Gary. They live in Greenwich, Connecticut. Gary is also retired from the financial services business. He was a trader with Lehman Brothers before the 08 collapse. They ask If I would like to walk along with them. We walk together for about three miles but we stop several times to give Marjorie a chance to rest. Keeping with my own Camino coaching I decide to move on. We agree to meet for dinner as we have basically the same route.

I arrive in Puerta la Reina. My Hostel is at the very entrance of the village. I check in and I’m in the process of getting the laundry taken care of when a thunderstorm erupted without warning and it’s immediately a real biblical downpour. Ten minutes earlier I would have been caught in it. I hope Jeanne is okay.

Dinner and straight back to the room to nurse my shoulders with another dose of ibuprofen cream. That’s it. Good night and Buen Camino. 

Oh yes, to someone very special to me ... have a great trip, you have earned it!  U.

Steps today, 36,242

Miles today 12.8

Total steps to date 151,356

Day 3. Warm weather, and my first "misplaced" item

I woke this morning and went downstairs to the carb only breakfast. Truth be told I’m only interested in the coffee. When I step outside it’s really very nice and I’m guessing that the temperature is about 60 degrees ... perfect. But I’m not getting ahead of myself because I went online and the weather forecast said the high for the day would be 33 degrees Celsius which equates to 92 Fahrenheit. It’s going to be hot. How quickly will it warm up? I don’t have a clue.

I am packed and out the door of the Guataxiri Hotel and on my way back to the Camino. By the way the hotel is about three quarters of a mile from where I get back on the Camino. That’s okay because I remember that when I last stayed here it was May 2013 and it snowed! That’s was interesting. Which is harder? I don’t know yet but I will soon enough.

I get back to the Camino and it’s fine. The first eight or nine miles is in and out of the forest with a variety of hills which are both up and down and will get your attention. The last three miles are boring as you walk through the streets on the outskirts of Pamplona. That will have a lot to do with today’s lack of photography. It does not take long for the temperature to rise which in turn calls for a wardrobe change. I see the same dozen or so pilgrims as we all pass or get passed because we take our breaks at different times. I once described it as like being in a NASCAR race ... the leader stops for gas or repairs and those behind the leader pass him by while he is in the pits. Soon after the leader leaves the pits and once again joins the race while some of those who passed him while he was in the pits have now stopped for their own pit stop and they are passed. Get it?  Some pit stops are worse than others.

I did see one pilgrim actually lancing a large blister with a knife ... did not look good. His pit stop was much longer than anyone else’s so I did not see him again. By the way a blister of that magnitude after two and a half days says something was wrong before arrival ... shoes, socks and or training and preparation come to mind.

At one point while in the sun with no shade to take advantage of, I know that I am running out of water and the next opportunity for water is about three or four miles away and that’s not good in this heat. Juan the Camino supermarket king to the rescue. I climb this hill and know that I need to stop and drink whatever I have.  I turn the corner into a shady area and there he is ... Juan selling fruit and water, ice cold water. Perfect he saves me. I sit for twenty minutes and we try to converse but my Spanish is much worse than his English but we manage. I took a picture of Juan which will be seen shortly. During that stop I find out just how hot it is because when I take off my backpack it’s wet from sitting on my back and everything I’m wearing is soaked ... completely soaked. Once out of the hills and the heat I enter the city where the heat still exists but the walk is simply flat and about three miles long. I am not complaining. The passengers and the limo’s need a break and so do I.

I arrive at my hotel, the same one I was in when I arrived last week and I immediately take care of the laundry. Once again the temperature is very good for drying the laundry. The good news is that I have a room at the back of the hotel which means no one will care about the laundry being on my little balcony. If I had a front facing room overlooking the plaza my laundry would have been a problem.

Here is the first confession ... I have now lost the first item of importance. I brought two chargers for my iPad and my iPhone and I now have only one. After I take care of the laundry and take a shower I head to the phone shop and yes they do have the charger I need and it’s only 5.45 Euro. Next on my to do list is the Farmacia to buy a cream which will reduce the soreness in my legs. Once there I explain what I’m looking for and the women immediately recommends a ibufen cream (Advil in a cream) it’s actully a Ibuprofeno gel. I hope it works.

So after all of this it’s time to eat something but it’s only 6:30 and nearly every restaurant does not start serving until 8:00 or later. I go to the cafe next to the hotel under an awning and I order a glass of wine. Never ask for a favor until you have some skin in the game so I ask the waiter if I can order an ensalda mixta and he says he will check. He comes back, brings me my glass of wine and says yes on the salad request. But that’s not what got my attention. When he brought my wine he also brought me an ashtray. I did not ask for one but there it was. When was the last time you sat down in a restaurant and the waiter brought you an ashtray without asking? When was the last time you asked for an ashtray and actually got one? Never.

There were three tables occupied in addition to mine. All three had two women together at each. All six of them were smoking and two of them rolled their own which is not unusual here. In the end I did get the salad. It was good and once finished I headed back to the hotel to write today’s blog. With that I will signoff and say good night and Buen Camino.

Today’s iPhone stats:

Miles today 13

Steps 34,110

Total steps to date: 115,124

Day 2. A short walk of 12 miles...

Day 2. A short walk of only 12 miles but it’s mostly downhill and it’s covered in Spanish potatoes, aka rocks. Lots of rocks. The walk downhill also means that I will be doing the rock dance with my poles. There will be only a few photos because today's walk is also in the forest so every photo will look the same ... today isn’t anything like yesterday.

The number of steps I will take today will also be much higher than the usual for the distance covered because the steps needed to cover the terrain is higher. Simply walking straight downhill and making sure you don’t cause an injury creates lots of steps. 

Before I catch up on today I first want to cover a couple of other items. Let’s start with a thank you to all those who have made a donation to the Walk for Water. We are off to a good start and have already reached a total of more than $26,000! Thank you. I want to tell you about two donations which really made my day. Max and Mason are brothers. Mason starts his high school senior year and his brother Max will be a freshman when school starts soon. Both made a donation from their own money and I can only tell you that it makes all of the Walk meaningful. Two young guys recognizing that they can help other young people who have so much less than they do is a real inspiration ... thank you Mason and Max.

Catching up on my first pilgrim dinner last night. I met some really nice people at the table I was assigned to. Two brothers from Wisconsin, one just graduated from college and one just completed high school. Really nice young men with great attitudes. Across from me was Allen from Toronto by way of South Africa. There was one other young guy at the table from Italy but I can’t tell you anything else about him. He never spoke to anyone after the introductions and it was not a language issue, he spoke English. He just looked down at his food, ate quickly, got up and left. I saw him on the Camino today and when I said hello he just turned away and ignored me. Shy? I guess so. Why is he on the Camino? I don’t know but it’s not to make new friends.

Today’s walk was a bit more than 12 miles and it was primarily downhill and in the forest as I have already said. I arrived at my accommodation at 2:30. It was a nice day but warmed up considerably by the time I arrived. The combination of an early arrival and the warm weather made for perfect laundry conditions. I did that first and everything was dry by 7:00 having hung everything out my window in the sun. 

Dinner was early because I did not eat anything on the way, I won’t do that again. I really need to eat something along the way and make sure I take a real break. The salad was terrific, the Paella was not. I ate almost none of the Paella. Dinner including two glasses of wine was a whopping 13 Euro’s. That’s it for now, tomorrow I walk back to Pamplona ... a walk of about 13 miles. Good night, Buen Camino.

Today’s totals:

Miles 12.6

Steps 35,500

Total steps thus far 81,014

Day 1. It won’t take long to find out if I’m prepared ...

Day 1. It won’t take long to find out if I’m prepared …

The first day is here. There isn’t much debate about how difficult this first day is going up and over the Pyrenees. Often referred to as the Route de Napoleon because it was the route chosen by the General to get his troops in and out of Spain during the Peninsula War. As written in John Brierley’s guide to the Camino de Santiago, “ This stage is one of the more strenuous and veritable baptism of fire into El Camino and Spain. This stage represents one of the most steepest ascents of the whole pilgrimage.” So as I head to the Camino I want to give a shout out to my pilgrim brothers, Pat and John and to my Pilgrim sister Carol who know what lies ahead … Buen Camino.

I was awake early just could not sleep, a combination of the bedding and anticipation I guess. I went to breakfast at 7:30 and of course it was the usual carb fest. Lots of bread and a selection of cheeses with real coffee. The one thing I did not train for was the coffee. Here it’s really meant to get your attention and at 7:30 with little sleep it works.

Once I packed it was time to go so I headed for the Camino. There were only a few headed for the Camino so the difference between the crowds of yesterday and this morning was surprising. As I approached the start there was a couple just ahead of me who turned right and went to the road route while I headed up the hill for the mounta route. The mountain route gets your attention very quickly as it starts straight up hill and continues up hill for about five miles. I was ver pleased with the way I felt going up hill and grew increasing confident that I was prepared.

The weather was perfect. Cloudy with lots of fog which meant a perfect temperature of about 60 degrees. I did take lots of pictures today which also forces you to stop to do so. I brought a little lunch from the hotel and lots of water. When I left the hotel my backpack weighed 20.5 pounds. A good weight given that I’m carrying 60 ounces of water. I caught up to a couple taking a selfie and volunteered to take their photo and they returned the favor and took mine. They were from Melbourne Australia, father and daughter. They were only going from St. John to Pamplona which is a three day walk but they were taking slowly and planning to do so in six days. Their first stop was just a short distance ahead. I envived them.

After the first uphill seven miles the weather changed and the fog thickened and the wind picked up. I caught up to about a dozen pilgrims scattered about a plateau all frantically in wardrobe change as some nasty looking weather was moving quickly in our direction. I followed suite and added a layer as the temperature dropped quickly to 50 or less. Rain gear was the order of 5ge day and this meant my new red poncho was about to makes its debut. Once I had everything organized I went back to the never ending uphill climb. I checked my iPhone and I was now eight miles into the days journey. At about the ten mile point I was drenched from sweating because of all the added layers and because the storm did not bring any rain. Time for another wardrobe change.

The fog was still significant but was soon replaced by the sun and an increasing temperature. I only saw one pilgrim struggling with an obvious limp which does not bode well given what lies ahead … the very difficult downhill section which runs for about seven miles. There was a Camino van which drives up to you and sakes if you are okay and capable of continuing. I was asked and they gave me a thumbs up. I can only hope that the van found her before the trail would prevent them from finding her.

As much as I felt good at the beginning it did not take long to realize how lacking my downhill preparation was. The final five miles, all straight downhill, were really difficult. I just took my time and really slowed down. It took me more than two hours to complete the last two miles. It would be very difficult to describe how great it felt to reach my hotel and take off the backpack and just sit down.

Here are my totals for the day from my iPhone:
15.8 miles
45,514 steps
Good night, Buen Camino.

In St. Jean, France the starting point of the Camino de Santiago.

I finally got to sleep last night in Pamplona around 1:30. The good news is that I slept in until 11:30 just a half an hour before my transfer to St. Jean France.

I worked on what I was and was not going to take with me to get the weight down and it worked out well. I left behind nearly four pounds which is really significant and will make the journey over the mountain a bit less challenging.

When I first looked out the window it was raining. Once outside the rain was very light and the temperature was around 80 but comfortable. My driver was right on time and we made the usually 90 minute trip in record time. I don’t know how fast he was going but he was hell bent on passing anything in front of him. The road is both narrow and winding, lots of tight curves. I think he may be practicing for Monaco. In the end we did get there quickly and I could sense that he was proud of his time ... almost like he was looking for the checkered flag.

I am staying at the Hotel Ramuntcho, small but very clean. My room, which I sent a picture of is small and the bed isn’t a sleep number unit. I was going to use Mike’s all purpose check in line ...
“I am a Marriott Lifetime Platinum Member” in an attempt to get upgraded but I’m sure it would not help. Therarno suites in this hotel. The room is fine.

I checked in and then headed to the Camino office to register and have my Camino credential stamped and signed by the Camino volunteer. That makes me officially on the Camino.

 
Given the forecast for tomorrow I’m not sure if I will buy a poncho. It’s really warm and humid here and the poncho turns into a sweat chamber so I’m leaning in the direction of just wearing my rain proof light weight pullover. First I will visit a local Camino shop to see if they have a newer version with a zipper front. While I’m out looking at ponchos I will also by the water for tomorrow along with a piece of fruit. I will by a sandwich for tomorrow just before I check out of the hotel, that should be more than enough to get me through the day.

Well I bought the poncho. It has a full frontal zipper which makes it easier to put on and take off. The Camino shop here is well stocked with just about anything you need. Nice people. I asked about the weather and they went on line and the forecast calls for a temperature of 90 in St. Jean but at the top of the mountain it say a high of 56 degrees. That’s quite a change and that will mean multiple wardrobe changes along the way.

Dinner here in St. Jean was simply a pizza and a glass of wine. Carbing up for tomorrow. It’s easy to tell that I’m no longer in Spain because everything is twice the price but still reasonable. The village is crawling with tourists. Lots of young families ... it’s August and that’s when most of the Europeans take their holiday. I did see a few pilgrims arriving late today but over all the Camino people are a very small percentage of the visiting population.

Up early, a quick breakfast and then onto the Camino. First stop Roncesvalles Spain a walk of 18 miles adjusted for the increase elevation of nearly 5000 feet.

Thanks to all of those who have sent lots of messages and prayers for a safe journey. I’ll do my best. Good night, Buen Camino

On my way ... no turning back now.

Well the day has arrived and I am sitting on a flight to Madrid. I have another six hours to go and then a quick connection to Pamplona on a puddle jumper which will get me there around 4:00pm local time. Check into the hotel take a short walk to Hemingway’s bar directly across the street and have an early dinner.

I should be tired enough at that time to crash and get a good nights sleep. Staying at the Hotel La Perla here in Pamplona gives me the option of reducing the weight of my backpack for the first three days because the Camino takes me back to Pamplona on the third day. I just take out whatever I will not need for those three days and leave it at the hotel and retrieve it when I return on the 27th. Given the fact that the first two days are very difficult the reduced weight will be welcomed. Robin came up with the idea on my first Camino. It was a great idea then just as it is now.

I packed this morning and went over the list a number of times fully believing that each time I checked I was sure I had forgotten something. Obviously there are critical items which can’t be left behind. Passport, medication, credit cards and a number of other must haves. Given the fact that I have been known to forget to bring things and or leave them behind helps to create doubt when it comes to things like packing for a trip or packing to go on a 500 mile walk carrying everything you only remembered to bring.

I packed everything I had on my must have list and then weighed the backpack. Much to my surprise the weight was almost two pounds under the target weight of 20 pounds. That lead to my increased belief that I must have missed something which in turn got me to unpack, check the contents and pack again. I repeated this process three times until I was finally convinced that I was good to go. Just for the record when Robin was backing out of the garage to take me to LAX I had her stop and I got out and pulled my backpack out of the trunk and once again checked to be sure that I had my passport, medication and credit cards. Yes, they were all there.

The reduced weight also caused me to consider bringing along a few other items; extra socks, shorts, chargers and a few little things and I was soon back to the target 20 pound weight. I did not include my walking poles in the weigh in because I will be using them more often than just carrying them and I could not attach them anyway because TSA won’t let you carry them on. I went to Fedex and bought a shipping tube and packed the poles in the tube with the hopes that I could check them through to Pamplona to avoid having to buy another pair. Robin warned me that because I had to book the flights using to separate tickets there was a string possibility that. Iberia would not check the poles to Pamplona which would mean I would have to get them at baggage claim and check then again to Pamplona. That was not an option.

Robin was correct ... when I went to the ticket counter at LAX I was told that they could not check them through to Pamplona. I explained to the agent that I would not have enough time to do that so I would just have to leave them behind and buy a new pair when I got to the Camino. I got lucky because the agent went to see her manager and somehow she managed to have them checked to Pamplona. Clearly a good first step and hopefully a sign of what’s to come.

Robin and I’m had a quick lite lunch and I was off to the gate. A very long line of people and with no TSA pre-check it was slow. I am still amazed at how many people appear to be going through security for the first time ... ID and boarding pass not ready, shoes on, water bottles, cell phone in their pocket,  etc etc. it never fails that the people I just described are destined to be just ahead of me in line.

Oh I forgot to mention that two friends gave me a great send off gift ... a package of a dozen dark black sunglasses to take with me! They remembered that on my first Camino I managed to lose six pairs of glasses. I thought it was a very creative and meaningful gift but I only brought along just one extra pair because of the added weight and a lack of room in the backpack... but it was a great idea.

Only about five hours to go so I will try to get a little sleep but I’m not optimistic. Good night, Buen Camino.

The ten day forecast ... day one.

The forecast for my Camino start is currently showing an 80% chance of rain with thunderstorms and winds of 6 mph. This will require a wardrobe adjustment. The temperature over the Pyrenees for day one calls for a high of 64 degrees which actually is a nice walking temperature. If the forecast holds I know I will get wet so I will need to make a decision about going with or without a poncho. The poncho clearly helps keep you dry but also is very restricting. It's impossible to get to anything from the backpack without the hassle of taking it off and then trying to get it back on over the backpack without some assistance. There is a good Camino shop in Pamplona which may have a poncho that zips up in the front making the process of taking it off a bit less difficult. I will visit them on my arrival day.

I had a poncho on the last Camino which I had to buy because it rained so much I was wet nearly all of the time. I did buy one that had sleeves which makes it more comfortable but they were to long so I just cut them off. The other downside of wearing a poncho is that it gets hot under that personal tent, sometimes really hot. In the end it helped but I was still wet just not completely wet. This is where you begin to see the challenge you face with having only a backpack and limited wardrobe options. For those taking the "donkey service" that big suitcase brings with it lots of options which result in dry clothes at the end of the day and much more ... no complaints all part of the journey.

What's better, cooler temperatures with rain or warmer temperatures without the rain? I guess that depends on the length of that days walk and the degree of difficulty. Flat or lots of elevation changes? Obviously a temperature of 64 degrees without the rain would be fantastic but that just won't happen. At this point as long as I can find the right poncho and the wind is not out of control I will opt for the best chance to stay as dry as possible.

I am closing in on my last few training days. Today was a ten miler with temperatures around 80 so it  was comfortable. I opted not to wear the backpack because I decided to give myself a break. I also decided to walk the entire ten miles without stopping as an offset to the lack of weight. The good news is that it was not a problem and I also know that once on the Camino breaks will be taken as needed. It was comfortable near the beach with a nice breeze and above normal surf.

It does not matter how many times I walk this route it is always surprising to watch the toutists try to figure out how to walk on a path while recognizing that there may be others they need to share that space with. Throw in the locals with multiple dogs and it's like an obstacle course. There was one difference today ... the location along the trail where volunteers provide a meal to the homeless was not active today. Normally the food distribution starts around 5:00 and it's always in the same place, not today.

Once I was home and recovered I checked the ten day weather forecast for St. Jean France again and was pleasantly surprised to see that the revised forecast now calls for only a 20% chance of rain on my first day on the Camino with temperatures in the mid 60's as I go over the top of the Pirennes. That's a big upgrade from the forecast I looked at just two days ago ... of course it can change again so I'll just keep my fingers crossed. I am now just one week away from taking that first step.

Buen Camino.

Are you ready?

Time is quickly running out and as I get closer to my return to the Camino the question I am asked most is ... are you ready? Most often my response is simply yes, I think I am. Truthfully I don't really know the answer to the question. Two days ago I was about to go on an eight to ten miler late in the day but was delayed by a couple of calls. As the day wore on I became more focused on the weather and the air quality.

We live in Southern California not far from where the large and very dangerous Holy fire is still raging and we are now dealing with the smoke from the fire. I was getting ready to get started but in the end the combination of smoke and with the temperature above 90 I decided to cancel the plan for the day. It was only a short time later that I began feeling a bit guilty about not going which in turn caused me to question my preparation. Am I ready? Once I arrive in St Jean there won't be any delay or cancellation options and when I checked the weather in St Jean today it was clear and the temperature was 87 so it's hot. The summer in most of Europe has been both hot and dry causing drought conditions not recently seen.

The weather is certainly a major piece of the puzzle and it will need to be dealt with. Today, three days after I canceled because of weather I was back out again training on a local trail. It was hot. The temperature when I started was above 90 but the air quality was okay. I brought 80 ounces of water with me and drank it all in a walk of only seven miles. I did not see anyone else on the trail today which was unusual given the fact that it's Saturday. Perhaps that was a sign that it was too hot to be out there. It was a good work out for me with my new polls and a number of small but meaningful hills with lots of dust kicking up making it easy to break a drenching sweat.

Once home I was a bit surprised by how sore I was given the relatively short distance. Perhaps the two days off was the cause. My next scheduled walk will be late on Tuesday and it will also be a short seven or eight miles with about the same temperature perhaps a few degrees cooler. Am I ready? I don't know but I think I am. How ready was I the last time? I was prepared but not as well as well as I was for the first Camino that I'm sure about. How prepared am I now when I think anout  the first two? I am not as well prepared as the first but I think I'm better prepared than the second. What I can't factor in is weather and the additional candles in my last birthday cake.

I do know this ... I am feeling very much the same as I did on both of the other Camino's when it comes to the mental preparation. I am beginning to feel a bit excited, concerned, doubtful, anxious and confident all in varying degrees depending on when you ask me. The only thing I'm certain of is that I won't know just how ready I am until I take that first step onto the Camino on the 25th. All I can do now is to continue to prepare as best I can and wait. Buen Camino.

Getting ready to go ... Camino number three.

My third Camino de Santiago is only 23 days away. I start my third Camino on August 25th from St Jean in south western France. It is often called the Way of Saint James, also the French Way or the Napoleon Way. I will cover the distance of 500 miles in 34 days. 

I have been training off and on for the past three months but I have just begun the more serious training. By serious training I mean that I now carry my backpack with about 23 pounds ... 20 pounds of gear and three pounds of water. My immediate goal is to break in my new Camino shoes, a pair of low rise Northface shoes with firm toes to handle the rocks or as I like to call them ... the Spanish Potatoes. I also will refer to my shoes as my "Limo's" while my feet are my "Passengers". I do believe that training for endurance and strength are vital to completing the Camino. Nothing is more important than having both your Limo's and Passenger's as well prepared as possible. If this part of the training comes up short it will mean that I will suffer with blisters or worse yet that those blisters will put an end to the Camino long before I have completed the 500 miles. I have had blisters on my first two Camino's which were not only expected but could be dealt with. I have also seen others who had blisters which were so bad that they were hospitalized and had their journey end painfully. 

My step up in training began in earnest two weeks ago when I upped my training distance with a 16 mile day with 23 pounds. I was tired and sour at the end but no blister issues. The real measure of how well your training is advancing is how long it takes to recover. For me that is just how ready I am the next morning when I first get out of bed. Sore? Yes, but able to go back out and do it again is what matters. The time it takes to cover whatever distance you are facing for the day does not matter. The only thing that matters is that you cover the distance without injury ... it is not a race.

I was fortunate to have just spent five days with friends in Jackson Wyoming aka Freedom Wyoming. It is difficult to adequately describe just how beautiful their home is at the Double LL Ranch. Spectacular is a good word but still falls short. While there, I was able to get in two training days, a ten and a seven miler both without any weight. It was warm but it was also flat so the distances were not a problem .. the challenge that I had not taken into consideration was the elevation of nearly sixty-five hundred feet. I was far more tired at the end of these two days than I had been carrying twenty three pounds and covering sixteen miles at sea level. 

On day one of my Camino which starts in St. Jean France, the starting altitude is 590 feet above sea level but on that fist day I will be going up and over the Pyrenees's with the climb going up to 4719 feet. Day one ends in Roncesvalles Spain which is at 3100 feet above sea level. The first day will be difficult with good weather and very difficult if conditions are less than ideal. The temperature change as you climb up and over the mountain is a bit of a challenge and requires some planning for what to wear and what to have in your backpack for potential changing weather conditions.

A new addition to my training is walking the golf course and carrying my bag. The golf bag weighs 22 pounds which is an ideal match to what I expect my backpack will weigh. On my first day carrying my golf bag I did not have ideal conditions. The temperature had risen to 104 ... well above average and not what I had planned on. In all honesty it was not a good decision. There were five of us playing ... the other four were in golf carts as I walked and did my best not to fall behind. I tracked the number of steps and the actual distance I walked. In the end it turned out to be 6.5 miles. While the distance was not an issue there were a number of challenges. First the weather. There was no reason to walk and carry at 104 degrees, it was just foolish. The second challenge was that I did not sit down once in the four and a half hours I was out there. No matter what conditions I will face on the Camino I will never be faced with not being able to stop, take off my backpack and just sit, rest and hydrate. The last challenge came with about an hour and a half to go. There was a short but intense rain and hail storm which resulted in getting quite wet which also made everything feel heavier. Once the storm passed and the sun returned, the humidity skyrocketed which made the walk even more uncomfortable. I did get a blister but not on the either of the passengers ... on my left thumb. Stopping and starting as we played meant that I was taking off the golf bag, hitting a shot and then throwing the bag back on as I marched to try and keep up. The straps kept getting tangled as I walked and my attempts to slide the bag into a comfortable position resulted in the blood blister. I won't make this mistake again. I will get a new bag with better straps and I will not walk for four and a half hours without sitting and I will not walk and carry if the temperature is above 90 degrees. For the record I did not play well! All part of the journey.

The training continues and I feel like I'm on schedule. I covered 17 miles on Monday and Tuesday and also had a very heart pounding workout with Donovan on Tuesday and on Wednesday morning I felt well recovered. The Camino questions continue to surprise me. I bumped into an old friend I had not seen in quite a long time and he asked me if I was still doing that walking thing. I told him yes and also mentioned that I was going again in August. He laughed and then asked if I would make it? He went on to comment that he would hate to see Robin have to travel to Spain to get my ashes just like in the movie The Way. That was an interesting comment followed by a question I get often ... Why are you doing it again? There are many reasons like helping to raise money for a great cause, it's a challenge, the solitude and more but the answer I gave was "because I can". I'm not sure how much longer that may be true so if I don't go now I may find myself looking back regretting that I could have but I didn't. None of us can predict the future so I'm going now while I can still manage the physical challenge. I don't think anyone could count the number of people who have put off doing something they really wanted to do and ended up finding themselves forever regretting the decision to delay once the opportunity was gone for ever. I asked him if there is anything he wished he had done that he put off and now finds himself regretting it forever? He didn't respond. 

Fifteen days to go until I get on a flight to Madrid. Arrive on August 22nd and then a short flight to Pamplona where I will stay one night and then on the 24th take a car service to St. Jean in south western France where the Camino starts. My actual Camino starts when I step onto the Camino in St. Jean on August 25th.

Today was a solid training day. First an hour workout with Donovan and then strapped on my backpack and went on a 10 mile walk. It was warm and that's good because when I get to France it will also be warm. The first day up and over the Pyrenees with cooler temperatures as the elevation increases will be a welcome change.

I have made my list of all the items which I will carry in my backpack. I will soon get it all together so that I can pack the bag and weigh it. The target maximum is 22 pounds. If that is exceeded I will need to decide which items won't make the trip. My backpack today including 40 ounces of water weighed 22 pounds but that's because I stuffed it with towels, golf balls and weights. It's the real weight created by what I'm really taking that counts. The list of items to pack is up to 40. Most weigh almost nothing but need to be listed and packed. Items like medication, my passport, phone charger, shaving kit and many more will add up in the end... it all counts.

I completed 40 miles over the past seven days which is good and puts me on track in my training. I read an interesting summary of statistics today about the breakdown of the age groups walking the Camino. The largest group of Pilgrims was the under age 30 group with a total of 26%. My age group, over 60 totaled just above 15%. The more interesting stat involved how far the average age groups walked. The largest group at 26% walked only 60 miles from Sarria which is the shortest distance needed to be eligible for the Compostela. Those who walked the entire 500 miles accounted for 15% of all Pilgrims and those who completed the 500 miles in the over age 60 group totaled just 2% of all Pilgrims awarded the Compostela. My actual age group was less than 1% of the total. Men made up 52% of the total and women 48%. These totals only represent those who completed the Camino. Those who started but did not finish were not included in the statistics. 

While I expect this third Camino to be different than the first two I can say that all three have one thing in common. It's very difficult to find the time to train. Weekends and late afternoons continue to be where most of the training can be accomplished. Simply put it's just hard to find the time needed. The majority of my weekdays are dedicated to my work which involves lots of time on the phone among other things. It continues to be the biggest challenge in getting prepared for the Camino.

Next post soon ... Buen Camino.