The smallest room I have ever stayed in ..... My change in expectations make it very comfortable.

It's Thursday the 30th of May and this will be my 14th consecutive day of walking The Camino. I feel really good, stronger actually. I know how silly that may sound but it is true. That does not mean I can explain it. There is something that does help me get started each day. Messages from friends and family that I read before I dress and pack for that day's walk. 

 Each day has one thing in common. I know that I have never seen or been in all of the places I will walk through today. It will all be new and therefore a bit more interesting but also a bit more worrisome.

After I wake and before I begin packing I will look at my email. It's my connection to the people I care most about. I got off to a good start today. 

My day started with a terrific message from Tony Baloney ( it's what I call him ) a friend I have come to know over the past seven years because we are connected by a friend, Big Johnny 1438 from Scottsdale. Thank you Tony. You have no idea how much your message helped me get started today. 

The weather looks very good and when I open my window I can feel a bit of a chill. Great walking temperature. I completed my packing and have added a few small items like the laundry powder which adds a little weight. That's ok because I have decided that I will also leave the rain pants behind. All in all I think it's about even resulting in no change in the weight of my backpack .

I arrive at the breakfast room and Michele is there just getting started. Today's offerings include the

usual carb choices but today we also have scrambled eggs and fruit. I will have a little of everything along with orange juice and my cafe-con leche.

As we start eating we both find it odd that Rainer is not there. Normally he is the first to breakfast but not today. When thirty minutes pass Michele decides to call his room. No answer. A visit to the front desk and we are told that he has already checked out.

It's a bit odd because he said 9:30 and if he decided to go early, which is fine , we both would guess that he would have left us a message. We wait a little longer but decide at 10:30 we must leave. 

The walk out of the city is much better than my entrance route. We walk through Santa Maria square past the Cathedral and we are shortly on The Camino. The distance between Burgos and our destination, Hornillos del Camino will be 13 miles and it will be flat. 

Unlike other segments, today's will have very few potential places to stop for coffee along the way. We will stop in Tarjados but that can certainly change depending on a variety of things.

Our pace is fast. Yes, fast. The trail is flat and the sun is warm. There is a breeze with a temperature I'm guessing of about 60 degrees.  We will soon stop to make wardrobe changes. I will take off the rain jacket and at first it will be a little cold. It won't take long for that to change at the pace we are moving at right now.

I stop on occasion to take a picture which creates a gap between Michele and I. Camino rules, not a problem. As I close the gap with Michele I can see ahead two people sitting, taking a break. Michele is talking with them and starts to move again just begore I arrive. It's the Weather Girl!

The Weather Girl has found a young guy to walk with. She has one of her Nike running shoes off and as I past them she is on her feet being helped by her walking partner. She has her arm around his shoulder as he try's to help her put back on the shoe. Just ahead is a long downhill section which will require the use of poles which will cause them a problem.

As I walk past them at a good pace I know she recognizes me but says nothing. Just think, that could have been me! Sometimes I make good decisions.

I am soon along side Michele again and we agree that we have covered about six miles. We approach a small town, nothing unusual and as we turn near the end of the town we are greeted by "Michele  Michele", Fernando and Nelly. They call us to join them for coffee and we do. Margaret the older, small German lady is there as well as Anna from Brazil. The first time I met Anna a couple of days ago I think I may have referred to her as French. 

Coffee and a Coke Zero, a few pictures with everyone's camera and a cookie from Fernando's endless stash and Michele and I are on our way. The Brazilians started their walk today at least an hour and a half ahead of us and we are now in front of them. We will see them at the end of the day.

The walk is uneventful and we arrive in Hornillos del Camino at about 3:30. Actually Michele was ahead of me by about twenty minutes because of my camera work. 

I walk into this very small village and enter the cafe and I am greeted by a loud collective "Jim, Jim from California". Michele, Emma, Emily and Elaine.  Michele is holding court and is also busy trying to find a room. There are none in the village not even in the Albergue. Rainer is not in the village and has not been seen.

There is a bottle of wine which the girls have purchased for three Euro. Just a reminder, that is about $4 US, retail. I pass and order a small beer on tap. The  counter guy asks if there is anyone named Michele? Yes and Michele is now in a conversation and gathering information.

As it turns out Rainer did leave early and is staying in a Hotel that is about two miles off The Camino and he has secured a room for Michele. The Hotel will send a van at 5:30 to pick him up and take him to this offsite location. Michele is very happy and decides to buy a very nice bottle of wine at a cost of ten Euro which we will all drink while waiting for the van. 

Michele's transfer is similar to what happened to me in Los Arcos but my transfer was in a Police car .... far more interesting.

The van arrives and Michele is off. The pilgrims dinner is in just fifteen minutes so I will just stay and have dinner and then head back to my Hotel.  

There are five of us for dinner. Me, Nelly, Fernando, Emma and Emily. Emily is a physical therapist working in a hospital in Sweden age 26,  Emma age 27, is thinking about work or school. 

Emma tells us all that its her Father's  birthday. I can see what Nelly is thinking as she interrupts for Fernando. There isn't any Internet service or wifi but there is a phone booth. I can't remember when I last saw a phone booth. I ask Emma if she is going to call her Father? She then decides to call and asks if we will all get in the booth to sing Happy Birthday to him. Everyone agrees, yes we will do it.

Emma calls but her Father is not home but will be back in ten minutes. False alarm as our salads arrive. As we finish the salads Emma try's again and yes he is there. She waves us to get into the booth as she speaks with her Father in Swedish.

On cue, we all begin singing Happy Birthday to Emma's Father. Nelly and Fernando in Portuguese , Emma and Emily in Swedish and me in English. When it comes time in the song to inject the persons name none of us know what to call him so it just gets garbled. We finish the song and there is loud applause from all of the other pilgrims just sitting down to eat. I think Emma is happy that she decided to call. I know Nelly is.

Dinner is over and I head back to my Hotel to take care of the gear and to complete some writing. It is 7:30. Any early night, perfect.

I enter my room and it is really small. I have to turn sideways to get past the end of the bed in order to get to the bathroom. The bed fills nearly all of the room. It's at this point that I realize that I don't care. It's clean and I am tired. 

I decide to take inventory of all of the things I would ordinarily expect in a Hotel room which I now don't find all that important. Here is a what I could think of. I'm sure I missed a couple of things.

My little room does not have, a phone, soap, shampoo, a shower cap, conditioner, a closet, a mini-bar, glasses, a cork screw, room service, more than one light, an extra towel, an iron or an ironing board, a television, a radio, a wake up call service, a bathtub, a scale, a night stand, a cable guide, a high end shopping guide, an extra pillow, a free tooth brush, a ceiling fan run by remote control, a do not disturb sign to hang on the door, a patio, an ashtray, free bottled water, a coffee maker, carpeting, a chair, a sofa, a table, pen and paper with the Hotel's logo, a free post card, a comb or brush, a hair dryer, a thermostat, wifi , a Bible, hangers, slippers and last but not least a turn down service. 

I'm sure I have over looked a number of other things I would normally expect to find in my Hotel room. Perhaps you can think of something I missed.

I'm tired, good night.

Dinner and a Bull fight .... It's not much of a fight and it sure isn't fair.

II run out from my Hotel here in Burgos having completed stage 15, I need to get a few things , I am out of Tide. Can't believe I just wrote that but it's true. My focus on The Camino is very different from what I would normally be concerned with if I were back in Capistrano. 

I find the Supermercado a short distance from the Hotel. There is nothing "Super" about it. We are so spoiled. This "Super" market is not as large as the wine and deli sections of our "Super" markets at home. If the people who are in this market right now could just see what the difference is I doubt they would believe it.

I don't find any Tide packets but I do see a box of powered detergent that has on its cover a picture of clothing items being washed by hand? It's called Veep. I will buy it. The box is much to big but that's not a problem, I will just poor some of it into a zip lock bag and leave the rest behind.

Back to the Hotel and a quick shower. 

By the way now is as good a time as any to get this on the record. I have lost my second pair of sun glasses. For those of you keeping score I believe that's item number three. Update your records.

I meet Michele and Rainer in the lobby at 7:00. Rainer will lead the way to a restaurant he has been to before. I know it will be good because Rainer has taste. He takes us through a stunning part of the city past the Cathedral de Santa Marie built in the 13th century and then over the river past the most famous stature in the city. It's the statue of El Cid, born in 1040. His house is not far and The Camino passes close by. Can you say tourist?

We arrive at the restaurant, Don Jamon. As Rainer has already explained there will not be any pilgrims here, it's strictly locals. We will feast on a continuing selection of Tapas. The food is just as good as I knew it would be and the wine is even better. 

When we arrived in Burgos we entered a new wine region. We are no longer in Rioja, we are now in the Ribera wine region. Rainer orders a bottle of T-Danguix. I think it was 2009, not sure but I can tell you that it was very good. Hard to believe that it costs about $14 US! Keep in mind that's the restaurant price. 

Now for the hard part about dinner. We are in a favorite local restaurant and on one of its walls facing out table directly is a very large flat screen television, probably the sixty or seventy inch variety and for as long as we are there the Bull fights are on.

I understand that Bull fighting has a long history in Spain and that the people watch it with great passion. I am watching and also getting an education on what is taking place. The patrons at the bar and in the restaurant are cheering and I am told with the introduction of each bull there is great and very animated debate about the "quality" of the Bull. As each Bull is brought into the arena where some 20,000  people are watching live the details on each Bull is scrolling across the screen. The Bull's name, his owner and his age and weight are for all to see. The first Bull I see on the screen weighs 1200 pounds and as I learn quickly he had no chance of winning the "fight", none. 

What the patrons are debating is if the Bull is fast enough, angry enough and willing to make the Matadors have to work hard to kill him. There are as many as six Matadors surrounding the Bull when he is finally dead, but during the "fight" there is one primary Matador who everyone will be cheering for. He is a rock star.

I watch only one event in spite of the fact that while I am sitting there at least ten Bulls are tortchered and put to death. I am certain I will never watch a Bull "fight" again.  

We finish dinner and the bill is about $18 US each, wine, food tax and tip included. The Bull fighting front row seat was free, no charge.

We are on are way back to the Hotel and Rainer makes sure we return by a different route in order to see a little more of the city. The weather is perfect and walking is not a problem for any of us. I think you can understand why.

We stop at a small cafe, bar and Rainer orders three coffee drinks called Cararrio. I have no idea how to spell it but its a very small espresso with a touch of brandy. Hard to believe but it actually helps get you to sleep. I can't explain it, you know the coffee part. 

While we are there Michele spots something he wants to try. Olives with small pieces of sardines in olive oil. I try the olives, they are very good. I pass on the sardines, Rainer and Michele will not let them go to waste. 

We head back to the Hotel. It's 11:00 . Plenty of time for a good night's rest. We agree to meet for breakfast at or around 9:30. Tomorrow will be stage 15, a walk of 13 miles to Hornillos del Camino.

 

Before I sign off I want to tell you that I am trying my best not to over use words or word combinations like amazing, unbelievable, beautiful, fantastic, nicest, spectacular, unforgettable and many others. It's just not easy. I trust you will cut me some slack. I know two teachers who will. Good night.

Bethany Shea ..... 1942 --2012 .

This is the continuation of my walk from San Juan de Ortega to Burgos. I am leaving the " village of  8 rooms " and a population of 20 to walk 15.9 miles to the city of Burgos with a population of 166,000. Quite a contrast.   There will be one very significant elevation change along the way and nearly half the distance will be on paved roads as I approach the City.

The weather girl was correct, it's cold and the wind is blowing at about 20 miles per hour.  If she really wants to be a weather girl she should allso include in her summary a wind chill factor. 

The Camino leaving Ages is very similar in its terrain until I am facing the hill. It's nothing but rocks. Rocks of all shapes and sizes and none of the trail has been spared, I will have no dance moves which will help me avoid this challenge. My Limos and poles are veterans and ready to go.

The climb is made slower by the wind. It's direction is directly into me, a head win. Several stops to complete the climb are needed. No hurry, avoiding mistakes that would turn an ankle are far more Important than speed. 

As I reach the half way point I can see the Cross at the top of the hill. I can also see the large collection if rocks at its base. I won't know how tall it is or the size and number of rocks until I reach the top.

When I finally reach the top I can now see just how large it is. The rocks have been placed there by pilgrims at the base of The Cross. The pilgrims have also left behind other personal items.

I begin to see items just beneath the rocks. Notes and pictures many impossible to see completely because of the rock cover. I am about to turn away and get back to The Camino when I look down one more time and there it is. 

Almost as if it was meant to be seen by me there is one picture beneath the rocks which is completely visible. A picture of a woman looking right at me. It has on it above her picture only her name 

 Beverly Shea. Just beneath her picture the dates 1942 - 2012. It's a nice picture and she looks like a nice person. Someone close to her has placed it here beneath The Cross. A message to that person or persons ... The picture is still in good condition and she looks happy.

The Camino on its way to Burgos is different from many other parts I have walked since I started in St. Jean. Until now the villages were separated by significant distances. Today they are much closer together and they appear to be more in need of repair. Perhaps it's the City effect . The Closer you get to the City the closer all of its typical problems become exposed. I don't know maybe I'm just reading to much into it.

At about nine miles the Camino changes from trail to pavement at in increasing rate. Traffic and noise are the norm. This has been by far the least attractive walk. With about three or four miles to go I am walking along a very narrow strip of pavement facing the rushing traffice which are now primarily trucks, very big trucks. I feel like I'm walking toward Newark New Jersey on I-95. There won't be many pictures taken today.

I am now entering the outer fringes of the city so I decide to stop and take a look at my map. The last big city I entered was Longrono and getting through it was a real challenge.

I am looking at the map and its shows two Camino routes into the city from where I am. The primary route is always marked in yellow and the alternate route is marked in green. I have been walking for 14 days on the yellow route , I'm not about to change.

For the next two hours I am walking through some rundown industrial area that is a mixture of ugly buildings sprinkled in between some really ugly buildings! If this two hour walk is representative of what Burgos is I will be looking forward to tomorrow's  exit.

I am finally in the part of the city which helps me to immediately forget the last two hours. It's very beautiful. The Cathedral of Burgos is stunning and it is big. Pictures once again begin making sense. Only one problem . I am no closer to figuring out where my hotel is now anymore than I was two hours ago. I know I have walked well past 15 miles . 

As I am wandering through small side streets trying to find the Feran Gonzalez Boutique Hotel I nearly step on an old lady who is sitting on the ground surrounded by all of her worldly positions and holding a small wooden bowl. 

I solve my Pamplona error and she is stunned by what I place in her bowl. She is thanking me continuously as I walk away. Finally the better ending I referred to back on stage four or five. I'm tired and I take a seat in the Plaza Of Santa Maria. I am reading my guide book and map when an older Spanish gentlemen asks "where are you going ?"

I show him the map and he politely tells me that I am a good distance from my Hotel and shows me how many turns I will need to make successfully in order to find my Hotel . He pauses, points and says "taxi". These people are nice and they are smart too.

I find the taxi stand drop my backpack into the trunk and I am in the taxi for about 15 minutes. There would have been no way for me to have found this location to say nothing of the fact that I had walked past my destination by about a mile and a half.

I am tired and I need to find a Supermercado to pick up a few things. First I will check in and rest for a few minutes . As I check in the desk clerk hands me a note about meeting Michele and Rainer for dinner at 7:00. I don't have much time so the rest will need to be put off. 

I need to stop today's post and get my shopping taken care of. Then a shower and dinner. I will catch up tomorrow from here and then its on to stage 15, a nice walk of 13 miles from Burgos to Horrnillos del Camino.

Good night.

. 

I am hungry and I don't want to talk about the weather ..... The weather girl does not like me.

I will complete my 13th day today on The Camino. This is stage 13, I am on my way to Burgos a walk of 15.9 miles which I will turn into at least 17 miles. No I did not get lost, I will explain later. Before I post stage 13, I would like to catch up on a few items which I have either discussed before or did not include in a prior post that may be of interest. 

 A quick update on the Camino missing in action. It's day 13 of the journey and I have not seen Mee-Sue since Michele put a bandage on her knee. I don't think she is ahead of us.

The 17 year old girl who I gave the name Sofia to is doing fine. We saw her at our free outdoor concert with Kevin and Edward in Belorado. She is safe and walking with a group of people who are younger and moving at a very aggressive pace. Sofia ( I actually know her real name but I will just call her Sofia) has reduced the weight of her backpack by getting rid of several books and will leave The Camino in the next two days to return to school. I give her a lot of credit for her courage for what she has done but I agree with her Father ... I would have said no.

Big Billy is somewhere up ahead and I may see him again. I hope so, Big Billy is a gentle giant that you would all like to be around as long as Dortmund is not getting beat. Hopefully his feet are better.

Janet from Indiana has not been seen for several days. She may just be lagging behind after a rest or she may have ended her Camino in Estrella. 

The young Japanese couple I met several days ago when she could hardly walk are most likely gone. Her injury just appeared to be to serious to consider going on. The Camino has no limits on injury. Young and Old will be tested .

Jerry from Boston is healing his blisters and will be leaving The Camino in the morning. His plan is to return to the Camino this summer to complete the walk.  He plans to break-in his new shoes long before he returns, good idea.

Fernando and Nelly are here in Burgos but Nelly is having some problems. I know it's not uncommon to have an injury end your Camino long before Santiago but I hope they will be with me there on June 19th when I enter the Cathedral of Saint James. I hope that she gets to complete The Camino If that's what she wants to do.

 Now on to stage 13, San Juan De Ortega to Burgos.

I am no longer concerned with my Camino grade. I have decided on a new grading system. I will use the grades given to me by three teachers not just one. Paul will continue to grade me just like the East German Judge grades the US diver in the Olympics, you know 6.5 out of a possible 10. That's ok because I have decided to appoint as the other two giving me a grade on my Camino blog two recently retired teachers. My brother Rick and my sister-in-law Jill. 

I am now no longer concerned with having to repeat The Camino based on one very tough teacher's grading process. One last comment on my most recent blogs. I have really tried to edit them as best I can but the combination of typing on my iPad mini, the size of my fingers and the fact that I am tired is just making it difficult. Sorry.

It is 8:30 and I am in no hurry to leave but I want out of this eight room village. I am just waiting for it to warm up just a little. It is cold. Not chilly,  it's cold. Here's what I am facing today. A nearly 16 mile walk, at least two very steep hills and then as it turns out I will enter the city of Burgos and take the wrong route, there are two. That is where the extra mile will come from. If I could read a map better I could have avoided this but I think it's just a reminder of how spoiled I am because of the GPS woman who is somewhere hiding in my dashboard. You know her, she's the one who says "in 200 feet make a legal U turn! " I don't like her.

This blog will need to be finished later. I returned to the Hotel after dinner with Rainer and Michele later than expected. More on that soon but just a short comment, it's really great having your own guide and as I suspected the choice of restaurant was terrific. In addition there will likely be limited wifi at our next stop. Oh by the way here in Spain it's pronounced we-fee.

Here is how it starts. I return my key to the combination front desk, bar, and potato chip restaurant. I will have a coffee before I go. There are none of the usual carb choices . I have not had  any real food for 24 hours and that was a small bocadillo. It's cold . I'm about to find out just how cold. In walks this young woman, probably in or just out of college. I will soon give her the name "weather girl".

I am just finishing my coffee when she walks in. I say Hola and she responds in English "it's cold, really really cold". She continues, "it's minus 1", "it's really, cold", really cold ". 

I know it's cold and I know why she is "really, really cold". She is dressed like she on the way to Nordstroms to buy a different pair of running shoes from the ones she is wearing . "May I join you?"

Yes but I'm just finishing my coffee and I need to get out of this place to walk about two miles in search of something to eat so I am not going to sit here for another twenty minutes while she drinks her coffee. I am also getting a vibe that she may be looking for a walking companion. That's not going to happen. I have no interest in having her join me. I don't know her pace, I don't want to wait and I have no interest in getting a weather update every fifty feet. I'm out of here.

The next village is Ages is small but bigger than San Juan, which does not make Ages unique. I pass the first cafe. I don't know why given my interest in getting something to eat. It turns out to be a good decision. I spot the next cafe, it's fifty feet away. I go in and I am blown away at just how beautiful this little place is. I have sent pictures which I hope Robin will post. 

The cafe is spotless. The woman behind the counter greets me like I am her favorite son just returning from war. I am the only customer. The meat and cheese choices are extensive. I don't know how this place can survive. 

I order a coffee-con leche and she says "grande ?" Sure why not. As I drink my coffee she is creating  a bocadillo which has two types of ham which she slices as thin as you can imagine and adds cheese , tomato and drizzles a bit of olive oil, adds salt and pepper and I am in heaven. 

The bocadillo is also made with the bread she has just remove from her oven. It is so big that I will eat only half and have the rest for lunch. I also buy a bottle of juice and a small bar of dark Swiss chocolate, an energy boost. I pay  the 5 Euro , thank her and I'm on my way.

I have been there for about 30 minutes. I step outside and who do I see? It's the weather girl. I greet her "Hola" and she stares at me says nothing and gives me a look like I have insulted her. I have now officially made my first enemy on The Camino.  You can imagine how bad I feel. If you can you have me confused with someone else. I could care less.

I have learned many things in walking nearly 179 miles about The Camino rules, one of which is if I want to walk alone for whatever reason you must respect that wish and move on. She knows about as much about Camino rules as she dies about footwear.  

I am also sending now a picture of my next car. I spotted it on the way out of Ages. It's a beauty. It has a spoiler so it must be fast! I'm not sure about the color I will order but I know it won't be red .... I already own a red car. Robin will post the picture. You will be jealous .

That's it for now . I need to get the Limos on and get back on The Camino. Have a good day and to all my friends playing in the Dove Member Guest, "hit it where they mow."

San Juan de Ortega .... A village so small it has only eight Hotel rooms, Sharel gets me one!

I don't know why but I am just not organized this morning. I did get a good night's sleep but I'm just not with it. I will be walking to San Juan de Ortega today and I just realized that I live in San Juan Capistrano and the main road into town is Ortega Highway. That's odd.

As I pack I realize that there are two items missing. A pair of socks I left on a window sill after washing them and a pair of sunglasses. I admit to this for those of you keeping score. Most of my friends are probably impressed that I made it through two weeks without losing anything. Just a reminder, for those of you who took the under it's time to collect your bets.

I meet Michele and Rainer at the combination bar, lobby and breakfast room. I could just have a carb overdose but instead I choose a small sandwich to go along with my cafe-con leche. I like the con- leche but this beard is becoming a problem. My con-leche is sticking to my mustache and its bugging me. I will try to trim it when I get to San Juan.

I'm sure you are probably sick of the weather report but here it is. When I looked out the window this morning it was raining and dark. sound familiar ? I will dress accordingly but I am not going to wear the rain pants. They are just to warm and very uncomfortable. I will just get wet. I may leave them behind and reduce weight. I'm not sure.

As we are having our breakfast Rainer tells me that he will only be going as far as Villa Franca De Oca which is about 6 miles from Belorado. Rainer wants to check out a highly rated Hotel there and in addition he cannot find a place to stay in San Juan. 

Michele also is without a room and there is little chance of that changeing. There are only eight rooms in San Juan de Ortega and according to my guide book the population is twenty. This San Juan is much smaller than the one I know. i wonder how big its Church will be? 

To walk 15 miles and not have a place to stay is not a good idea. Michele decides to join Rainer at the new Hotel in Villa Franca.

It is 10:15 and I have a tough day ahead so I need to leave. Rainer says he will wait a while longer to allow for the rain to pass. I won't see him at the end of today but we will have dinner on Wednesday night in Burgos.  Michele is thinking about going on and taking his chances. In order to really have that as an option he knows he will need to leave with me now.

It's chilly but a great temperature for walking. We get started and are soon facing some nasty mud. All this rain has now turned parts of The Camino into a clay based, deep, thick mud which Is difficult to get through. Today will be a day when your poles will give you a return on your investment.  I hope my Limo's are up to the challenge. The Limo's can at least look forward to a good cleaning when we arrive in San Juan. 

You may be asking yourself, what does he use to clean the Limo's each day? 

I read a book or a blog about preparing for The Camino and it had a great tip which I paid attention to. The author suggested bringing a small micro-fiber towel. Only a bit larger than a foot square but capable of handling any dirt and so easily washed out and very fast drying.  Let us not forget one other benefit of this simple towel, it weighs next to nothing. After that day in the snow with my Limo"o soaked and covered in mud this little towel got them ready for the next days challenge. The little towel is now on my critical list.

The rain is light and on and off, mostly off. I have removed my rain jacket, its getting warmer. I think that I may change when I climb to the higher elevation which lies ahead. Once again our time is good. The conversation is good but occasional. As we approach a long stretch of mud which covers The Camino completely it becomes a kind of dance. You are looking ahead and down trying to pick out the best route through in order to avoid a deep pocket which would suck the shoe right off of your foot. Having wet feet for another ten miles is not something I want to experience again. I go slowly while up ahead Michele is just plowing his way through. 

It does not take long for us to have a gap between us of several hundred feet. We walk at our own pace and that's the way it must be. It's unspoken. We will catch up at some point ahead of us and if we don't that is fine. 

Keep your own pace and listen to what your body is telling you. If I had a critical list for the walking The Camino this rule would be first on the list.

Once we are through the larger mud holes the trail returns to normal. Michele is still ahead but I am closing the gap. He is walking with someone and their pace is slower. I catch them. Michele introduces me to this woman I have not seen before on The Camino. Even Michele has not met her before. They are carrying on a conversation in French. Yes, French. 

Michele is interpreteing and he tells me that she started her Camino in Leon. That's odd, Leon is ahead of us several days away. He explains. The woman who I would guess is older than I am has started her journey from Lyon France ! She will walk 52 days to Santiago a distance of more that 750 miles. Incredable.

Her pace is slower so we wish her Buen Camino and head off.

There is a small village a short distance from where we are and decide that it will be a good place to stop for coffee. I estimate that we have gone only about 3 miles. The mud is slowing the pace. We enter the village and just arriving at the cafe ahead of us are Fernando and Nelly. Greetings, handshakes and hugs all around. 

Like all of the other tiny little cafes it has the usual selection of topas and snacks. We all order coffee in the way we prefer and take a seat. Fernando and Michele are debating who has the best coffee. Italy or Brazil? Fernando tells me that in Brazil some people put Coke in their coffee! There are some things  I am willing to try. Putting Coke in my coffee is not going to make that list. 

As we get ready to go Nelly wants to check my list of reservations which Sharel has worked so hard on putting together. I know Shrael would not mind, she would love Nelly.

I am looking for the correct email and I can't help myself as I scroll my inbox. I stop to show Nelly a picture of my Grandsaon's. She loves the picture and makes several comments in Portuguese which she then tells me in English, "they have your eyes". Yes they do I just hope they are not looking as tired as mine.  

The next thing you know we are looking at pictures of their two beautiful daughters ages 20 and 22 and their two tiny dogs which are completely dressed in their fancy little outfits looking like they are about to walk in a parade. Miss Vivian makes an appearance and then we must leave.

The break went long and I still have about another eleven miles to go. Michele and I are quickly well ahead of our Brazilian friends. More mud ahead and we are once again separated by pace. The weather remains good with a great temperature for walking or for riding a bike. There are many who complete their Camino journey on bikes. I don't envey them.

Most of the people on bikeshave bells on their bikes to ring and warn you that they are rapidly approaching from the rear. On occasion they will not warn you and suddenly they fly past you usually in a group . They can really startle you but worse , with no warning you could take a step right in their path as you try to avoid an I obstacle on the trail or inadvertently get a pole out in front of them as they pass which could result in something very serious. 

There are times when they just fly by me as I am walking down a steep hill where I might envey them but up hill in the mud, I will take my Limo's anytime.

As I approach the village of Villa Franca I can see Michele ahead talking with someone on the trail. I catch up to them and It is a older German woman we have met before, They are discussing accommodations or the lack there of. I am now about 9 miles from my destination and I say goodby. I will walk the last 9 miles alone. I will meet Rainer and  Michele in Burgos for dinner.  We are all staying at the same Hotel.

Once I am past Villa Franca the walk gets significantly more difficult. I am now facing the 1200 foot climb and there is mud, lots of mud. There is no way to take this hill on directly. No, this hill will require several stops and a fuel break . It's warm and I will need to keep a pace which reduces my risk of over heating. As it turns out today will be the first time I will reach my destination for the day and enter the village out of water.

I take a couple of pictures, one looking back down the hill covering what is past and one in front which I will call reaching the top. Good idea except this is not othe top. There is a short flat section above but shortly after another hill, the last piece of the elevation .

I walk for at least seven miles without seeing another pilgrim in either direction. As I stop for a little water I can see ahead a real problem. So far I have been able to dance my way around, over and through the mud but what I am now looking at is mud that is much thicker and there is plenty of deep water. There are no options you just do it. 

This patch of the trail which is a completely muddy mess continues on for about a half mile. It is really slow trying to pick the best of the sections to try to get past. Finally I am out of it. My feet sre fine and they are dry. My poles have once again proven their value.

Suddenly I can see the village of San Juan de Ortega. It will not be difficult to find the eight room Hotel in this village. There are only two sizable buildings. The Church and the Hotel. I go directly to the Hotel and find a sign instructing me to go to the Marabell bar to register. I can see it, its only about a hundred yards away. The process is quick . There is however no food available until 7:00. I order a diet Coke and a small bag of chips. That's all they have.

I return to the a hotel and begin working on the gear and the mud. By the time I have it done and shower I am ready to return to the bar to check out the menu. While there I ask about wifi. The guy at the bar just says no and points to a tiny building just outside the door. It looks like a storage shed. Inside there are two coin operated desk top computers to access the Internet. I throw a bunch of coins in and it tells me that I have purchased 26 minutes of time. 

I begin. 21 minutes into the process I am not any closer to sending an email as I am to a great restaurant. All of the instructions are in Spanish. I keep seeing Google and I just keep guessing and suddenly it's in English and I am in. I send a short email to Robin telling her that I have made it to San Juan and that there is no wifi so no way to download both blogs for stages 11 and 12. That will be the cause of my posting delay. 

The dinner will be a Pilgrims dinner in a very crowded little room with food I don't want to eat. I buy another bag of chips and a glass of red wine and head back to my room to enjoy my gourmet meal and get some rest. I will eat tomorrow.

Stage 13 tomorrow 15.4 miles to Burgos. Good night.

Good night.

I'm not a good tourist ..... The Church with the two chickens ....

IIt's 6:30 in the morning , it's Monday May 27th. I just wrote that just to try and keep track of the days. It's been two weeks since I flew to Madrid. Today will be stage 11 a walk to Belorado of 14.2 miles. 

I know nothing about Belorado and I doubt I will see much of it when I get there. I just looked out the window, it's raining and its a steady rain. Aside from the rain, the desire to get out of all the wet gear and chill out will have no impact on my desire to be a tourist. It's just not me. 

I am sure that Robin, my brother Rick and sister-in-law Jill can attest to that. We have traveled to many great cities in some of the most beautiful parts of the world and I have seen little. I just don't like getting on a bus and having some guy who does not know how to use a microphone with the volume out of control starting every sentence with  "Lady's and Gentlemen, Lady's and Gentlemen" over and over again. That actually did happen and I nearly lost my mind. I can see the three of them now as they remember the number of times I would just say no thank you to joing them on some excursion to who knows where to see who knows what.  They are also smiling right now saying a collective "thank God !" I would be a real PITA and just make them all crazy if I came along. Just not my thing. It has it's draw backs. 

 Case in point. After  last nights dinner with Rainer and Michele we step out the front door to check on the weather. It's raining and the forecast is for rain all day. This is a beautiful little town and Rainer points to the a church next to our  hotel and asks if I have gone in? No I have not. When we first arrived today I was focused on getting into the Hotel lobby before it started raining, so when I passed the Church I really didn't notice it. It's beautiful. My lack of tourist skills are sharp.

Rainer asks if I know the story about this Church and the two chickens? Of course not, I live less than mile from The Mission of San Juan Capistrano, one of the oldest Missions in Southern California and famous because it is where the swallows return each year to the Mission after flying thousands of miles from South America. I no practically nothing about this Church I can walk to from home , how would I know anything about a Church half way around the world in a place called Santo Domingo, population 5600? 

Here's the story. I will do my best to get it right. 

Legend has it that hundreds of years ago that a couple walking The Camino with their son stop at an inn on their way to Santiago. While there they visit the inn and the owners young daughter is attracted to the young man but he is not attracted to her. The parents return to The Camino, the son will soon follow.

The young girl angry that the young man has shown no interest in her falsely accuses him of stealing silver from the Inn. He is arrested, convicted and hanged. 

The parents become concerned that he has not been seen so they return to Santo Domingo to search for him. They find him still hanging from the gallows but still alive thanks to the intervention of Santo Domingo. They rush to the sheriff's home where he is about to have his dinner. They tell the sheriff to release their son but the sheriff responds by telling the parents that it is not possible because their son is as dead as the chicken he is about to eat, whereupon the chicken stands up in his plate an crows loudly. The sheriff understands this to be a miracle and rushes to the gallows to cut down the young man and he is given a full pardon.

The family then continues its journey on The Camino to Santiago. 

There were so many miracles, accredited to Santo Domingo that the town takes his name. To this day in the Cathedral of Santa Inglesia there are at all times two chickens in a coop above the alter. Two new chickens occupy the coop everyday, including today. 

The Church of the two Chickens. I will wait as long as it takes to enter the Church before I leave to see  the two chickens, I don't care how long I have to wait. I am going to visit the Santa Inglesia Cathedral. 

At 9:25 this morning I enter the Cathedral, it is spectacular . A building you would have to see to believe. That it can exist in a town of only 2600 is truly amazing. I go to the alter and there they are, the two chickens . I took a picture but flash is not allowed but I think you can see the two chickens. Robin will post the picture among others for stage 11.

I am going to be a tourist today . I am seeing a lot a long the way but much is being missed. I will try to be better at being a tourist but still no buses! 

Get your favorite glass of whatever that happens to be, this is not believable.

I have breakfast with Rainer it is about 9:00 am. It is raining and there appears to be little chance that it will stop anytime soon. I am prepared. I have on extra layers because it is chilly and I also have on my rain pants. They are very uncomfortable. Warm and difficult to walk in, which is not a good combination for a 15 mile walk in the rain.

 I visit the Church of the Miracle of The Chickens. I see the two chickens and then go back to the Hotel. By the way there are about 18 chickens selected for this honor and the two selected are changed each day. 

 Michele has joined Rainer and I late for breakfast and decides that he too will visit the Catherdail to see the chickens. When he returns it is already 10:15 and it is still raining. We cannot find Rainer. Michele calls Rainer's room but there is no answer. Perhaps he has gone ahead, we don't know . We make a decision and we leave for the Camino thinking that Rainer is ahead of us, regardless we leave. It's 10:30 in Santo Domingo. 

The walk today is fairly easy. I can't believe that I just said that. Today is my eleventh consecutive day and I just said "fairly easy". I need to be careful not to get ahead of myself. I still have a long way to go, A very long way to go.

As we leave the town it is raining lightly but I am at the point where rain just does not get my attention like it would if I were home. It's laughable when I think of how my friends and I would react if we had a light shower surprise us while playing golf. Immediately there is a flurry of activity while everyone puts on their rain gear, grabs the giant umbrella and begins protecting the towels needed to wipe down the seats of our covered golf carts! Something tells me that I will see rain differently when I play again.

Michele and I are only a bit more than a mile or so from our start and I am sweating like someone about to testify at a murder trial. The sky in the distance is blue and it appears we are headed in its direction. We stop to take off a layer. 

I shed both a vest and my rain jacket. Why not, the rain jacket is as wet inside as it is on the outside. Ten minutes after taking off the rain jacket it starts raining again. I'm not going through another change, I will just get wet. 

We are really moving along, the terrain is flat and the light rain has softened the trail making the walk more comfortable on my feet. My Limo's are performing well. I check my watch and I estimate that at the pace we have been moving that we have already covered a distance of about four miles. We will stop at the next village for coffee and a bite to eat. 

As we enter the village its a common theme. Small village, giant church. If you could see these buildings it would make you shake your head at not just the size but the architecture. I know someone who would take far more time to look more closely at what I am just dashing by. Gene will enjoy the pictures. 

As we approach the small bar-cafe Michele makes a small detour for the Farmacia. He wants to buy some ibuprofen. I mention that I will need to by some eye drops . He asks what I mean and in order to explain I just pull back an eyelid and say "too much wine". He laughs and now understands. It's not the reason I need the drops its just that the weather and the wind keep making my eyes water and yet they are dry. I can't explain it. 

We are in the Farmacia and Michele is speaking with the woman at the counter. She is explaining what dosage he should take . I only know this because I hear her say "dos", two. My Spanish is very poor but I can count to ten. 

It's my turn and Michele is explaining what I need. She turns to me and I just take a piece of paper and write down Vispring. I bought these before in Pamplona. It works. We are out the door and on our way to have our coffee.

I have my coffee con-leche and Michele has his straight. There are a selection of small freshly made bocadillo's ( sandwiches ) and we decide to share one. The bartender cuts it in half. The meat is a very tender ham with cheese and tomatoes. As always the bread is just so much better than anything I could get at home. 

As we are having our sandwich I can't help but think of my brother-in-law, David who passed away far to soon. He would just love the food here. I miss David. He was fun to be around and I really enjoyed eating with him. He appreciated good food and he knew how to eat good food. David could sit with a small plate of cheese, olives, olive oil, Italian bread, a few slices of pastrami , a small glass of wine and take an hour to eat it. When I ate with him I would slow down and enjoy the food. I miss him as do so many others.

I continue to be amazed at how little I am eating in spite of the energy I am burning on The Camino. Smaller portions and very few snacks in between and yet I am not hungry. The one exception is dinner. By the time I arrive at the destination of the day I am ready to eat. Today will be no exception. 

As we leave the village there is a small dog just ahead and Michele stops to remove something from his backpack to offer the animal. He kneels and speaks to the dog in Spanish. The dog is very jumpy and Michele explains that all of the dogs here are afraid perhaps because of their lack of care. He tosses the snack to the dog. He takes it and with that two other dogs are jogging toward us. Michele offers  both a treat and the big one, who appears to be blind in one eye takes the treat directly from his hand. As we walk away I ask him what it was he was giving them. They are long, thin, dark and look like sticks. They are dog treats he has brought from home. He tells me that he has a dog at home, Jessy , and that he misses him and asks if I have a dog. "No but we do have Vivian El Gato de Interior". The house cat. He remembers , I showed him the picture Robin sent me and laughs as he repeats her name " Vivian , Vivian". 

As always we leave the village and pass by two pilgrims I have not seen before and without hesitation they call out his name and he responds in German and they both laugh and wish us Buen Camino. The Mayor is gathering votes. He could win in a landslide. 

As we make our way toward Belorado it is sunny and its getting very warm. I could be wearing shorts today. Yes even the wimp from California can handle this temperature. It's really a nice day. We joke about it but I have told Michele that he is lucky to walk with me because i am blessed and he will reap the benefit of my good fortunes and have great weather. He repeats "Jim is blessed" as he gestures toward the blue sky. It just keeps getting better.

We have not seen many of the usual group of Pilgrims today, perhaps it's because of our late start. We continue on. There has been only one small but long hill. The heat from my rain pants is increasing but I am not going to stop and take them off, it's just to big a hassle and if I do take them off where will I put them? They are covered in mud and will make a mess of anything in the backpack. 

We are moving at a pace that is much faster than in days past but we are not pushing it. It just happens. We see a sign for Belorado telling us that we are about six miles away as we leave the Rioja region. More of the signs I see make reference to Santiago still hundreds of miles away but it's a solid indication that I am getting closer with each step. Twenty three more stages after today. Only twenty three.

There is one point in today's walk where we both stop and think that we have missed a turn. We have walked at least two miles from where a sign had indicated that our Hotel was a short 3km away. This is troublesome. There are no Pilgrims in sight in front of us or behind. The trail in front is long and we cannot see anything that looks like a village. For a moment we both realize that we may have to turn back and repeat a couple of miles. Not good.

We are standing there and I spot a stone in the grass and sure enough it is marked with The Camino shell. We have  not made a mistake so we press on. 

Michele is starting to feel some discomfort in his shoes. He tells me that he decided to turn over his insoles that morning and that is now proving to be a mistake. I myself have a two small blisters, one on a toe on my right foot and one on the heel of my left. No point in dwelling on it. They will need to be dealt with when we arrive.

.

As we enter the a village it's no different than most. Big Church, small village but this church is different. On the top of the Church there are very large bird nests. Very large, enormous . Michele stops and asks me the name of a very big bird and I say eagle or hawk. He thinks and then says no, the bird who brings the baby. A stork. They are everywhere . 

We turn the corner and there are three people sitting on the ground and they all shout out "Michele". I am introduced to everyone as "Jim from California". Edward is sketching the a church and is very talented. We agree to meet later in the plaza. 

We reach our Hotel and agree to meet between 6:30 and 7:00 for dinner. Rainer has not yet arrived. I guess he did not start ahead of us. 

Once the gear is cleaned and taken care of it leaves some time to rest. I make a note that I am nearly out of the Tide packets Robin gave me so I will need to find a market soon.

I head downstairs and Rainer and Michele are already there. Raner knows a good restaurant but first we will take a look at two others. We settle on the first choice and take a table for four. There is no one else in the place. There is a television mounted on the wall near us and Michele asks if it can be turned off or at least reduce the volume. The woman working the counter looks less than happy but manages a smile. Little do we know that in just ten minutes the television volume will not matter.

I order a salad and a steak. The steaks in Spain are razor thin not at all like the 24 or 26 once choices we have at home. Before we finish the salad about 15 very loud old guys show up and sit right next to us for their card game. We can't hear anything. Asking for the television volume to be turned down in this place is silly.

Once we pay the bill we head for the plaza.  We meet up with Edward, his brother Kevin, the woman from Australia and a college student from Texas. The conversations starts out like most conversations amoung pilgrims meeting for the first time. Everyone has met before but not Rainer and me. 

Amoung the typical questions are where are you from, where did you start The Camino? Are you going all the way to Santiago? And more.

Edward and Michele ask Kevin to play something on his guitar. I have never seen a guitar as small as this guitar. I have no idea what to expect. He begins to play and I realize that I am watching a very talented professional musician. He is so good that the locals start to gather. Kevin had once lived in Spain for ten years. His Spanish is perfect. Not good, not great, perfect. As he begins to sing in Spanish the crowd begins to grow. It's a show as Kevin serenades a couple of the old women. They are singing along. He is very, very talented. His is a professional and it shows. Soon there is a local who is speaking to Kevin and that results in Kevin handing Alberto ( I know his name because the  locals are encouraging him to play ) which he does and he is good but the unique guitar is not his cup of tea. 

I video the performance. I wish I could share it with you.

Kevin is back playing when Alberto returns with his Spanish guitar and the two play a duet that I will not soon forget. It's great entertainment. I have met a number of really nice people on this journey but none nicer than Kevin and his brother Edward. 

They are returning to the States tomorrow after spending 12 days together. One brother on the east 

coast and one on the west coast. I know what that's like. 

I need to get to bed, tomorrow is a walk of 15 miles to San Juan de Ortega and it includes an elevation increase of 1200 feet. As much as I would like stay I am not willing to pay the price for it tomorrow. 

Back to the Hotel . Good night.

Munich 2, Dortmund 1 ....... Big Billy is not happy

I head back to my Hostal Hispano well before my German friends will get to bed. Big Billy is to put it mildly very engaged in the game. Sitting at the very next table is a Munich fan who is nearly the same size as Big Billy. I had a feeling before I left at half time that these two very big guys both so completely committed to their teams may end up facing off.

I am not proud to tell you this but I have been in a couple of bars before and I know what can happen when you get this mixture of emotions and beer thrown together. It's not good. More about the end of the Big Game later. 

I am back to the Hostal by 9:30. I am the oldest in the group by a stretch and I know how I need to feel at 7:00 in the morning if I am about to throw on a twenty two pound backpack and go for a 15 mile walk. Watching Dortmund and Munich does not fit into a solid plan to make stage 10 painless. 

I get a decent nights sleep and leave the Hostal at 8:45. I need to return the key and my remote to the bar across the street because the actual front desk in the Hostal building is not occupied until 4:00pm. 

I don't care where I return the Hostal's property I just want to have a cup of coffee and perhaps something to eat.

The woman tending the bar is very nice and greets me in nearly perfect English. I give her the key and the remote and she asks me if I would like a cup of coffee? Yes, con leche please. As she prepares the coffee she asks "would like something to eat?" I take a shot and ask if it would be possible to have eggs? She turns toward a little room in the back which I cannot see into and begins speaking to someone in Spanish. 

A voice from the little room fires back and the young woman says to me "Mama wants to know if you want scrambled eggs or an omelette with cheese and ham?". I choose the omelette. Good decision. I am about half way through the omelet when Mama steps out from the back. She takes one look at me and turns to her daughter and in Spanish asks her a question. The daughter then tells me that Mama wants to know if you are tired? All I say is "no". More conversation and finally the daughter tell's me that Mama says my eyes are tired and that I need more sleep. No argument here. It's just not that simple.

I pay the bill, 53 Euros ( about $65 ) for room, breakfast with tax and tip included. Try that in Capistrano. 

I thank the daughter and put on my backpack and I am on my way to Santo Domingo De Calzada , fifteen miles away. Today is stage ten so its my tenth consecutive day of walking. I am averaging just about 15 miles a day and I am grateful that I don't have any serious aches and pains. 

I will soon find out just how much better I am doing than some of the other Pilgrims I have met along the way.

I am starting to understand that when I first start each day I am a bit sore and yes a bit tired but soon thereafter things get better. Once I have walked about a mile and a half my muscles warm up and I get more and more comfortable. It's all about the pace and of course it also depends on the weather and the condition of the trail. Today is just perfect. Not a cloud in the sky and a little chill in the air but without any significant wind . This is about as good as it gets for walking 15 miles.

I am walking alone. My German friends have probably stayed out well past my bedtime and may be getting a later start. All three of them are staying at a Hotel not far from my Hostal. Before I left the game we confirmed that we are all staying at the same Hotel and agree that will meet for dinner in Santo Domingo. 

After about three miles It gets a bit warmer and I have already worked up a pretty good sweat so I stop for a wardrobe adjustment and a little water. I am in no rush. The walk thus far has had only one hill challenge. I have my secret weapon and the hill is not a match. I take it without stopping. I am not trying to prove anything and I am in no hurry. It just happens. 

The scenery is once again spectacular. The mountains I am marching toward are covered in snow and I am surrounded by vineyards in every direction. I am still in the Rioja region. That will soon end.

I take a couple of pictures and as I do I can hear a group of voices getting closer. It's a group of seven locals out to walk to the next small village about a half mile away. I guess that's what they are doing because the have no poles and no backpacks. I don't like having people directly behind me so I decide to take a short break.

I wait to let them get well enough ahead and as I begin to get back on the trail Michele walks up beside me. He is all smiles and asks if I want to walk along with him.  Yes, absolutely and we move on. Our pace quickly matches the same pace we used when we first met leaving Los Arcos. The conversation quickly turns to how fantastic the weather is today.

Before I left Najera I did not think to ask anyone at the Hostal if they knew what the result was of the Big Game last night so my first question to Michele is "who won?" He stops and tells me the story about how in the final minute of the game Munich scored the winning goal. Munich 2, Dortmund 1. He says something about it was not a good ending and goes on to tell me just how upset Big Billy was and how the subsequent face off with the other big guy nearly caused a riot. No punches thrown but it got close and the people in the bar made sure they were separated. Big Billy is so upset that he tells Michele and Rainert that he does not want to talk to anyone and leaves. 

In addition to Big Billy's disappointment with the game he is also still struggling with blisters and has decided to take the bus to a Burgos which is 4 stages away.  That will cut off about 60 miles from the total. Big Billy is the first victim I hear about today but he won't be the only one. 

Michele and I are making good time. I am twice his age so I think I am doing fairly well. I feel good and I am telling myself that I am walking for the tenth consecutive day and I don't have any issues which will slow me down. I don't want to jinx myself but I am beginning to believe I can complete The Camino without stopping. It's now my goal.

There is one very long hill that stretches for about a mile. It's a gradual climb and its long and over some poor terrain. We take it slow. Shortly after reaching the top we see a small village ahead and we agree that we will stop for coffee and a small bite of something. The name of the village is Azofra. We stop and take a table outside at the Bar Sevilla Azorfa. 

We are drinking our coffee and diet cokes when a young and very small woman spots Michele and shouts out his name. It's amazing, he knows everybody. It turns out that this young woman was part of a large dinner group with Michele in St Jean at the start of The Camino. He has not seen her since. Her name is Mee-Sue ( that's how she pronounced it) she is from South Korea and she has hurt her knee. Michele takes out of his backpack the bandage he used back on the way to Estella. 

He tells her to sit and he try's to get the bandage around her knee but she is so small that it just keeps wrapping around making the Velcro useless. He makes a comment about how small her legs are and she responds that he has the legs of an elephant, It's pretty funny and Mee-Sue is pleased with her ability to make a funny comment. 

Michele decides that he can turn the bandage a certain way and tie it which he try's and it works. Mee-Sue is better and gets back on the trail ahead of us. We will see her again. 

As we get started again we can see off in the distance some very dark clouds and we are walking directly toward them. We are about 5miles from our destination .  Nothing is said but I know what I'm thinking. 

As we get closer we turn through a small village which has all of these very modern, very ugly and completely abandoned group of apartment buildings probably a result of the global downturn back in 2008. They don't look like they will be occupied any time soon. 

Just as we come around the corner someone yells out Michele's name. It's the Brazilian couple I have seen every day at many of the Hotels and everyday on The Camino. They immediately break into Portuguese and we decide to join them for a short break. Michele introduces me to them. Fernando and Nelly. They are from San Paolo and they are the nicest and happiest people on The Camino. They are discussing Hotels which need to be booked and Nelly ( who speaks English ) is looking for Hotels in all of the cities ahead of us for the next ten days. I take out my iPad mini and show Nelly the schedule which Sharel has put together for me and she is ecstatic. She asks if I can email it to her when we reach Santo Domingo and of course I say "yes". Sharel, Nelly and Ferdinand both send their thanks!

 We finish our break and we need to get moving the storm is getting closer. We are only two miles away from completing the days walk. Our pace is much faster than our friends from Brazil and they are  soon well behind us. In the end we all make it to the a hotel just before it starts to rain. Well almost all of us. We have passed Mee-Sue down a very long hill which takes you into the city. She is struggling , the effects of the bandage have worn off. She will soon be wet as well as in some pain. the Camino has another victim.

Michele and I have not seen Rainert today and when Michele left his Hotel this morning Rainert was still in his room. We both think that Rainert is probably out on the trail getting wet. We are wrong. Rainert walks up to us and says that he's been waiting for us. How is that possible? Simple, he took the bus! To much wine watching the game and then he stayed out later than planned. When he woke this morning he was just not up to it so he took the bus.

That's ok . Rainert has completed two Camino's, he is allowed the use of a donkey or the bus. Time to head for dinner. Tomorrow on to Belorado, 14.2 miles away. The forecast is not good. Lets keep our fingers crossed.

The Vineyards of Rioja

I get to sleep early and I wake up early but I am not tired. Today I will walk to Najera through the Vineyards of the region, Rioja.

Today's blog will most likely be shorter than the others which is because the trip is only 10 miles. When I reach Najera I will be about 124 miles into this journey. I was thinking about this on the way today. With the completion of my walk tomorrow I will have walked the equivalent of a walk to south San Diego and back. I can't help it, it's what you do when your walking for four hours.

I pack and as always I take a look outside. The sun is out and it looks like it will be a good day. I head down to the lobby and give the desk clerk my key. He smiles and just says "television".  I forgot to bring the remote back to the front desk.

For those of you keeping score this error with the remote does not count in my "I lost this something scoresheet". Having just used the word "lose" ( as in  lose my phone ) correctly for the first time since I started this blog instead of "loose" ( as in my pants are loose ) demonstrates the comment I made yesterday about my errors in writing the blog. While I am at it, from now on my "poles" will describe my my walking tools and they will no longer be referred to as my "polls", as in an election. Corrections and editorial work is on going but I can still feel my grade declining. 

I return the remote and go directly to the coffee and bread feast in the small dining area. The couple from Brazil are there and they immediately greet me with Buenos Dias ! I have met them once at dinner in Viana. They came to our table to say hello to "The Mayor". They are the nicest people. I have also passed them on the trail and they always say Buen Camino regardless of the number of times you see them. They smile at all times. 

I order my coffee and orange juice. The desk clerk also takes care of the dining room. I watch as he prepares the freshly squeezed orange juice. He brings it in a pitcher . It's delicious. I wonder what The a Four Seasons would charge for a pitcher of freshly squeezed OJ ? Mine is included with my room. The room charge is 48 Euro or about $65.

My coffee arrives at about the same time as Rainer. We start with the all important tropic, the weather. Rainier has already completed the research and tells me that it will be cold today probably a high of 10 C. Shortly after, both Michele and Big Billy arrive. I am surprised to see Big Billy because the last time I saw him in Viana he was thinking about staying an extra night because of the blisters on his feet. He tells me that he has decided to deal with the blisters and stay on the same schedule. 

Rainer then mentions the treatment that is best including not putting anything on the blisters and especially don't wash your socks. That comment about the socks gets my attention because of my daily laundry habits including the washing of my socks. I ask why? Rainer points out that the more often the socks are washed the more quickly they will lose their shape. In addition the thickness will also be reduced from multiple washing which results in a different fit in your shoes. If the fit you have is working don't change it, simply stop washing them as often. Rainer is on his third Camino, my socks will no longer be a part of my daily Tide event.

Soon it's time to go and we all head out. I fall behind quickly because when we leave I am cold. The wind is up and it gets my attention quickly. I stop to add a layer and to get my REI gloves out as well. Within less than a minute or two I am passed by a guy with shorts and a tee shirt on. There must be somebody arranging this daily event designed to make me look like a wimp. It's working but I don't care, I'm cold. 

Within a half an hour I catch up with the Michele, Big Billy and Rainer. We share a couple of words and I move past them. My pace is well ahead of theirs. It may be related to Big Billy's blisters. There is no  violation by me moving on. Everyone just goes at their own pace. It's also better because if I join up they will be nice enough to switch to English for my benefit. Without me they can all stay in their native tongue, German. 

I catch up with and pass the Brazilian couple and as always they are smiling and greet me with the customary Buen Camino. They left the Hotel well ahead of me so I am making good time. I'm not pushing it but the trail is flat and the temperature is perfect for walking. I am on a pace that is working for me. 

There is only one hill of any size and its a three stager. Not that steep but lots of rocks and boulders and damage from the recent rains. I just take it slow .

As I reach the top I turn into another vineyard. The entire 4.5 miles will be right through the vineyards. I reach a point on the trail where there is a small group of buildings and the trail splits very dramatically into a choice of very left or very right. I stop and search for a Camino marker when a small tractor working in the field close by beeps its horn. I look over and the driver has his hand out the window pointing to the right telling me which way to go. I avoid a detour and wave at him with my poles and he beeps back again and waves goodby. These people are nice.

I have gone so quickly that I miss the tiny village I was going to meet Michele, Rainer and Big Billy in for coffee. I just go right past it. The next thing I know is that I am in a much larger town. As I cross a river on a bridge older than anyone I know I am not sure where I am. Is this the small village which Rainer  described as the place where we would meet for coffee? I don't think so. As I reach the end of the bridge I spot a guy I have seen on The Camino a number of times before. We have always given each other the standard Camino greeting but I have never spoken with him . He is no doubt an American. I greet him again and after I move past him I stop and turn back and ask him if he knows how far it is to Najera? He is standing there looking at the same guide book I have in my backpack when he responds. "This is Najera". I am stunned. I am here in less than four and a half hours and I stopped for a couple of breaks. I tell him that I was thinking there were about two miles to go and I ask him where he is from. His name is Jerry and he is from Massachusetts and I immediately let him know that I grew up in Connecticut and that I have been a Redsox fan for 50 years. We are now bonded. 

We chat for a short time but long enough to find out that his brother lives in Bakersfield California and that he has very bad blisters because he did not train and has the wrong shoes. We wish each other well and he moves on. 

I am in Najera, I am we'll ahead of schedule. Now all I need to do is find the Hostal Hispano and I will get settled and take a break. The weather is so good that I am looking forward to dumping all of my stuff and having a coffee by the river. 

Najera is small and quaint to say the least. I find the Hostal in less than ten minutes. The difference between a Hostal and a Hotel is primarily the ownership structure and the amenities offered. The Hostal's front door is locked and there is a sign telling anyone with a reservation who arrives before 4:00 pm to go to the bar around the corner to check in. That's another difference between a Hostal and a Hotel.

 I follow the instructions and when I walk into the bar I am greeted by a baby who cannot be a year old in one of those round things that let's them move around like they are walking when they are not. I've seen these before. As I walk in everyone stops what they are doing and stares at the old guy with the white beard, backpack, poles and shouts some kind of collective greeting. I feel like I just returned for the family reunion! 

I am offered food, wine, beer and of course everyone speaks perfect English.  Sharel has put me into this great little place in a perfect location with these really nice people and it costs about $60. I like Spain.

 I take care of my gear, take a shower and decide that I will chill out and catch up on some reading. Ten minutes into that idea I am sound asleep. I wake up at 5:15. I will take a walk and try to find my German comrades. There are only three Hotels in Najera and they all sit on the riverbank. I step outside and it is beautiful, about 65 degrees with the sun shining. I think I will go find a seat at an outdoor cafe on the river and just take it all in. I see this as a bonus from The Camino for past which was very hard.

 I am looking for a spot to sit and sure enough Rainer is at a table by himself having a glass of wine. The next two hours with Rainer are very interesting .

Rainer is an aeronautical engineer employed by a very large international airline. He has been with them for almost 40 years and will retire in two years. As noted before this is his third Camino. I ask him why he did the first and he tells me that he still does not know. Perhaps it was the challenge? He says yes, maybe. Rainer is a very intelligent man. When we had coffee this morning he had a long conversation with the desk clerk In perfect Spanish so that puts him in the three language group. German, Spanish and English. 

 I ask him about the second Camino and he says he still does not have an answer. I don't ask him about the third Camino which we are now on. It just does not seem right to pursue the topic. 

He goes on to tell me about a small part of The Camino's history including a great story about a very wealthy French women and The Camino. I will try to get it straight. 

There was a French woman who was poor before she walked The Camino. Some time after her Camino  experience her fortunes changed for the better and she became a very wealthy woman. As she grew older she called in all of her children who were all estranged from each other to tell them how each of them could get their share or get nothing, The rule was that in order to inherit their share of her fortune they would all have to walk The Camino together. Each one who completed The Camino as a part of the group would receive their share. 

The story goes on about how walking together heals their personal wounds and they complete the Camino together fully reunited. 

Rainer is currently carrying four stones from friends who have asked him to place their stones at  a specific place. The stones from each person have their own meaning and purpose. I don't think there is any doubt that there is a spiritual purpose to the four stones. If you have seen the movie The Way you will recall the placing of the stones.

I am with Rainer one on one for the next two hours before we meet Michele for dinner. Big Billy is busy holding a table for more than three hours in order to secure a good spot from which to watch the European equivalent to our Super Bowl, the European Soccer Championship. This year for the first time there are two German Clubs in the final. One of them is Dortmund where both Michele and Big Billy live. This is a really big deal. Big Billy has brought with him his yellow Dortmund shirt to wear at the restaurant. By the way Big Billy's real name is Christopher but I like Big Billy better so for my blog he will remain known as Big Billy. My privilege.

Michele, Rainer and I go next door to have dinner while Billy holds down the table. The restaurant- bar has already told him that he would need to order food  for the table of empty chairs at least twice before the big game starts. Just in case you were not aware the other team is Munich.

How about this. There are 22,000 seats available in a lottery for the game. More than 500,000 are in the lottery and I am sitting with Big Billy who has one of the 22,000 seats. He proudly shows me his ticket on his iPhone. It's value on a system like eBay is more than 5,000 Euro or nearly $7000 dollars . I ask him what he did with the ticket and he tells me that he gave it to a friend in London. By the way the game is being played in London.

Michele, Rainer and I finish our three course dinner including tax, tip and wine, a cost of about $15 each and go next door to be with Bill Billy for the start of the game. I took a picture of Big Billy in his yellow Dortmund shirt which I sent to Robin. 

The game starts and the place is packed. Soccer is big here and the European Championship attracts even those who don't care just like the Superbowl. In the first ten minutes the action is slow and very defensive but suddenly Dortmund has a great opportunity to score but just misses. Big Billy jumps up when his team misses the great opportunity to score taking with him all of the beer and anything else on the table. No problem. When Big Billy stands up and starts to clean up the mess no one would be dumb enough to tell Billy "down in front". 

I leave at half time while 99% of the fans step outside to smoke and no one will know that I am gone. Tomorrow The Camino takes me Santo Domingo a trip of about 14 miles. I need the rest far more than I need to see the end of the game.

Good night.