On my way to Pamplona

I woke this morning at 7:45 ( I slept in ) and the first thing I did was check to see if all of my gear had dried out from yesterday's adventure. The good news is yes and the bad news is that all of the laundry I did in the bathroom sink also was dry. Robin gave me a bunch of Tide washing packets and told me how to use them and it worked perfectly. Why is that bad news? It's not, it's just a confession about my new laundry skills.

It's actually funny because I know that when this is read by a number of people there will be a collective gasp at this confession. I can only imagine how many people will be grinning from ear to ear with the thought of me doing laundry in a Hotel bathroom sink. I know that at least Maggie, Alyce, Charles, Gary and Debbie are  getting a good laugh from this. 

I say that because when we all worked together I was so spoiled that when I traveled I would take with me my own shower head and wrench because I insisted on water pressure. They all thought that was a riot. 

Ok. Part of this journey is to live outside of my comfort zone and clearly I am making progress. The Zubiri Four Seasons was a start and now it's the laundry . With that out of the way you can all now just imagine that at he end of each days's walk I begin the recovery process with this new skill.

Alright enough about the laundry.  After checking the condition of all my things I peek out the window to see what I will face today. Surly it can't be anything like yesterday. I am correct. It's chilly. I know that because unlike any other Four Seasons in the world the Zubiri Four Seasons has a sign out front which continuously updates the time and temperature as a public service . It's 7:46 and the signs says its 12. I know that's cold in "F" and  I believe that in "C" that's still not warm. It's raining lightly and it's not sunny. No big deal. After yesterday I am ready for Zubiri to have its first tornado.

I pack and dress with multiple layers because 12 "C" just has to be cold. It is a little. I find this out as I make my way to breakfast ( included ) because unlike all other Four Seasons the Zubiri Four Seasons requires you to exit the building to access the dining room, aka the bar to get your pre-paid meal. I enter and place my backpack between the cigarette machine and the jukebox . How many of you have ever been able to say that? This journey will continue to provide a countless number of "firsts" this being one of them.

Breakfast of course includes some eye opening real coffee not the stuff we in the US think is coffee. No this is not Starbucks, this is the real deal. In addition to the coffee I am given a basket of bread and a very sizable croissant . Apparently the Spanish like to carb up to start the day. I agree and eat most of it with real butter.  I thank my host and grab my backpack and step out into the rain. At home I would be running from the rain but after yesterday it's really nice. As I head toward Church I pass a family of five on donkeys going who knows where. This in Southern California would make the "breaking news " segment at nine. I take a picture which I will send as soon as I figure out how to do it.

As I reach the church I am disappointed to find that all of the doors are locked. It's Sunday this can't be right. I look and there is a sign which lists all of the Church's Mass's and there is only one each day. The Sunday Mass is at 11:00 am. All other Mass's are at 6:00 pm daily. That makes sense. With a population of 500 ( I said in yesterday's message that there were only 200, my guidebook says 500) there is no way to keep the Church open and have it maintained with all of the cost to do so. That's ok I will just find another on the way. Wrong. There are no others along the way . I am out in the middle of a forest where people still ride donkeys in the center of town. Then I will just wait until I arrive in Pamplona.

The travel is fairly easy. I don't want to get ahead of myself but this is just not like the first two days. Yes it's raining a little but it's just not a problem. I am beginning to adjust the way I see things like rain. It's no big deal and it's natural. I get it, we really don't need umbrellas.

The real challenge today is mud and lots of it. From time to time along the Camino today I will find myself with conditions which cannot be ignored without penalty.  Along the trail there are spots where the width of the trail is about two feet wide and it's like walking in chocolate pudding.

I make my way to Larrasoana a village with a population of 200. Yes 200 as stated in my guide book. Larrasoana wants to be Zubiri when it grows up. The trail takes you right through the village. I see a sign that says Market and it has an arrow pointing in a direction opposite of where the trail will start again. Why not. I will go and buy something to take with me for lunch, a snack and perhaps a bottle of  flavored water or a Gatorade . As I walk the 500 meters ( the sign said it was 500  meters ) it dawns on me that if all of the churches are closed on Sunday why am I now thinking that the one and only market In this sprawling metropolis is going to be open. 

I find it. There is a hand written note complete with arrow pointing to a button and it says "push". I can't believe that I am dumb enough to do it but I do. I push the button and instantly the lights inside go on and this guy rushes to open the door and greets me with "Buenos Dias".

I grab a freshly baked loaf of French bread, thinly sliced ham, a banana and two bottles of the Spanish version of Gatorade. It cost next to nothing. I pay him and before I leave he tells me (his english is near perfect) that I should avoid the next 3k on the trail because of the damage from the storm and just walk on the side of the road . He goes on to tell me that it is Sunday and therefore there will be little traffic. I take his advice.

All is going fine for about 10 minutes when the first car is coming toward me. It goes by me like an Indy car! I don't know how fast it's going but I don't think it was within any speed limit I have ever driven. For those of you who are not up on your miles vs."K's" let me just point out that I will now be walking head on into Indy Car racing for the next 1.8 miles. This is what happens when you try to cut corners on the advice of a guy who owns a market in a village with a population of 200 people. Bring back the mud!

The balance of the day is uneventful. I was surprised that the last 3-4 miles was spent walking through neighborhoods in the outskirts of the city. It was a good day. No stress, no physical issues. I posted a picture of my walking boots which I now call my Limo's. I think it's on the blog. I'm not very good at this. I think the picture is interesting because it will help you visualize what the front desk guy's face at my Hotel in Pamplona looked like when Mr. Mud walked across his freshly polished lobby floor. By the way even the Cathedral was closed when I walked past it as I entered the center of the city.

Tomorrow on to stage 4, a short walk of about ten miles but with a very steep climb up through the middle of a large collection of wind turbines to the town of Puente La Reina.

That's it for now and don't forget ......  don't stray from the chosen path.