Friday, May 31, 2013

Dinner and a Bull fight .... It's not much of a fight and it sure isn't fair.

II run out from my Hotel here in Burgos having completed stage 15, I need to get a few things , I am out of Tide. Can't believe I just wrote that but it's true. My focus on The Camino is very different from what I would normally be concerned with if I were back in Capistrano. 

I find the Supermercado a short distance from the Hotel. There is nothing "Super" about it. We are so spoiled. This "Super" market is not as large as the wine and deli sections of our "Super" markets at home. If the people who are in this market right now could just see what the difference is I doubt they would believe it.

I don't find any Tide packets but I do see a box of powered detergent that has on its cover a picture of clothing items being washed by hand? It's called Veep. I will buy it. The box is much to big but that's not a problem, I will just poor some of it into a zip lock bag and leave the rest behind.

Back to the Hotel and a quick shower. 

By the way now is as good a time as any to get this on the record. I have lost my second pair of sun glasses. For those of you keeping score I believe that's item number three. Update your records.

I meet Michele and Rainer in the lobby at 7:00. Rainer will lead the way to a restaurant he has been to before. I know it will be good because Rainer has taste. He takes us through a stunning part of the city past the Cathedral de Santa Marie built in the 13th century and then over the river past the most famous stature in the city. It's the statue of El Cid, born in 1040. His house is not far and The Camino passes close by. Can you say tourist?

We arrive at the restaurant, Don Jamon. As Rainer has already explained there will not be any pilgrims here, it's strictly locals. We will feast on a continuing selection of Tapas. The food is just as good as I knew it would be and the wine is even better. 

When we arrived in Burgos we entered a new wine region. We are no longer in Rioja, we are now in the Ribera wine region. Rainer orders a bottle of T-Danguix. I think it was 2009, not sure but I can tell you that it was very good. Hard to believe that it costs about $14 US! Keep in mind that's the restaurant price. 

Now for the hard part about dinner. We are in a favorite local restaurant and on one of its walls facing out table directly is a very large flat screen television, probably the sixty or seventy inch variety and for as long as we are there the Bull fights are on.

I understand that Bull fighting has a long history in Spain and that the people watch it with great passion. I am watching and also getting an education on what is taking place. The patrons at the bar and in the restaurant are cheering and I am told with the introduction of each bull there is great and very animated debate about the "quality" of the Bull. As each Bull is brought into the arena where some 20,000  people are watching live the details on each Bull is scrolling across the screen. The Bull's name, his owner and his age and weight are for all to see. The first Bull I see on the screen weighs 1200 pounds and as I learn quickly he had no chance of winning the "fight", none. 

What the patrons are debating is if the Bull is fast enough, angry enough and willing to make the Matadors have to work hard to kill him. There are as many as six Matadors surrounding the Bull when he is finally dead, but during the "fight" there is one primary Matador who everyone will be cheering for. He is a rock star.

I watch only one event in spite of the fact that while I am sitting there at least ten Bulls are tortchered and put to death. I am certain I will never watch a Bull "fight" again.  

We finish dinner and the bill is about $18 US each, wine, food tax and tip included. The Bull fighting front row seat was free, no charge.

We are on are way back to the Hotel and Rainer makes sure we return by a different route in order to see a little more of the city. The weather is perfect and walking is not a problem for any of us. I think you can understand why.

We stop at a small cafe, bar and Rainer orders three coffee drinks called Cararrio. I have no idea how to spell it but its a very small espresso with a touch of brandy. Hard to believe but it actually helps get you to sleep. I can't explain it, you know the coffee part. 

While we are there Michele spots something he wants to try. Olives with small pieces of sardines in olive oil. I try the olives, they are very good. I pass on the sardines, Rainer and Michele will not let them go to waste. 

We head back to the Hotel. It's 11:00 . Plenty of time for a good night's rest. We agree to meet for breakfast at or around 9:30. Tomorrow will be stage 15, a walk of 13 miles to Hornillos del Camino.
 
Before I sign off I want to tell you that I am trying my best not to over use words or word combinations like amazing, unbelievable, beautiful, fantastic, nicest, spectacular, unforgettable and many others. It's just not easy. I trust you will cut me some slack. I know two teachers who will. Good night.

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