Friday, May 31, 2013

Bethany Shea ..... 1942 --2012 .

This is the continuation of my walk from San Juan de Ortega to Burgos. I am leaving the " village of  8 rooms " and a population of 20 to walk 15.9 miles to the city of Burgos with a population of 166,000. Quite a contrast.   There will be one very significant elevation change along the way and nearly half the distance will be on paved roads as I approach the City.

The weather girl was correct, it's cold and the wind is blowing at about 20 miles per hour.  If she really wants to be a weather girl she should allso include in her summary a wind chill factor. 

The Camino leaving Ages is very similar in its terrain until I am facing the hill. It's nothing but rocks. Rocks of all shapes and sizes and none of the trail has been spared, I will have no dance moves which will help me avoid this challenge. My Limos and poles are veterans and ready to go.

The climb is made slower by the wind. It's direction is directly into me, a head win. Several stops to complete the climb are needed. No hurry, avoiding mistakes that would turn an ankle are far more Important than speed. 

As I reach the half way point I can see the Cross at the top of the hill. I can also see the large collection if rocks at its base. I won't know how tall it is or the size and number of rocks until I reach the top.

When I finally reach the top I can now see just how large it is. The rocks have been placed there by pilgrims at the base of The Cross. The pilgrims have also left behind other personal items.

I begin to see items just beneath the rocks. Notes and pictures many impossible to see completely because of the rock cover. I am about to turn away and get back to The Camino when I look down one more time and there it is. 

Almost as if it was meant to be seen by me there is one picture beneath the rocks which is completely visible. A picture of a woman looking right at me. It has on it above her picture only her name 
 Beverly Shea. Just beneath her picture the dates 1942 - 2012. It's a nice picture and she looks like a nice person. Someone close to her has placed it here beneath The Cross. A message to that person or persons ... The picture is still in good condition and she looks happy.

The Camino on its way to Burgos is different from many other parts I have walked since I started in St. Jean. Until now the villages were separated by significant distances. Today they are much closer together and they appear to be more in need of repair. Perhaps it's the City effect . The Closer you get to the City the closer all of its typical problems become exposed. I don't know maybe I'm just reading to much into it.

At about nine miles the Camino changes from trail to pavement at in increasing rate. Traffic and noise are the norm. This has been by far the least attractive walk. With about three or four miles to go I am walking along a very narrow strip of pavement facing the rushing traffice which are now primarily trucks, very big trucks. I feel like I'm walking toward Newark New Jersey on I-95. There won't be many pictures taken today.

I am now entering the outer fringes of the city so I decide to stop and take a look at my map. The last big city I entered was Longrono and getting through it was a real challenge.

I am looking at the map and its shows two Camino routes into the city from where I am. The primary route is always marked in yellow and the alternate route is marked in green. I have been walking for 14 days on the yellow route , I'm not about to change.

For the next two hours I am walking through some rundown industrial area that is a mixture of ugly buildings sprinkled in between some really ugly buildings! If this two hour walk is representative of what Burgos is I will be looking forward to tomorrow's  exit.

I am finally in the part of the city which helps me to immediately forget the last two hours. It's very beautiful. The Cathedral of Burgos is stunning and it is big. Pictures once again begin making sense. Only one problem . I am no closer to figuring out where my hotel is now anymore than I was two hours ago. I know I have walked well past 15 miles . 

As I am wandering through small side streets trying to find the Feran Gonzalez Boutique Hotel I nearly step on an old lady who is sitting on the ground surrounded by all of her worldly positions and holding a small wooden bowl. 

I solve my Pamplona error and she is stunned by what I place in her bowl. She is thanking me continuously as I walk away. Finally the better ending I referred to back on stage four or five. I'm tired and I take a seat in the Plaza Of Santa Maria. I am reading my guide book and map when an older Spanish gentlemen asks "where are you going ?"

I show him the map and he politely tells me that I am a good distance from my Hotel and shows me how many turns I will need to make successfully in order to find my Hotel . He pauses, points and says "taxi". These people are nice and they are smart too.

I find the taxi stand drop my backpack into the trunk and I am in the taxi for about 15 minutes. There would have been no way for me to have found this location to say nothing of the fact that I had walked past my destination by about a mile and a half.

I am tired and I need to find a Supermercado to pick up a few things. First I will check in and rest for a few minutes . As I check in the desk clerk hands me a note about meeting Michele and Rainer for dinner at 7:00. I don't have much time so the rest will need to be put off. 

I need to stop today's post and get my shopping taken care of. Then a shower and dinner. I will catch up tomorrow from here and then its on to stage 15, a nice walk of 13 miles from Burgos to Horrnillos del Camino.

Good night.




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