Thursday, June 13, 2013

Stage 28 ,,,, down the hill a drop of two thousand feet, thirteen and a half miles to Triacastela

I am awake early. I slept well because of how much Stage 27 and the uphill climb took out of me. The good news is that its behind me. I am now in the final Region of the Camino, Galicia. When I complete today's Stage 28 I will be six days from Santiago.

I will take my time leaving today because when I first look out the window it is raining and there is some hail. It's cold at the top of the mountain. It's very cold. I get dressed and go to have coffee early just to get outside and try to get a feel for the weather.

It's a short walk to the cafe. It's packed with pilgrims, some of whom are down right rude. There is one woman trying to keep up with all of the coffee orders. It's not possible, each cup is made individually , its not like the waitress at a diner who just walks around with a pot of coffee in her hand continuously offering refills. There is also one guy working and his only job is to make the toast and he can't keep up. Madness. I will come back later.

I'm in no hurry because the weather is not good right now so I will wait it out, perhaps it will improve. 
I will just go back to my "suite" and take a look at the map for today's walk and do a better job of preparing . 

I also forgot to tell you about the British couple I met last night while icing my leg. John and Vivian who live outside of London I think is what they said. Nice people . 

Our conversation starts with a question from John about my injury. I explain that it's just a muscle strain and that with some ice and my Spanish hot cream I will be fine. By the way I don't know what the injury really is I am just guessing but I do think that's what it is. 

The conversation continues about how tough the mountain is and I am a bit surprised at how relaxed and comfortable they appear to be after such a tough day. John asks me where I began my Camino and I tell him St Jean to which he responds  "that's where we started as well, three years ago". Three years ago ! Now that's what I call a  "Detour", a really big detour. Maybe I'm not in the record book yet.

He explains. He and Vivian return to the Camino each year, select a section they will walk and then return home. I'm not sure but I think there is a donkey service involved. It does not matter, everyone does the Camino in whatever way fits them best.

So now I've met pilgrims on both ends of the spectrum. The Brazilian guy who will complete the Camino in just twenty four days and this English couple who will compete there's in perhaps four or five years.

I was right about the weather. At 9:30 its vastly improved and I return for coffee and now there are only a few people. I order my coffee and toast. It's ok but not great. One thing that strikes me is the number of people who are wearing shorts. It's still pretty cold. I am still a wimp.

I am packed and on my way with everything, yes everything. I also know exactly where I am going and how I will approach today's walk. I will go slow. I will take breaks along the way at a number of check points. I will also eat something when I reach Alto do Poio which is about four and a half miles from my starting point. I will just walk past Casa Jaime today, I don't yet need directions.

It's cold but I have dressed as well as I could for it. My hands are cold but everything else is ok. I will soon be shedding layers as the weather improves all day and it actually gets warm.

There are a number of up hill climbs and then back down again until you finally get to the last hill that brings you to Alto do Poio. The last hill to the top is a pretty steep hill and I take a couple of breaks, I'm in no hurry. 

When I reach the top there is immediately on my right about thirty pilgrims sitting on the patio having something to eat or drink. This looks like a popular place, I will stop here. 

When I walk inside there are a few tables and I see that a number of pilgrims are having the soup. I don't know what it is but it looks good. I order the soup. It's spinach soup with small pieces of vegetables, its very good. I remove the Limos  and give the passengers a break. I will repeat this at least three more times today. I do notice that the Limos are looking a bit tired. Just get me to Santiago, only about eighty five more miles.

The steep downhill section does not start until I am about four miles from the destination. Once it starts it will not stop until Stage 28 is completed. I just go slow, the trail is once again covered in rocks. 

I arrive without an event at 5:15. It was difficult in parts but nothing like yesterday. It's a nice little village. Take care of the gear, shower and then go to try a glass of white wine which is what Galicia is famous for.

Tomorrow, Friday June 14th will be Stage 29, a walk of only twelve miles to Sarria. Only six days to Santiago. Have a nice day. 

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