I slept with the window open all night because it was warm and I have no chance of sleeping in a warm room. Also working with the sheep are the two very large people in the next room. I now understand what it's like to hear snoring at the professional level.
I am packed and will soon leave after the morning fix of cafe-con-leche and a pound of carbs. Speaking of carbs I have had a couple of people ask me about how the Camino is effecting my weight. Well I am not sure but that's not all that significant. I think the carbs and the Rioja are a good offset. I do believe I have lost some weight but I have know idea how much. Remember the list of items not included in my room a couple of days ago? If I missed it add a scale.
A few months back if you had asked me why I was doing this I would be somewhat vague but I almost always said "lose some weight". That is now gone from my list. If it happens great but if not that's fine.
I also recieved an email that actually made me laugh. A friend at the Club suggested that after I complete the Camino I should think about a three day hike in the Grand Canyon! Sammy, I think you need to get out of the sun, it can be dangerous. I'm not sure about a lot of things but I am sure that I will not be hiking the Grand Canyon!
When I get back and have rested a bit I will return to seeing Edwin three days a week. I will probably walk to and from those sessions which is about eight miles round trip. I will be wearing my Nike Town Car's, my Limo's will be retired and mounted in my office. I'm not kidding, I will have my Limo's in a glass case.
Back to stage 20. A walk of 17 miles to my room at the Hostal San Martin. I have read the map and there is only one turn and it takes place in Mansilla de las Mullas. The trail today will be long, flat and windless. It will also be hot. About 90 degrees. That will require lots of water because the first and only stop will not be until the tenth mile.
If I take four liters of water that will add four pounds to my backpack. Add some food and you start to have a weight issue. This will be the third day in a row where extra water is needed and it will have an impact. I can already feel the difference in my shoulders and hips.
I order half a bocadillo with ham, cheese and tomato to go. It's big, about a half loaf of bread. Good bread, carbs all carbs. I also bring an orange inspite of the added weight. The oranges here are not only good they are large.
I am on the Camino and I am passing a number of pilgrims I have not seen before. There are many who begin at the half way point or later. In order to receive a Compostela in Santiago you must start at or before Sarria which is 133.9 km or about 84 miles. If the first stamp in your Camino Passport is in Sarria you must have a minimum of two stamps per day from there to Santiago. Forget to have two stamps, no Compostela.
The trail is narrow and getting around two pilgrims walking side by side can only be accomplished by making sure they hear you. Just a Buen Camino as you approach them and you will be given a clear path.
I am now approaching a guy I have never seen before. He is wearing ear plugs and is singing and having a good time. As I pass him I just wave and he does the same, he obviously can't here me. I will soon find out more about "The Singer". That's the name I have given him.
At about the seven mile mark I can see one person sitting on a Camino marker. He looks familiar. It's Fernando and Nelly. They also missed the turn! It's not just me. I yell out to him "Brazil" and he responds with a nickname he gave me when I bought my new 7 Euro sunglasses, "James Bond"!
I stop and take off my backpack. It's been a tough walk and its getting harder because of the heat. Nelly is limping. She shows me her left leg. It's swollen and there is a rash above her ankle. She goes on to explain that she wore two pairs of socks yesterday and the heat became a problem. They will visit a Doctor when they get to Mansilla.
The conversation switches to how we both missed the turn. Fernando is of course laughing as he try's to explain to me in Portuguese, with Nelly interpreting what happened. Long story, they saw the same marker I did. I think they are relieved that they were not the only ones to make the mistake. I decide that it's a good time for my Orange. While we are sitting there "the singer" catches up with us. Nelly tells me that they met the "Singer" at their Hostal last night, he is Brazilian. They chat for a minute and he puts his ear plugs in and waves goodby and leaves.
Nelly then tells me that he started in St Jean six days after we did and that he is averaging about 24 miles a day and will complete the Camino in just 24 days. He obviously is a better walker than he is a singer.
We pack up and get back to the job at hand. It's now officially hot. I don't know what the temperature is I just know its hot. I am also consuming the water at a pretty good clip. There is one and only one tiny place about two miles ahead. I will stop for water.
The balance of the 17 miles is just the same. Dead straight, flat with out wind, no shade and hot. I yearn for a rain shower. As I leave the little water station I catch up with a young girl who I have seen with the other children. She is very bright and very confident. She has traveled a great deal for someone as young as she is . I remember her because of her first and middle name. Braydyn Ryan.
My grandson's name is Brayden, a slightly different spelling and my son's name is as you know, Ryan. I forgot to mention it a couple of days ago. I have missed a bunch of things, no big deal.
I am in the Hostal and I cannot wait to get in the shower. Room seven. I take care of my gear and then a shower. My LImo passengers are really tired and for the first time sore. It was just a matter of time. Speaking of time I covered the 17 miles in less than six hours and I did not make a single wrong turn.
This will not make any sense but after I take a shower I take a walk back into town. Taking a walk after 17 very tough miles makes no sense but I need a couple of things and the market is back in town about a half mile away.
I bump into a couple of the children and they all agree that today was very difficult. I agree and I am on my way back to the Hostal. I have not seen any of others, just Fernando and Nelly. Rainer sent me an email that he has gone on to Leon. We will meet there tomorrow for dinner.
That's stage 21 to Leon. The walk will cover a distance of only 12 miles. It's like a day off! Good night.
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