Tuesday, June 4, 2013

Stage 19 ... I just walked 17 miles in less than 5 and a half hours .. That's great but I missed a turn, I'm in the wrong town!

Not a problem. Details soon. But first a brief update on the group. Most are doing just fine but some are having increasing issues. 

I have not seen Mee-sue in two days. That does not mean much . She could be ahead or just slowed down a little. Burgos Ray was last seen yesterday when he decided to stop at an Albergue about six miles short of where everyone else finished stage 18. That means he is now facing a continuos adjustment but that will be difficult because stage 19 and 20 are very long and there are not many options. I doubt I will see him again unless he takes the donkey service. Anna is hurting but very determined. I believe she will just press on.

The rest of the crew is fine but tired. I saw lots of ice bags last night at the Albergue. Ice around here is scarce but you can find it. Sports creams are at a premium. 

Now for Bono. It was about five or six days ago when he first showed up. He just latched onto the group. Why have I given him the name Bono? Well the guy just never takes off his sunglasses. Day or night. Maybe if I did that I might have the first or second pair I lost. Not the point. 

I think he was attracted to the group because of the number of young woman in the group. He is from  Montrnegro. I get a bad vibe from this guy. I would guess he is about 45 years old. I just don't like the way he circles the girls. I also know that a couple of them are not entirely comfortable around him. I sat next to him twice, not by choice. I know that when he is near me he is careful and I am certain he knows I have him pegged right. 

Time will tell and I hope my vibe is off. I don't think so. I would hate to see Bono have to get a new pair of sunglasses. I will keep you posted.

Today I am walking 17 miles, stage 19. Today also is two weeks from the day I will walk into the Cathedral of Santiago. Just two weeks or about 200 miles. My destination today is (was) Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos but I will end up in Bercianos Del Real Camino. How you ask did this happen?

Rainert, Michele and I have coffee and decide that we will have something to eat at the first village. Just like yesterday it will be long, flat and straight. It will also be for the first time, hot. Probably around 80 degrees. We will have breakfast in Mortatinos. Good decision. Scrambled egg and melted cheese bocadillo . The bread is fresh, and it's put back in the oven for just seconds and its perfect. The coffee is also better than what we had before we left the Albergue. 

Aside from the wrong turn I think this bocadillo will be the highlight of the day. Very few pictures. It's just a duplicate of yesterday but it is hot and there is no shade. Once we get past our first break location there will be very little until we get to Newark, sorry I meant Sahagun a city of 170,000. Completely lacking in anything that's attractive I can only assume that all 170,000 must be prisoners. Why on earth would you stay here unless forced to? It's a dump. Sorry, that's probably not going to put me on the Sahagun tourist of the year list. 

 So here's the wrong turn. I am walking through the city. I am ahead of the entire group. My pace today is faster. Can't explain it but when it's working and there's no physical reason to slow down you just go. The downside is you are not following anyone you know who is going to the same place you are.

In every large city I have walked through, except Pamplona, the Camino markers have been at best poorly maintained. The Camino today has two routes. One is the Roman path and one is the Camino Frances. In the middle of Sahagun the two Camino's split. One easterly route the other to the west. Tomorrow they will join again but not again today. So I am not lost and I am not off the Camino. I am just not going to be able to get to the room I have booked. 

So here I am nearly six hours of walking at a very good pace and I can see the town up ahead. It's the only town or village I have seen since Sahagun about six miles ago. Great, I will get to the town at about 3:15. Plenty of time to take care of my gear, take a shower, rest my Limo passengers and then wait until everyone arrives. 

I enter the town and immediately begin looking for my Casa. It's the Casa el Cura. I see signs for the municipal Albergue but nothing for my Casa. I walk past the Hotel Rivero but still no Casa del Cura. I have the hotel name printed in my notes on my iPhone so I can just ask by showing the address and ask "Donde es Casa del Cura"? I try this twice but no response.

I get to what is clearly the end of town and I double back. There is a bar-cafe at the entrance to the town. I will ask there. i show the young woman behind the counter my iPhone, after I order a small beer, and she says in perfect English, "you missed the turn". I take out my guide book and I open it and she points to the turn back in Sahagun and then she points to where the Casa is and then to where we are located. This is not good. Yes, the Camino will join together before my next destination but where will I find a room now for tonight?

I am already thinking that I may have to sleep in one of the bunk bed Albergue's! They may also be full. I pick up my gear and make my way back to that Hotel I saw, the Rivero. I walk in and the young woman behind the counter starts asking me questions in Spsnish at light speed. She figures out quickly that I have a problem when I respond to the only thing she has said that I think I understand " reservation?"
No. 

She yells something to someone and an older woman comes to the counter. She speaks a little English but enough for her to know that I am asking for a single room. She grabs a key and starts toward the stairs. I follow her. She stops at number 5 and unlocks the door. I look in, there are two very small twin beds, a window and a sink. No shower. Before I can say anything she turns around and opens a door across the hall. It's a bathroom with a shower and she tells me that's it mine included for 25 Euro. I say Si and I now have a room and it has wifi. 

I begin sending emails to a Robin and Sharel.  Wrong turn .... No big deal. Tomorrow a walk of about 16.5 miles to where the two Camino's join again. I am on my way to Mansilla de las Mulas, or at least that's where I am going to try and get to. All part of the journey. Good night.

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