I just woke up. It's Sunday and I am now writing the end of stage 15 which means I will be nearly caught up. I did see the pictures Robin selected for the posting. Nice job Honey, really nice job.
The only significant structure we will pass by today is a short distance from our destination. We will pass under The Arco de San Anton. St. Anthony of Egypt , patron Saint of Animals. The structure is over a thousand years old.
We arrive in the village of Castrojeriz and begin the search for our two Hotels. It is about 3:30, we have once again made good time. Before we begin searching for our Hotel's we will stop in at what turns out to be a famous Camino location.
As you enter this nice little place you immediately pick up the smell of something good coming from the Kitchen. The first room you enter is small and has two long tables positioned perpendicular to the bar. Michele heads to the bar and orders three small draft beers. He begins to speak with the owner.
Michele's understanding of and his passion for food pays off once again. We take a seat and out comes a combination of garlic stuffed green olives, the best and thinnest ham to date and a plate of cheese which has a coating of olive oil. The owner brings with him a bottle of Milcampos Tempernio
Which is the icing on the cake.
The owner is now holding court with us and he and Michele are raving about the dish and other combinations. The owner is so engaged in the conversation that he decides to just turn around take two steps to the front door and lock it! He just closed and its 3:45 . He will open again but for now he does not want any more customers to distract him from this conversation. We now have a private room. As I am sitting right next to the door I can see all of the people trying to come in banging on the door, the owner just ignores them. It's good to be King.
He goes back to the kitchen and returns with other types of ham and he also brings a book. He begins to explain to Michele that the book which was written by a very famous German author mentions the restaurant we are sitting in. Both Rainer and Michele immediately recognize the authors name and they begin to discuss his writings. Now the owner is very happy.
Long story short. The writer decides to just drop everything one day and head to the Camino sometime around 2001. When he completes the Camino he writes about it and it becomes a huge success in Germany and is directly connected to the increase in the number of Germans who walk the Camino.
The author, Hape Hans Peter as best I understand the explanation refers to the restaurant La Taberna where we are seated, as the best restaurant on The Camino. He shows the page where the comment is made. Michele asks if we can return for dinner and the owner reserves a table for us at 8:30. I think its going to be very good.
We check into our Hotels. Michele could not get a room where Rainer and I are staying. The two Hotels are next to each other and basically share the same cafe- bar-front desk. We will meet there at 8:15.
Once the gear is taken care of there is a small opportunity to try to catch up on the blog, read a few emails and just relax after a shower.
I feel fine, no significant health issues so far as I am approaching the half way point! Time to return to dinner. Michele is talking to a new pilgrim I have not met before. His name is Rainer and he is from Germany. He started his Camino in Burgos which means he just finished his second day. He does not know if he will continue, it's been very tough. He has no idea what hard is!
He turns to me and says that Michele told him that I am 65 and that I have walked 15 days starting in St. Jean. He asks me if that is true? I tell him yes and he says he does not know how I could do it because he is only 59 and is thinking about quitting. I just stay quite. What I wanted to say was stay away from the buffet table and you might make it. I nick name him Burgos Ray. Time will tell.
The three of us leave for dinner and we are not disappointed. The restaurant has three people working there. The owner, his wife and his son. They are all equally passionate about their restaurant and it's food and wine.
We sit and the son is talking with Michele about the menu. All I understand is that we must have the garlic soup. We all do and it's very good. The wine is selected by Rainer, its a reserve Rioja. I have the blue fish and a salad and Its all as good as I had thought it would be.
It's late, I am tired. Back to the Hotel Stage16 tomorrow will be to Fromista, a walk of 16.1 miles with two significant hills. The first and most difficult hill comes quickly and has an elevation change of about 600 feet.
Burgos Ray will be facing his first real test tomorrow but he's lucky because at least it's not going to snow.
Until tomorrow, good night.
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