Stage 27 .... Up and over the mountain .... By far my toughest day .... Even tougher than my snow day.

At the end of Stage 26 I am meeting Rainer for dinner at the hotel. Dinner will start late, at 9:00 and I don't mind because after what I experienced with my "detour" I need to just regroup mentally as well as needing some rest. I get my gear taken care of and a shower. I have about two hours to myself . 

I set the alarm on my iPhone just in case I fall a sleep while trying to get the days blog written. Trying to put the day together mentally is not going to happen which leads to the decision to separate the "detour" from the rest of the day.

As I am going through the gear I decide that at least two pieces of clothing will be left behind in order to reduce weight for Stage 27. Not difficult given the fact that all of it is shot. 

Dinner is good but not great. I have the duck but its not cooked enough. I won't send it back, its just not important, I'm not very hungry. The wine is good, we are now in the Bierzo region. Rainer came here by bus and has not decided if he will walk Stage 27.

I don't tell him about the "detour", its too embarrassing and the details would leave little time for any other topics. We do discuss my up coming task which I will complete during my last seven days, Stages 28-34. I will tell you what that is after I complete Stage 28. I have been planning it since I was in training.

I meet Rainer for breakfast. I need to go over Stage 27 the destination, O'Cebreiro in detail. There are three routes to choose from to get over the mountain. They all will require the last five mile elevation challenge and I don't want a repeat of the "minor" error I made in Stage 26. I am a bit nervous about having three route choices but I confident that Rainer will know what's best. 

He has prepared a written note which gives me nine checks points. He has included the distance between each in kilometers. I can just keep it in my pocket. He shows me the route in my book. We finish breakfast. Rainer is taking his time and has decided to go ahead to Triacastela by bus because he can't find a hotel in O'Cebreiro. Triacastela is the Stage 28 destination on Thursday.

The first ten miles of Stage 27 are fairly flat and on a solid surface mostly paved road through small villages (the check points) which gives me plenty of opportunity to stop, rest and keep up the water supply. I will need it, it's getting very warm. Rainer told me at breakfast that the temperature today will be as high as 29 C which I know is very warm. I really do need to figure out the C math.

I do stop several times because I know what's ahead. I will soon find out that I really don't know just how very, very difficult it will be. When I do stop I am now really taking breaks including taking off my Limos and even undressing the passengers. It's all ok because everyone does it, it's the Camino.

At one of my last check points I have my pre-climb the Mountain meal. Keep in mind that these little places are just mostly snacks shops. Here it is: a Diet Coke, a banana , a small donut , a Snickers and a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice. How's that for a power lunch.

I have now walked for about eight miles and I think I can see it, the Mountain, hard to be sure but I am starting to get a sense of what is coming.

 

I have seen a growing number of pilgrims today on this route. Many are limping. I will see less and less of them as the climb starts. Two distinct memories will stay with me at the end of Stage 27.  The first is the number of times I was sure I had reached the top and would quickly realize that I had not. I can't tell you how many times I thought it was over but it's more than eight or nine times . I just stopped counting. Nothing more disappointing than thinking you are there and you are not only wrong but what is in front of you around a hidden corner is another piece of the hill that is steeper and its rock covered surface is worse. My poles are working very hard and my hands are feeling it.

The second memory I will keep from Stage 27 is the Bull. Yes the a bull. I not only have pictures, I have a video. As I am climbing yet another hill I did not think existed, I look up and coming directly at me from the top of the hill and completely taking up the entire trail is a heard of cows, all very large and all with horns . There is also a bull. He is big and his color is black, the cows are all brown and or tan. I have to find a place to get out of the way. I climb up the bank on the side of the trail and find just enough room to get out of the way or I hope it's enough room. 

The herd is being lead down the mountain by an old man with a very long stick and three dogs. His horses are just walking behind him and the herd. As they pass me they are not more than arms length from me. The bull just slowly passes and he an gives me a glance. The video is quite good. I will send pictures to Robin.

Speaking of pictures I do take some of the view from the top. It's the reward. In the end it takes me nearly eleven hours to complete Stage 27. I get to my room and as fast as I can I am in the shower. There will be no need for Veep today. I will throw away everything I was wearing. I have completely sweat through it all. Even Veep in a machine is no match. I will buy a tee shirt and find some replacements as soon as possible. 

I am not very hungry but I go to the cafe where I sit and and have a large salad and ice my leg while eating. It's quite common. Hard to believe but in just one hour after that brutal walk I'm recovered and feel good. Just a little ice and some Spanish leg cream and I will be ready for Stage 28, a walk to Triacastela just 13.2 miles but all down hill and with little shade. 

Another detour! Yes I have done it again. This error will cause me to walk an additional 3.2 miles on my most difficult day. I did not make a wrong turn. I get to the top of the final hill and I see a sign with an arrow to O'Cebbeiro. I just keep going and begin to get a bit concerned that I have done it again! 

I walk slowly done a hill through the trees and I see a small building. I will stop there and find out where I am. I am exhausted. I walk into the Casa Jaime and ask for a small beer. I am the only customer. I will soon find out why. I show the young woman behind the bar my iPad and ask how much farther to O'Cebbeiro. She looks at me with a strange look and then tells me that I just walked right through and past it! 

No choice, I turn around and begin the march back up the hill of about 3.1 km to my hotel. I have now added about 3.2 miles to this a very difficult day and yes I do recognize the hotel once I get there as a  place I just walked right past.

Just seven more days and I will complete my Camino. I have only 96 miles in front of me. That's it .... Have a nice day.