Stage 20. Do sheep ever sleep? .......my room overlooks the barnyard. I can't count the bah,bah,bahs.

Why is it that some people believe that if you can't sleep all you need to do is simply count sheep and you will soon be fast asleep? Trust me its not true especially when the sheep don't sleep. As I write this I can hear the rooster just outside my window telling me to get started on stage 20. I give up. I will leave early today.

I slept with the window open all night because it was warm and I have no chance of sleeping in a warm room. Also working with the sheep are the two very large people in the next room. I now understand what it's like to hear snoring at the professional level. 

I am packed and will soon leave after the morning fix of cafe-con-leche and a pound of carbs. Speaking of carbs I have had a couple of people ask me about how the Camino is effecting my weight. Well I am not sure but that's not all that significant. I think the carbs and the Rioja are a good offset. I do believe I have lost some weight but I have know idea how much. Remember the list of items not included in my room a couple of days ago? If I missed it add a scale.

A few months back if you had asked me why I was doing this I would be somewhat vague but I almost always said "lose some weight". That is now gone from my list. If it happens great but if not that's fine.

I also recieved an email that actually made me laugh. A friend at the Club suggested that after I complete the Camino I should think about a three day hike in the Grand Canyon! Sammy, I think you need to get out of the sun, it can be dangerous. I'm not sure about a lot of things but I am sure that I will not be hiking the Grand Canyon!

When I get back and have rested a bit I will return to seeing Edwin three days a week. I will probably walk to and from those sessions which is about eight miles round trip. I will be wearing my Nike Town Car's, my Limo's will be retired and mounted in my office. I'm not kidding, I will have my Limo's in a glass case. 

Back to stage 20. A walk of 17 miles to my room at the Hostal San Martin. I have read the map and there is only one turn and it takes place in Mansilla de las Mullas. The trail today will be long, flat and windless. It will also be hot. About 90 degrees. That will require lots of water because the first and only stop will not be until the tenth mile.

If I take four liters of water that will add four pounds to my backpack. Add some food and you start to have a weight issue. This will be the third day in a row where extra water is needed and it will have an impact. I can already feel the difference in my shoulders and hips. 

I order half a bocadillo with ham, cheese and tomato to go. It's big, about a half loaf of bread. Good bread, carbs all carbs. I also bring an orange inspite of the added weight. The oranges here are not only good they are large.

I am on the Camino and I am passing a number of pilgrims I have not seen before. There are many who begin at the half way point or later. In order to receive a Compostela in Santiago you must start at or before Sarria which is 133.9 km or about 84 miles. If the first stamp in your Camino Passport is in Sarria you must have a minimum of two stamps per day from there to Santiago. Forget to have two stamps, no Compostela. 

The trail is narrow and getting around two pilgrims walking side by side can only be accomplished by making sure they hear you. Just a Buen Camino as you approach them and you will be given a clear path. 

I am now approaching a guy I have never seen before. He is wearing ear plugs and is singing and having a good time. As I pass him I just wave and he does the same, he obviously can't here me. I will soon find out more about "The Singer". That's the name I have given him.

At about the seven mile mark I can see one person sitting on a Camino marker. He looks familiar. It's Fernando and Nelly. They also missed the turn! It's not just me. I yell out to him "Brazil" and he responds with a nickname he gave me when I bought my new 7 Euro sunglasses, "James Bond"!

I stop and take off my backpack. It's been a tough walk and its getting harder because of the heat. Nelly is limping. She shows me her left leg. It's swollen and there is a rash above her ankle. She goes on to explain that she wore two pairs of socks yesterday and the heat became a problem. They will visit a Doctor when they get to Mansilla.

The conversation switches to how we both missed the turn. Fernando is of course laughing as he try's to explain to me in Portuguese, with Nelly interpreting what happened. Long story, they saw the same marker I did. I think they are relieved that they were not the only ones to make the mistake. I decide that it's a good time for my Orange. While we are sitting there "the singer" catches up with us. Nelly tells me that they met the "Singer" at their Hostal last night, he is Brazilian. They chat for a minute and he puts his ear plugs in and waves goodby and leaves.

Nelly then tells me that he started in St Jean six days after we did and that he is averaging about 24 miles a day and will complete the Camino in just 24 days. He obviously is a better walker than he is a singer.

We pack up and get back to the job at hand. It's now officially hot. I don't know what the temperature is I just know its hot. I am also consuming the water at a pretty good clip. There is one and only one tiny place about two miles ahead. I will stop for water.

The balance of the 17 miles is just the same. Dead straight, flat with out wind, no shade and hot. I yearn for a rain shower. As I leave the little water station I catch up with a young girl who I have seen with the other children. She is very bright and very confident. She has traveled a great deal for someone as young as she is . I remember her because of her first and middle name. Braydyn Ryan.

My grandson's name is Brayden, a slightly different spelling and my son's name is as you know, Ryan. I forgot to mention it a couple of days ago. I have missed a bunch of things, no big deal.

I am in the Hostal and I cannot wait to get in the shower. Room seven. I take care of my gear and then a shower. My LImo passengers are really tired and for the first time sore. It was just a matter of time. Speaking of time I covered the 17 miles in less than six hours and I did not make a single wrong turn.

This will not make any sense but after I take a shower I take a walk back into town. Taking a walk after 17 very tough miles makes no sense but I need a couple of things and the market is back in town about a half mile away.

I bump into a couple of the children and they all agree that today was very difficult. I agree and I am on my way back to the Hostal. I have not seen any of  others, just Fernando and Nelly. Rainer sent me an email that he has gone on to Leon. We will meet there tomorrow for dinner. 

That's stage 21 to Leon. The walk will cover a distance of only 12 miles. It's like a day off! Good night.

Stage 19 ... I just walked 17 miles in less than 5 and a half hours .. That's great but I missed a turn, I'm in the wrong town!

Not a problem. Details soon. But first a brief update on the group. Most are doing just fine but some are having increasing issues. 

I have not seen Mee-sue in two days. That does not mean much . She could be ahead or just slowed down a little. Burgos Ray was last seen yesterday when he decided to stop at an Albergue about six miles short of where everyone else finished stage 18. That means he is now facing a continuos adjustment but that will be difficult because stage 19 and 20 are very long and there are not many options. I doubt I will see him again unless he takes the donkey service. Anna is hurting but very determined. I believe she will just press on.

The rest of the crew is fine but tired. I saw lots of ice bags last night at the Albergue. Ice around here is scarce but you can find it. Sports creams are at a premium. 

Now for Bono. It was about five or six days ago when he first showed up. He just latched onto the group. Why have I given him the name Bono? Well the guy just never takes off his sunglasses. Day or night. Maybe if I did that I might have the first or second pair I lost. Not the point. 

I think he was attracted to the group because of the number of young woman in the group. He is from  Montrnegro. I get a bad vibe from this guy. I would guess he is about 45 years old. I just don't like the way he circles the girls. I also know that a couple of them are not entirely comfortable around him. I sat next to him twice, not by choice. I know that when he is near me he is careful and I am certain he knows I have him pegged right. 

Time will tell and I hope my vibe is off. I don't think so. I would hate to see Bono have to get a new pair of sunglasses. I will keep you posted.

Today I am walking 17 miles, stage 19. Today also is two weeks from the day I will walk into the Cathedral of Santiago. Just two weeks or about 200 miles. My destination today is (was) Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos but I will end up in Bercianos Del Real Camino. How you ask did this happen?

Rainert, Michele and I have coffee and decide that we will have something to eat at the first village. Just like yesterday it will be long, flat and straight. It will also be for the first time, hot. Probably around 80 degrees. We will have breakfast in Mortatinos. Good decision. Scrambled egg and melted cheese bocadillo . The bread is fresh, and it's put back in the oven for just seconds and its perfect. The coffee is also better than what we had before we left the Albergue. 

Aside from the wrong turn I think this bocadillo will be the highlight of the day. Very few pictures. It's just a duplicate of yesterday but it is hot and there is no shade. Once we get past our first break location there will be very little until we get to Newark, sorry I meant Sahagun a city of 170,000. Completely lacking in anything that's attractive I can only assume that all 170,000 must be prisoners. Why on earth would you stay here unless forced to? It's a dump. Sorry, that's probably not going to put me on the Sahagun tourist of the year list. 

 So here's the wrong turn. I am walking through the city. I am ahead of the entire group. My pace today is faster. Can't explain it but when it's working and there's no physical reason to slow down you just go. The downside is you are not following anyone you know who is going to the same place you are.

In every large city I have walked through, except Pamplona, the Camino markers have been at best poorly maintained. The Camino today has two routes. One is the Roman path and one is the Camino Frances. In the middle of Sahagun the two Camino's split. One easterly route the other to the west. Tomorrow they will join again but not again today. So I am not lost and I am not off the Camino. I am just not going to be able to get to the room I have booked. 

So here I am nearly six hours of walking at a very good pace and I can see the town up ahead. It's the only town or village I have seen since Sahagun about six miles ago. Great, I will get to the town at about 3:15. Plenty of time to take care of my gear, take a shower, rest my Limo passengers and then wait until everyone arrives. 

I enter the town and immediately begin looking for my Casa. It's the Casa el Cura. I see signs for the municipal Albergue but nothing for my Casa. I walk past the Hotel Rivero but still no Casa del Cura. I have the hotel name printed in my notes on my iPhone so I can just ask by showing the address and ask "Donde es Casa del Cura"? I try this twice but no response.

I get to what is clearly the end of town and I double back. There is a bar-cafe at the entrance to the town. I will ask there. i show the young woman behind the counter my iPhone, after I order a small beer, and she says in perfect English, "you missed the turn". I take out my guide book and I open it and she points to the turn back in Sahagun and then she points to where the Casa is and then to where we are located. This is not good. Yes, the Camino will join together before my next destination but where will I find a room now for tonight?

I am already thinking that I may have to sleep in one of the bunk bed Albergue's! They may also be full. I pick up my gear and make my way back to that Hotel I saw, the Rivero. I walk in and the young woman behind the counter starts asking me questions in Spsnish at light speed. She figures out quickly that I have a problem when I respond to the only thing she has said that I think I understand " reservation?"

No. 

She yells something to someone and an older woman comes to the counter. She speaks a little English but enough for her to know that I am asking for a single room. She grabs a key and starts toward the stairs. I follow her. She stops at number 5 and unlocks the door. I look in, there are two very small twin beds, a window and a sink. No shower. Before I can say anything she turns around and opens a door across the hall. It's a bathroom with a shower and she tells me that's it mine included for 25 Euro. I say Si and I now have a room and it has wifi. 

I begin sending emails to a Robin and Sharel.  Wrong turn .... No big deal. Tomorrow a walk of about 16.5 miles to where the two Camino's join again. I am on my way to Mansilla de las Mulas, or at least that's where I am going to try and get to. All part of the journey. Good night.

A long walk today ..... 17 miles . Bad news from Brazil.

In my last post I made an error and said that today would be 21 miles. That was incorrect. It will be long but not 21 miles, just 17. Today will be different in a number of ways. I will also include a short summary at the end of this post regarding the nightmare of those two days years ago at the Hospital. I could not finish and include the ending, it was too difficult to go any further. It is a good ending and I want to close with what took place after Ryan's recovery. 

First today. It's Monday June the 3rd. I am awake early and have just started to pack when the first issue of the day is in front of me. Most of last nights laundry is not dry. Zip locks to the rescue. I will just deal with the problem at the end of today's journey.

I have plenty of Veep left. I think I should contact the Veep detergent company and ask about a US distribution deal. Just think. "Veep, the Camino Pilgrims Friend". It still needs work but I am close to finishing my work on the final logo. I can't share that with you, top secret.

I head to breakfast. It's 9:15. I get my coffee and order a ham and cheese sandwhich. Not a bocadillo. It's ok because that's all there is. I am nearly finished and Rainer joins me. Michele is staying at a different Hotel and has started early today on The Camino. He is walking with a few people from his Hotel. They all need to get to the same Albergue that I am staying in but not later than 4:00 pm or there rooms could be given away. I am prepaid so I can leave when I choose to. Thank You Sharel. 

Rainer is skipping today's segment. It's long and he's done it twice before. He has told me several times its about his least favorite part of the Camino. I get it. In my eyes he can't do anything wrong. It's another blessing that I am walking the Camino with my own tour guide. I would carry his backpack if he asked me to. I will soon share with you another situation where one person carries another pilgrims backpack for more than 7 miles.

Remember Janet from Indiana? It's a repeat performance by Michele but its not Janet from Indiana. 

Back to breakfast. As I am ordering my sandwich Fernando and Nelly are getting ready to leave. Fernando stops by the table to say Buenos Dias. I ask him how is foot is? We don't speak a word of each other's language but we seem to understand each other pretty well. 

Nelly was busy paying for their breakfast and joins Fernando and immediately begins interpreting. As for Fernando's foot Nelly explains that ten years ago Fernando hurt his foot while working in the building trade. A tough business. I can only imagine how many other injuries he has had, its tough work.

I can say that because I worked as a laborer for two summers for a great man named Harry.  I was a 17 year old junior in high school and my partner in completely botching up every task we were given was Mike, an 18 year old senior .

When I have told people about those two years I will laugh so hard while I do it that I will come close to breaking a rib. All you need to do is ask my brother Rick and his wife Jill to tell you what's it like to hear what Mike and I did. 

Ever lose a dump truck? Poor cement on a wedding cake the day of the wedding? Have you ever cut down the wrong fifty trees? I could go on but this is not the time or place. Robin says I should write a book. I don't think so.

My point is I understand how Fernando could be injured in his line of work.

 Back to the Camino stage 18. According to a number of guide books I have now taken more than 530,000 steps and have about 470,000 ahead of me. I am packed and ready to get started. I will be walking alone today and that's just fine.

 I leave the Hotel at about 9:30. I need to get some hand cream because my hands are fried and 

the passengers in my Limo's would also like some attention. There is a drug store on the way. I saw it last night. I hope it's open before 10:00.

It is open. I use some gestures with my hands and she understands. She then places three tubes of hand cream on the counter, I guess this is where I decide between doors one, two or three. I pick number two. She smiles which I think means she agrees with my choice. The hand cream cost is 8.90 Euro about $11.25 US. That's more than all but two of the bottles of red wine I had in the villages.

My next stop is the Camino shop. I am hoping that they will sell cheap sunglasses. The Camino shop in Pamplona did and I have not been able to find a replacement for the missing second pair. I really need them . Yesterday with the wind blowing and the sun light bouncing off the white trail my eyes are constantly dry or tearing. Today's walk conditions and length will be very tough on my eyes if I can't find glasses.

I am in luck! I see a rack of sunglasses in the rear. Well, it's a rack but there are only four choices. One pair is immediately eliminated because I know without even trying that they won't fit my Mellon. Another pair is yellow, I don't think so . Two remain to choose from . Anybody ever heard of Coco

Channel ? There they are. No, I can't do it. I want to so I can bring them home for Pat to wear when he walks the Camino in August but I select the only other pair. My eyes are saved !

Last stop before I get to the Camino. I need water and something to eat along the way. The guide book says there is not much available and water is in short supply so I must bring enough with me. That will mean a little extra weight. Two liters of water weighs about four pounds. 

I go to the local market and just can't find anything to bring to eat along the way. I do get my water and I do pick up a couple of things for lunch. 

Lunch today will be a combination of an orange, dark Swiss chocolate and a small bag of almonds. Yes, the Camino lunch. Perhaps when I return I can get Jaxier to put it on the menu in the Men's Grill.

The Camino lunch available at Dove, just in case it's cart path only and you have to actually walk to your ball.

With my new sunglasses, water and lunch I start my 17 mile hike. 

The weather is good. It's cool and the wind is up but nothing like yesterday. The first two miles of the walk today is on or alongside paved roads. There isn't much traffic but whenever there is you pay attention. These people drive fast and the roads are not very wide. I always walk on the side of the road with traffic approaching me. If I can see them coming toward me I have a better chance if I need to get out of the way than if the problem is coming at me from the rear. I don't care which side of the road the Camino arrow is painted on.

Once I get to the trail I am already sweating and I need to get rid of my jacket. It's still cool but I have become use to this combination . I will also for the first time tie my poles to my backpack. They won't be needed today and it will be easier to walk without them. 

The guide book was correct. It's flat, there is not much to see accept miles and miles of wheat and corn. In front the view is exactly the same for the next 15 miles. A light colored trail that is straight and just looks endless. 

I am moving at a pace that has me passing many pilgrims. I catch up and pass Fernando and Nelly. They left at least an hour before me. Not long after I pass them I catch up with Michele, Emily, Anna , Emma and Bono. I will explain Bono later. I don't like him.

As I get closer I can see that something is wrong. Michele is carrying two backpacks. His own on his back and a second strapped to his chest. The second one belongs to Anna. Her left leg s badly swollen and she is using her poles like cains. From this location we are at least 7 miles from the only tiny village before the final stop. 

I ask him if he wants to spread the weight of Anna's bag amoung all of us to make it a little better. He says no . Her bag is smaller and he feels balanced. Michele and I move on. There is no point in lagging back trying to walk at the pace needed for Anna. That would be worse. 

We march on. We are making very good time actually passing quite a few pilgrims, some we know. Michele tell's me that Anna's leg is not the only issue, in fact it's the smaller issue she is dealing with. Anna's sister contacted her late last night to tell her that her Father died suddenly.

I thought when I saw her crying back on the trail it was the leg problem. I now understand what the real problem is. I assume she will fly back to Brazil as soon as possible but Michele tells me that Anna's sister has told her to complete the Camino. It's what her Father would want her to do.

We both agree on one thing. Anna must take a donkey service to the next hotel or in this case the Albergue where we are all staying. It's the only place to stay and from the village we are now quickly approaching its another six miles. Hopefully there will be some way to find her a ride. She can't walk much longer.

Michele and I arrive at the next, only and last village before the final destination. As we make a turn following the Camino markers there it is, a taxi. I never would have guessed that there would be any taxi service here. Michele finds the driver in the cafe and books the car before anyone else can. The cost to take Anna to the Albergur is 15 Euro. Cheap to say the least. 

The group arrives but Anna is still lagging behind. She is struggling. Once she does arrive the cafe guy gives her a bag of ice for her leg and the driver is ready when she is. We sit for about thirty minutes and have what is a well deserved boccidillo. Once Anna and her backpack are loaded we all leave and soon thereafter we are in multiple groups. Pace, thats all that matters.

I am first to arrive and the Albergue is fairly new and clean. I get my room and go back to meet Rainer for a beer. Rainer has taken the donkey service and arrived a couple of hours ago.  As we are having our beer he asks me if I will use the laundry service? Laundry service ? He explains.

At this Albergue you can have all of your laundry washed for 4 Euro. Sign me up! I am given a rubber bucket and told to just bring it back to the desk and they will handle it. I follow her instructions and bring back basically everything I have and just throw on a pair of shorts and a tee shirt. Its really warmed up and the sun is out. It's a really nice day.

About an hour later as we are now all gathered in the cafe the woman I gave my laundry to walks up to our table and drops the rubber bucket next to me. It's my laundry . It's been washed but its all wet. At that moment I find out that now I need to take the wet clothes and go out back and hang them all on the clothesline . Everybody says they want a picture of me hanging my laundry! They all think it will be very funny, especially Fernado and Nelly.

I do go outside get the needed clothes pins and get started. Everyone can't wait and now the picture session begins. Yes I have a picture which will be sent to Robin. Ok, now that that's been taken care of its time for dinner. I did think for just a second that perhaps I should find out where the laundry room is to see if they are using Veep. It would give me some valuable competitive info! 

Dinner is not very good. It's not supposed to be , it's a pilgrim meal but once again the salad is very good, very fresh. I don't eat much of the main course pasta because its just not good. No problem, I'm not very hungry.  

Rainer, Michele and I retire to the cafe- bar-reception desk. The owner, a very nice lady begins a conversation with Rainer as he checks out the small selection of wine on the counter. They chat and she leaves and returns with three bottles that are not on display. They are all Crienza quality. We each order a glass of the Rioja, its good and she is pleased that we approve. Rainer asks if she has any Reserva or Alta Rioja . She goes into the back room again and returns with a Casis 2006 Gran Reserva which was a Gold Medal winner in 2012. She is very proud of the wine and goes into great detail about how famous the wine is. Rainer asks her how much? She says it's not for sale. It's the only bottle she has. She turns to help other customers and while she is gone we huddle about the wine.

When she returns we make her a Godfather like offer. You know "an offer she can't refuse". She caves. It was worth every penny. I am sitting here tasting this really terrific wine waiting to go back outside to take my clothes off the clothesline. It's the Camino, it happens.

It's been a long day and tomorrow will be another 17 miles

, stage 19. But first as promised the final piece of the Ryan Hospital nightmare. It's good.

As I wrote in my last post Ryan was given what was needed to save him. He was fully recovered in less than forty eight hours. We are taking him home and one of the young Doctors tells me another good piece of news. The research they have shows that in all of the cases, about two thousand in the US, there has never been relapse, never. 

The Doctors ask if we would be willing to bring Ryan back once a month so they can monitor his blood  and generally his development for the next two years.  Yale has never had another "Ryan" and getting to study him will be of great value in helping them and others better understand this disease . Never any hesitation. 

Four nearly the next two years we take Ryan to Yale. I can only hope that the nightmare of that night has helped save just one other 3 year old. 

That's it for now, I'm tired. I will leave Bono for tomorrow . Good night.

.

Stage 17, a short walk to Carrion De Los Condes .... I meet The Candy Man of The Camino.

I am now more than half way to Santiago. Today the distance is not only a short 12 miles, it is also flat. No challenges today. 

Today's blog will also be much shorter than my previous posts. Yes, it's your lucky day. No wine needed.

Michele comes to meet Rainer and me at our Hotel. It is 9:00. Rainer and I have had breakfast and I am packed and ready to go when Michele arrives.  Rainer will leave after us and as is now the norm we will meet for dinner.

We are moving very quickly . There will be nothing once we pass the last cafe about two miles from our starting point. We will stop there. Michele has not had breakfast and wants something to eat with his cafe. I am just not hungry in spite of today's "breakfast" being next to nothing. 

I order a cafe-con leche.  I really can't get use to the beard and the con leche combination but I am trying. Michele orders a bocadillo and we take a seat outside. It's cold today and the wind is blowing pretty hard. It will really get going once we get into the open. There will be nothing to slow it down and it will be the only challenge . 

Almost on cue from around the corner Fernando and Nelly arrive. Michele as always, in his booming voice shouts out "Brazil" . This has now become the standard greeting for the Brazilian couple.

Nelly is bundled up with a wool hat, gloves, a turtle neck sweater and her rain jacket. She looks like she is looking for a Double Blue Run in Aspen! I ask her if she is going skiing and she laughs and interprets for Fernando who just laughs and says "Jim, Jim, Jim". He thinks I'm funny.

We finish our visit and wish them Buen Camino and head back to The Camino. From that point on this piece of The Camino is a combination of trail and roads. The roads are not busy so it's just making the walk that much faster. The wind is howling and its getting colder because of it.

We are on a pace to get to De Los Condes in less than four hours. At about the half way point you have two routes to choose from. The trail route and the road route for the second half. The road route will be faster but it's a busy road even on a Sunday. We select the trail, we don't need to be any faster. Camino rules. If one of us wanted to take the road route no problem we would just split up and meet later. I wonder if the Weather Girl has figured this out yet.

Here is only one thing that makes today's walk special. There's always something. The trail is narrow and we are walking single file. I see a man up ahead, an older man. He is looking at us as we approach. He is holding a bag of something . 

He says to me in a very bold voice "Buen Camino", reaches into his bag and hands me two wrapped pieces of candy. He then offers to shake my hand and is speaking to me in Spanish. I don't know what he is saying. He repeats the candy process with Michele. We visit.

The Candy Man, a name I have now given him, tells Michele that he has spent everyday for the past 12 years driving to points along the Camino close to his home to keep in good repair the Camino signs which help direct the pilgrims. He points to the sign behind us where he has just cut the grass with a hand tool. I have a picture. 

We thank him several times and he sends us on our way. The highlight of the day. We arrive shortly thereafter to De Los Condes. A short beer. And then on to our different Hotels . 

Dinner is at 7:00 with Rainer and a couple of the "children". It's ok but not memorable. An early night. It will be needed because tomorrow stage 18 will be the longest walk of the entire journey. Tomorrow I will walk for the 18th consecutive day, a walk of 21 miles. 

That's it for now. I told you it would be your lucky day. 

To Fromista stage 16 .... It's official, Margaret has gone home, her Camino has ended.

Margaret's Camino has ended. But we push on . Our next objective is stage 16 Fromista. There will be an early test on this 16 mile stage. Sixteen miles is a long segment.

Michele and I leave just ahead of Rainer. It is a nice day, a bit chilly but the hill we climb just one mile into stage 16 will provide lots of opportunity to get warm quickly. We are moving at a good pace when I look ahead and see what is starting to look like a traffic jam. 

It's the hill. Wow. Even from where we are I can see that is a challenge. There are a number of pilgrims scattered on the trail to the top. Lots of pilgrims stopping to catch their breath and drink whatever it is they are carrying. This will not be a single shot march to the top. 

We take the first half of the 600 feet rise in good time passing many others. That's the way it's supposed to be. Just go at your own pace and don't worry about how long it takes to get to the top, just get to the top . 

I stopped well before we started up to take a picture.  It's an attempt to let you see what lies ahead. I don't know if it will show up but if I'm not to far away it should work. I also stop half way up and then again at the top and take pictures looking back. The village of Castrojeriz should be visible and may provide some perspective. I will send these to Robin.

At the top there are a number of pilgrims resting and also celebrating the climb. Some are waiting for others. Burgos Ray will surly be pushed today. I just changed his name to Ray because its just easier to remember and spell. Burgos Ray, it has a nice ring to it. 

Just over the top of the hill there is a small monument with a simple plate which tells the story of a young man, age 42, who reached the top of the hill and died at this point. Sad, but it happens. I am glad that I was not aware of this before we left today. 

From this point on there is very little to see that is more interesting than anything I have seen thus far. It will be just a long walk in the sun. It's a nice day, sunny and mild. It will not be long before I am down two layers and sweating. My feet are fine, my minor toe issue has been taken care of. It's sore but it won't get in the way.

There is almost zero shade. Water is not readily available but I have what I need. Just keep going. Michele and I are making good time when we catch up with Anna. We are now all walking together and as I stop to take pictures or drink some water Anna and Michele are moving very well ahead of me. Soon the gap between us is probably a half mile. 

This trail is visible for miles ahead. The wind is up a little but its not a problem. The only "attraction" today (at least for me) is the Canal De Castilla, built in the 18th century for transporting people snd goods, it is now used only for irrigation.

I am about nine miles into the walk and I can see a small group of buildings about a mile ahead. I get closer and Anna is standing outside this small Albergue waving at me to come inside. Michele and Anna have stopped and Anna is having some problem with her right foot or heal. Michele has something like a sports cream which heats up once you apply it. They are discussing in Spanish if it will help with Anna's problem. She decides not to use it.

After a Coke Zero we are heading back out again, all three of us. It's not long before Michele and I pull away as Anna takes a slower pace. 

We reach Fromista in very good time. Michele is staying at a different Hotel which we come to first. My Hotel is just a couple hundred yards past his. We stop and have a short beer as a reward for today's effort. I am for the first time in two days hungry.

Rainer and I are staying at the same Hotel and we agree to meet back at this location at 8:00 before dinner. Reservations at 8:30 at what turns out to be the best restaurant we have been to so far. Rainer knows what he's doing when it comes to a lot of things on The Camino. Food and wine are at the top of his list. I remind myself just how blessed I am to have met these two guys.

We meet back at the cafe and all of the "children" have arrived and gathered there. Rainer and I call them the children because they are for the most part very young. Today there are several new faces. I take a seat and introduce myself to a young guy next to me. His name is Fernando. He lives in Spain and this is his first Camino. I would guess that he is 25. 

Grab a glass of wine. Really, go and get one.

He asks me "why are you walking the Csmino"? His English is pretty good, much better than my nonexistent Spanish. My response is simple. "Mine is a walk of gratitude". I can see he is confused. I attempt to tell him more but what I want to tell him he will not understand . But I will share it with you.

When Ryan was just three years old he got sick like all three year olds do. You know a cold, an ear infection maybe even the flu. 

He was sick for about a week and his mother took him to the Pediatrician twice in just a couple of days because he was not getting any better. First diagnosis, the flu. I was working and fortunately not far away as would normally be the case. 

I get a call and his mother has made what will turn out to be a critical decision to take him to the emergency room . That decision will save his life. I am on my way.

At the Bridgeport Hospital we are being looked after by a very young Doctor. Everyone in the emergency room is coming by to say hello and to of course tell us just how cute Ryan is. Some time passes by and I go to the front desk and I can't help but notice that all of the people who were so nice are suddenly not able or are trying to avoid making eye contact with me. I can sense that something is wrong, terribly wrong. I will never forgive the Pediatrician for what happened next. Never.

He is on the phone and wants to speak to both me and Ryan's mother at the sane time. There are two phones there at the emergency room desk. We are on the phone when the Pediatrician says "Ryan has Leukemia". I cannot put into words what I felt at that moment. 

We are taken to a private room and the young Doctor who we had met a couple of hours ago walks in and hands me a brochure about the treatment of Leukemia! I can't think straight but I do recall that I asked him to leave us alone immediately. He apparently skipped the class on bedside manners or on how to deal with real people who have just been given the most terrifying news they had ever heard. 

Ryan's Mother and I discuss this news and the decision is easy. We must get Ryan to Yale New  Haven Hospital now where he can get the best Pediatric care. I grab Ryan and as I walk out I tell the young Doctor to call Yale and tell them we are on our way. He tells me that I can't just take Ryan and leave. I tell him to call Yale in a way that could not be any clearer. Nothing is going to keep us from leaving. 

It's only about 30 miles to Yale. We arrive and they have been told we were on our way. They are ready for us. Ryan and his mother are taken into another room where the Doctors on duty immediately begin to figure out what to do. I am left to first complete the addmission paperwork. It's about 2:00 am.  

I will never forget watching the clerk begin typing on an old electric typewriter Ryan's name and then going on to the next line and typing in each letter on the card ..... LEUKEMIA . 

Ryan is admitted to the children's cancer ward. The nightmare just keeps getting worse. We are now in a small but private dark room. Ryan is in a crib, lifeless and his color tells the entire story. He looks very bad. I am scared to death.

I need to walk and think. He is sleeping. I get on the elevator and when the door closes I hit the stop button and get on my knees and ask God to save my son. I have never told anyone this before.

I return to the room. There is no change in Ryan, he is still sleeping. The door opens slightly and two young Doctors come in and sit on the floor across from me. A young woman and a young man. The young man begins to ask me questions about Ryan and as politely as I can I ask them to come back later. I have answered these same questions a number of times in the last three hours . 

At that moment I hear the young woman whisper to her partner "I don't think it's Luekemia".  I am now awake to say the least. I turn to both of the young Doctors sitting on the floor in the dark and I said "I heard that". At that moment I have the first sense of hope. I press them to tell me about what I just heard her say. They are both silent. I don't think I was supposed to hear that. I press harder.

The two young Doctors whisper among themselves and they are clearly concerned that they have allowed me to hear something that will cause them problems. They have spoken out or order or turn. I'm not sure what its called and I don't care. I want a response . 

In what seems like an eternity the young man does respond. "We think its something else". My first ray of hope. He says "we think its Heremic  Uremic Syndrome". ( please forgive the spelling it's really not important ) I am thrilled because they think its not Leukemia. I understand Leukemia . I know nothing about what they have just told me but I hope it's better.

I will shorten the details but at 7:00 that morning the entire staff of Doctors in the unit are with us telling us to not get ahead of ourselves. I understand now why the two young Doctors on the floor at 4:00 am were nervous when I heard what they said. 

They need to have a sample of Ryan's bone marrow and that's a surgical procedure which we instantly approve. The test comes back, the young Doctors have it right! Treatment is immediate including potassium and blood . We now wait.

In less than twenty four hours Ryan is Ryan again! It is a miracle. Ryan's disease is the first case of its kind at Yale and one of only a handful diagnosed in the US. I will never know what would have happened if first his mother had not had the good sense to get Ryan to a hospital and we did not just up and leave and get him to Yale. 

I thank the two young Doctors for having been willing to step out of being comfortable for their own benefit and getting it right. But most of all I thank Him for listening to me when I was in that elevator.

I am now glad that the young  Spaniard who asked me why I was walking The Camino did not speak perfect English.  It has given me an opportunity to tell a story which I have  kept to myself for more than thirty years. 

I am drained. I will complete  this post about stage 16 tomorrow. I know you will understand. Good night Ryan, I hope you are well.  Love Dad.

Continuing on to Castrojeriz .... stage 15, Dinner at La Taberna.

As I press on through the wind farm I catch up with Michele. It's actually getting very warm. I would guess that the temperature is closer to 70 than it is to 60. If this continues tomorrow could be a shorts day. That would be some change from the second day's snow storm.

I just woke up. It's Sunday and I am now writing the end of stage 15 which means I will be nearly caught up. I did see the pictures Robin selected for the posting. Nice job Honey, really nice job. 

The only significant structure we will pass by today is a short distance from our destination. We will pass under The Arco de San Anton. St. Anthony of Egypt , patron Saint of Animals. The structure is over a thousand years old.

We arrive in the village of Castrojeriz and begin the search for our two Hotels. It is about 3:30, we have once again made good time. Before we begin searching for our Hotel's we will stop in at what turns out to be a famous Camino location. 

As you enter this nice little place you immediately pick up the smell of something good coming from the Kitchen. The first room you enter is small and has two long tables positioned perpendicular to the bar. Michele heads to the bar and orders three small draft beers. He begins to speak with the owner.

Michele's understanding of and his passion for food pays off once again. We take a seat and out comes a combination of garlic stuffed green olives, the best and thinnest ham to date and a plate of cheese which has a coating of olive oil. The owner brings with him a bottle of Milcampos Tempernio

Which is the icing on the cake.

The owner is now holding court with us and he and Michele are raving about the dish and other combinations. The owner is so engaged in the conversation that he decides to just turn around take two steps to the front door and lock it! He just closed and its 3:45 . He will open again but for now he does not want any more customers to distract him from this conversation. We now have a private room. As I am sitting right next to the door I can see all of the people trying to come in banging on the door, the owner just ignores them. It's good to be King.

He goes back to the kitchen and returns with other types of ham and he also brings a book. He begins to explain to Michele that the book which was written by a very famous German author mentions the restaurant we are sitting in. Both Rainer and Michele immediately recognize the authors name and they begin to discuss his writings. Now the owner is very happy.

Long story short. The writer decides to just drop everything one day and head to the Camino sometime around 2001. When he completes the Camino he writes about it and it becomes a huge success in Germany and is directly connected to the increase in the number of Germans who walk the Camino.

The author, Hape Hans Peter as best I understand the explanation refers to the restaurant La Taberna where we are seated, as the best restaurant on The Camino. He shows the page where the comment is made. Michele asks if we can return for dinner and the owner reserves a table for us at 8:30. I think its going to be very good.

We check into our Hotels. Michele could not get a room where Rainer and I are staying. The two Hotels are next to each other and basically share the same cafe- bar-front desk. We will meet there at 8:15.

Once the gear is taken care of there is a small opportunity to try to catch up on the blog,  read a few emails and just relax after a shower. 

I feel fine, no significant health issues so far as I am approaching the half way point! Time to return to dinner. Michele is talking to a new pilgrim I have not met before. His name is Rainer and he is from Germany. He started his Camino in Burgos which means he just finished his second day. He does not know if he will continue, it's been very tough. He has no idea what hard is!

He turns to me and says that Michele told him that I am 65 and that I have walked 15 days starting in St. Jean. He asks me if that is true? I tell him yes and he says he does not know how I could do it because he is only 59 and is thinking about quitting. I just stay quite. What I wanted to say was stay away from the buffet table and you might make it. I nick name him Burgos Ray. Time will tell.

The three of us leave for dinner and we are not disappointed. The restaurant has three people working there. The owner, his wife and his son. They are all equally passionate about their restaurant and it's food and wine.

We sit and the son is talking with Michele about the menu. All I understand is that we must have the garlic soup. We all do and it's very good. The wine is selected by Rainer, its a reserve Rioja. I have the blue fish and a salad and Its all as good as I had thought it would be. 

It's late, I am tired. Back to the Hotel Stage16 tomorrow will be to Fromista, a walk of 16.1 miles with two significant hills. The first and most difficult hill comes quickly and has an elevation change of about 600 feet.

Burgos Ray will be facing his first real test tomorrow but he's lucky because at least it's not going to snow.  

Until tomorrow, good night.

It's Friday May 31st, on my way to Castrojeriz. Thirteen miles, we will lose a regular to an injury.

I made an error in a prior post by referring in it to Stage 15. That's was wrong, today is stage 15. My fifteenth consecutive day walking the Camino. Sorry about that. Its difficult to keep track of the days. I am sure that I have sent pictures to Robin with a note about the picture and have used the wrong stage number. Sorry Honey, I will try harder. 

I leave my little room and first I have coffee and a single piece of toast. That's all that is offered. No problem I will get something on the way.

The weather is once again very nice. It's May the 31st as I mentioned . It's a big day back at Dove. The Member Guest is under way and I can only imagine what is going on. 

First I will guess that there is lots of talk about some guest who showed up with a 13 handicap and shot 74 on the first day! People are always upset when this happens. Several guests are calling home having flown in from out of state only to realize that the member can't read his own greens asking himself why did I say "yes"?

That's ok, by Saturday there will be a long list of members telling their guests to look around or just take a picture because you will never see this place again! Oh I do love the Member Guest. My brother and I will be there next year. Book it.

The landscape is not all that different from the last few days. Michele , Rainer and I all leave Horrnillos Del Camino together but that won't last long. Pictures and pace will decide that and I walk about half of this stage alone. The gap between the three of us changes constantly. At times I am with Michele and at times I am with Rainer.

I would guess that we are about three miles into the walk and Rainer and I are together when we catch up with the older German woman, Margaret. She is not well. We stop and Rainer who is also German begins to ask questions. She pulls up her pant leg and its not good. Her left leg from the ankle to the knee is swollen badly and it's is covered in what looks like a rash.

She goes on to explain to Rainer that she had surgery on her left foot in February and again in March. Something is very wrong and while I'm no doctor the surgery comment and what her left leg looks like makes me believe there is a connection. 

She try's to convince Rainer that it's probably just a reaction to the bandage she had been using. I doubt that but I keep quite as Rainer talks to her about where the next Doctor will be and that she should consider using a donkey service to get there. The conversation ends, she says she is fine and we leave. We have ten miles to go. 

Rainer, the Camino veteran tells me that the next stop is only about two miles. There will not be another opportunity to stop until we get to the final destination for today.

As we approach and then enter this very pretty little village we turn up the hill and everyone we have been with on The Camino from St Jean is sitting at tables outside having something to eat and drink. It's like a reunion.

Elaine, Emma, Emily, Michele, Nelly, Fernando and even Mee-Sue has made it back . Everyone accept Margaret.  A couple of new faces from Ireland are also part of the group but I have not met them yet.

We leave together but are soon walking alone. I like the solitude. It causes you to think of many things that will surprise you when they pop into your head. Here is a great example and its one that will cause me to keep a smile on my face for the next mile at a minimum.

I am walking  along and have blocked out the fact that in this stretch of The Camino no matter where 

I look I see those ugly wind turbines everywhere, and then I remember something really great because of the turbines. 

Back in the mid-eighties I went to northern California to conduct some due diligence on a wind Energy Company that wanted to raise money from investors in order to build out their wind project and grow the business. 

My job was to help determine if the project was a worthy investment. I represented the third party marketing firm which would take the idea to Wall Street firms which could then offer the idea to  qualified investors.

I returned from my visit and brought with me all of the Company's offering materials which included a video tape presentation from a senior member of the management team.  So there I am on a Sunday afternoon watching this fairly short video and my son Ryan, who is six, is sitting there watching it with me. 

I have no idea if he is getting any of this. I am having enough trouble of my own so I just assume that maybe he just wants to spend a little time with the Old Man. I traveled to much at the time and was away from home far too often. 

 

I do recall very clearly that the spokesperson on the video refers to the investment as a "wind farm" several times in this short tape. I am familiar with the term and at the time thought nothing of it. 

Well, a short time after this Ryan is in school and his teacher asks each of the students to stand and tell all of the other kids in the class something about what there Dad does in his work.

When its Ryan's turn he stands and says "my Dads a wind farmer"! I can only imagine the reaction that got from not only the other six year olds but also his teacher. 

I find out about all of this some time later at a school function where his teacher tells me the story. Priceless! They may be ugly as I am walking among them now but I do have a smile on my face because of them.

That's it for now. I am doing my best to catch up and will try again tomorrow. Until then Buen Camino, and good night.