Day 27 ... S Day

Before I go into the S Day I’ll wrap up Day 26. After eating early and purposely getting to bed early because Day 27 will be very difficult and the bedding is so good I find myself in bed and asleep by 9:30. Perfect. Well almost. At 12:15 the phone in my room starts ringing and I mean really ringing. It shocks me out of the sleep I was hoping to get and I’m sitting up in a completely dark room, I can’t find a light switch and I can’t find the phone in spite of the noise. I finally find it and it’s the Hotel manager calling to ask if he can come to my room to check on a problem. My shower is leaking to the lobby level. Yes. What else can I say? He comes to my room and shuts off the water to the shower and leaves. There goes my great nights sleep. I get back to sleep shortly after the plumbing problem is solved and wake up at 7:00.

I go through my morning routine of coffee, stretching and packing and I’m out the door at 8:15. As soon as I step outside I’m immediately struck by the temperature. It’s chilly ... actually cold. I walk out of the village and over the last bridge and decide to unpack my rain jacket. As I’m going through the process of getting my jacket out I also decide that the bridge might be a good first photo but there is just one problem ... my phone is missing. I’m now on my way back to the hotel a bit panicked but somewhat sure it’s there. Thankfully I’ve only gone a short distance or as Big John from Arizona would say, just another detour. 

I’m back at the hotel and yes I left it in the room. It’s now 8:50 and once again I start Day 27.

I’m taking the road route for the first eight miles and that will be flat and easy before I reach the dreadful hill at about the eleven mile point. I cover the first seven miles pretty quickly before I take my first break. I’m trying to walk as far as I can in the cooler temperatures. I take a break, have a little something to eat and I’m back on the Camino. I don’t see many of the familiar faces but I do meet a new interesting Pilgrim. His name is Lon, he’s from Switzerland. He strikes up a conversation with me as he is about to pass me. I’ve given him the name Cinco because this is his fifth Camino, all from St. John. He brings up the walk to the Cruz and is of the opinion that it’s the hardest day. Given the fact that he’s faster than I am and it’s his fifth Camino I can’t argue that. He wishes me Buen Camino and off he goes. I’m sure he’s older than me. I wish I had asked.

As I approach what is the last village before you start the climb I stop at a little stand owned by a young women who offers freshly made as you wait fruit drinks. I order the banana, melon and blackberry combo with ice. Great last stop. I’m back on the Camino and I see ahead a taxi loading four young Americans. I’ve seen them before but never met them. They tend to only talk to people who are within a year or two of their age. As I walk past them about to face the hill one of the young girls sees me and turns away I believe out of embarrassment that they are about to skip the hill by way of taxi while this old guy carrying his backpack is going to do it. Interesting.

The hill proves to be just as hard as I thought and remembered it to be. Just an endless climb with so many false tops. You reach a turn and think this is it and then you look ahead up the hill and you see that your not at all close to the top. While making the climb I am confronted by a herd of cows heading down the Camino at exactly the same place as on my first Camino. I mean exactly. I take refuge from the herd in exactly the same place and take a video. I have the same video from five years ago. I sent it to a few people at the end of the day. Finally after seven and a half hours I reach the top. I find my hotel. I have stayed here before. It’s a dump. I don’t care I just want to sit down.

Once all of the days chores are complete I walk to the end of the village to have dinner. I’m hungry so I pass of the ensalada mixta and have the chicken. Just what I need. While I’m eating at the bar Billy, from Tio Pepe, the twenty year old really shy kid comes over to me and says hello. That’s a nice surprise. We talk about today. I tell him he looks good and it seems he is happy about his new confidence. Terrific, I wish him well and head back to my Hotel. It is 7:30 and I’m in bed as I’m writing this. Tomorrow is SA Day. Going to do my best to get a full night’s uninterrupted sleep! 

Good night. Buen Camino.

Miles today: 16.2

Miles to date: 410.9

Steps today: 43,802

Steps to date: 966,090

Flights to date: 773

Total donations to date: $34,700.40

Day 26. A very long, hot day

Today, Day 26 was a very long day. It was hot and the sun was blazing at times when there was no shade for miles. Total miles today 19.1 This is one of the longest days in terms of miles but thankfully the terrain was manageable. 

The march into Molinaseca yesterday was much more difficult, even at the shorter distance. No contest. I met up with Don and Candy today about three miles in and we all agreed that yesterday was one of the three toughest days ... Day 27 tomorrow will also be one of the toughest three. It’s much harder because it follows a 19 mile day and it’s Day 27 so, you're a bit worn out and tired. 

I ended last night early after having dinner with Gary and Margot. My schedule is different from theirs, they will walk a shorter distance than I did today and then a longer day on Saturday. The benefit is that instead of walking 18 miles tomorrow including the very difficult last four miles up the rock covered hill to O’Cebreiro. They will stop six miles short and then go over the O’Cebreiro hill the next day. They will then walk to a village about ten miles past the hill. Confused? Me too, and I’m writing this. 

I left the village this morning at 8:30. I walked into Villafranca del Bierzo at exactly 4:15. I estimate that I took breaks which totaled about an hour and a half which means I covered the 19.1 miles in about six and a half hours. Not bad. The day would have been over 20 miles but at the last option I decided to take the road route and cut about a mile and a half off the total. A mile and a half less is great but the option of walking for about three miles in the blazing sun with one foot on and one foot off the road was not a good idea. The road is narrow and the trucks and buses are just flying past you. There is no room to go anywhere and it was hot... very hot. 

There was a nice bonus on arrival. My hostel is very nice, very quiet and they will do my laundry for six Euro. The room is small but a nice surprise is that the bedding is great, unlike most of the places I have stayed in where the thread count is normally about ten and the pillows are the size of marshmallows. I just returned from the plaza after having another ensalada mixta and I’m tired and looking forward to a comfortable bed before the very tough Day 27.

Tomorrow is in my opinion the hardest day on the Camino. Long and difficult up hill climb for the last four or five miles with lots of rocks. I consider it the final exam. You make it to O’Cebreioro and you have passed. You may not yet be finished but get past this day I think you will be going to the graduation in Santiago. By the way, tomorrow Day 27 is S day. There are eight letters in SANTIAGO which is how many days I left to complete the Camino ... so tomorrow is S day.

Good night . Buen Camino.

Miles today: 19.2 

Miles to date: 396.7

Steps today: 49,052

Total steps to date: 922,288

Total flights to date: 672
Total donations to date: $34,700.40

Day 25. A very rough day

Up and having coffee with Pat before he heads back to Porto. He will be back on Saturday and walk with me to Santiago starting next Sunday from Sarria. I knew that today would be difficult but I forgot just how hard it would be. I’m on the Camino at 9:00 heading for the Cruz de Ferro, all up hill for three miles. The guide book has it as the highest point on the Camino and as the heat increases it sure feels like it. The walk up to the Cruz is only a fraction of how difficult the climb down is. More than four miles of a very steep hill completely covered in stones of all shapes and sizes most of them lose which increases the risk of turning an ankle. I did not bother to attempt to keep track of the number of near misses I had today but there were quite a few. Pace and focus are really critical. This in my opinion is the third toughest day. The toughest is still yet to come in a couple of days.

At the one mile mark into the stone ramp there are about a dozen pilgrims really struggling to get down the hill. They are sitting on the side of the Camino trying to figure it out. What they don’t know is that the hardest part is another mile away. I pass one couple who are really having a tough time but there is nothing anyone can do for them ... they don’t have an option at this point. I passed everyone in front of me and for four hours no one has passed me.

At the bottom of this nasty hill is a small village and as you enter the village there is a patio with tables, chairs and umbrellas. It’s always pretty full because if you make it down the hill you want to sit, drink and eat something. Off with the backpack, I have sweat through everything, completely. I sit at one of the tables and there is a menu on it. A waitress stands over me, remember I have been at this table for about one minute and in an accent that sounds like she is from Brooklyn New York she says “are you going to order anything?” With her tone and attitude I just stand up grab my backpack and said “no” and just walked away. I walk about a hundred yards and go into a little cafe. Inside it’s really nice and I’m greeted by the bartender as I drop everything and sit at a table. He comes to the table with a really cold glass of water and leaves a menu. That’s more like it. I order the local vegetable soup and a small draft beer. The soup is terrific and I end up taking the longest break I have ever taken on any Camino, about 45 minutes. Perfect.

I leave the little cafe and now have about four and a half miles to go before I reach today’s destination, Molinaseca. The final four and a half miles still have lots of rocks but the hill is not as steep. I find my hotel and take care of the usual chores and I am now sitting downstairs having a glass of wine while I write this. I got a text from Margot about dinner. I am meeting them with Don and Candy at seven at Casa Roman. I did see Don and Candy at the Cruze as I was getting ready to get back on the Camino they were just arriving. We chatted, they took my picture and then I moved on. 

So now about the Cruz de Ferro. It’s a holy place, spiritual for those who want it to be. People, many people, bring with them something to leave at the Cruze which is symbolic for them. Often it’s a stone with a name on it. It could be someone who has passed away, someone who is struggling with an illness or any type of challenge. I am carrying several items for a number of friends. One is a very small red heart for Sharel and Andrew to leave at the Cruze to ask for a blessing for their wedding which is in a few short weeks. Another is for my sister Sue who passed away 17 years ago. One is for Robin ... I’m asking Him to cure her of her terrible migraines. There is also a half of a stone for a friend who may someday come to the Camino and bring the other half with him.

Finally there are a number of items I have placed at the foot of the cross for Dan Daly which were given to me by his family. Dan was a sweet man, a man who truly loved his wife Barb, his daughters Debbie and Dianne as well as his grandchildren. When I walked my first Camino, Dan followed me everyday on my blog and when I came home he and I had a lot of conversations about the Camino. He was always very kind about how much he enjoyed the blog. Often he would talk about someday doing part of the Camino. Unfortunately his health did not allow that to happen and he passed away just before Father's Day this year.

In addition to the items given to me by Dan’s family I have one other stone with his name on it. I picked it up in St. Jean before I took my first step on this Camino. I will carry it with me to Santiago so that Dan can walk the entire Camino with me. My plan is to take the stone to the Camino office and tell them his story, show them the stone and ask them to issue a Compestella in his name. I’ll give it a shot.

I told Pat about what I was planning and he came up with a great plan B if the Pilgrim office turns me down. We will know in just nine more days. Tomorrow is Day 26 and it is a 19 day. A very large no walk but nothing like today.

I’m going to dinner. It’s been a hard but great day. Good night. Buen Camino.

Miles today: 14.4

Miles to date: 377.6

Steps today: 38,732

Steps to date: 873,236

Flights to date: 660

Donations to do: $34,700.40

Day 24. Dinner with two Camino friends

Pat, Rainer and I met back in Astorga for dinner at Serrano. The food and wine were terrific but the company was better. Not much to report from yesterday’s walk. The weather was hot again but the bugs were not as plentiful. I made really good time because I left early and the only really challenging hill was at the very end with lots of rocks. 

Pat and I met at the hotel and caught up for about two hours before making our way to Astorga. All good. The Day 25 Walk will be much harder with lots of tough climbs both up and down with lots of Spanish potatoes. I will walk to the Cruz de Ferro where I will be delivering a few special items I have been carrying for others. More on that later.

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Good Night, Buen Camino.

Miles today: 12.5

Miles to date: 362.9

Steps today: 30,737

Steps to date: 834,504

Flights to date: 636

Donations to date: $34,700.40

Day 23 ... the very long walk to Astorga

Before I jump ahead to walking to Astorga I will first wrap up last nights evening at Tio Pepe. Dinner is available at 7:00 and I’m there just sitting on the patio, the one with the pinball machine having a glass of wine. There are two women sitting next to me who I have not seen before and they are clearly Americans. They live in White Plains, New York and are walking just six days to a village short of Astorga and then will make their way to Santiago by train and then on to Madrid to fly home. This trip is their fourth as they attack the Camino in pieces. Not uncommon.

I’m trying to decide what to eat but before that LILO comes to see me and gives me a big hug. She does not speak English so she brings the young girl with her to interpret. LILO says she remembers me, which is a surprise. I did leave a little something for her after she nursed me back onto the Camino. We took a selfie which I’m sending. That was nice. I order the ensalada mixta ... shocking I know. I was about to call it an early night when Candy, Don and the young Italian, Mathias arrive and will join me. They will eat and I will just stay for a glass of wine. 

I did not know this about Mathias but the Camino we are all on now will be his third this year! Yes, this year. He speaks several languages and is twenty six years old. A very nice young guy. Lives at home in a very small village in northern Italy with his Mother when he’s not walking the Camino. Works odd jobs in the winter, saves his money to pay for his Camino habit. I’m not sure what he’s trying to find on the Camino but it’s taking him longer than expected.

We are wrapping up dinner and the patio is nearly empty, save one young guy sitting alone with his back to the rest of the patio just drinking and staring at the wall. Candy calls out to him to join us. I’ve met him once before. He’s 20 years old and walking with his father. They live in Maryland. He moves a bit closer to us but does not really join us. He is painfully shy and he’s had too much to drink. Seems like a nice kid but he’s just lost and tells us he suffers from depression and is trying to figure it out. I’m not sure that the medication he’s taking was meant to be taken with Jack Daniels or the chain smoking. He staggered off to bed. Hopefully he will be fine. 

The room was just like most of the others in the small villages, small and hot. My window was designed to only be opened at the bottom where it could be pushed out only about three inches ... A completely senseless idea. Not enough room to create air flow but just enough to guarantee that you would hear every bell and whistle from the pinball machine.

I’m up early today ... day 23. Astorga is a long day and it’s warm but not hot. That’s a relief. I leave at 8:30 and pace myself for the long day. As it turns out today’s walk is 18.7 miles. That’s a long day. Neither the length of the day or the temperature is today’s real challenge. That comes from the gnats! At one point, for nearly an hour and a half I am swarmed by them and they are relentless. I walk all that time holding both poles in my left hand while using my right to hold my hat hitting myself with it as a fly swatter. By far the most uncomfortable part of the Camino thus far. It was so bad that I did not stop for water although I really needed to because then the swarm would have a stationary target. The swarm also slowed my pace. I left Tio Pepe at 8:30 and arrived at my hotel in Astorga at 5:30. I walked with Candy, Don and Mathias for about three miles. We stopped and I had a Coke Zero while they opted for food so I moved along. They are walking six miles fewer than me today staying at an Albergue outside of Astorga. I will see them in a couple of days.

Tomorrow is a big day, I’ve been looking forward to since my arrival. I will walk to Rabinal del Camino where I will meet up with Pat Mcfadden! Pat now lives in Porto Portugal and is going to drive some 250 miles to meet me and then we will drive back to Astorga to meet Rainer from my first Camino. The three of us will have dinner at my favorite restaurant, Serrano. After dinner Pat and I will drive back to Rabinal stay the night and on Tuesday morning I will get back on the Camino. Pat will drive back to Porto but will return on Sunday where he will join me in walking the final five days into Santiago. A great way for me to end my third Camino. By the way Rainer has walked three Caminos and Pat has walked two. 

Okay, so I’m sitting in bed writing this and decide to go downstairs to get a glass of wine and return to my room to complete today’s blog and who walks into the bar? Rainer. He’s here a day early. He lives in Frankfurt but also has a home in Spain so he came a day early. We grab a glass of wine and start catching up. What a great surprise. We finish the wine and I have to get to bed after such a long day and of course we will meet for dinner at Serrano tomorrow night. Rainer knows that today was a long day and encourages me to get some rest .. tomorrow we can spend more time together.

A couple of house keeping notes. First, I went back through my daily miles totals because the numbers were not adding up to the number of miles actually walked. I found the error and have corrected it. The actual miles to date are 331.4. Long story I made the same error several times but it’s now where it should be.

Tomorrow’s blog may not be posted at the end of tomorrow but will likely be posted on Tuesday. I will be busy having dinner with two great friends. 

Good night, Buen Camino.

Miles today: 18.7

Miles to date: 350.4

Steps today: 47,650

Steps to date: 804,767

Flights to date: 626

Total donations to date: $34,500.40

Day 22. On to Tio Pepe

I began walking today at 9:30, later than most days. It may have had something to do with the temperature in my room. I kept the air on the “snow” setting all night and woke up at 2:00 am to get a blanket ... perfect. From my hotel I need to make my way to the cathedral where I will find the Camino. When in doubt as to where the Camino is just look for the largest church and I can guarantee that the Camino will pass by it. 

The first digital temperature sign I see says that it is 27C which is 84F and it’s going to get warmer. It is what it is. I really don’t have an issue with walking in the heat, it’s trying to sleep in it that’s difficult. The walk out of the city is pretty much like walking out of any of the larger cities, lots of turns, lots of traffic and a constant search for signs telling you where the Camino is. Scallop shells yes but mostly yellow arrows painted on curbs, the back of signs, walls and anything else the volunteers can get a brush on. You would be surprised at how often and how easy it is to lose focus and find yourself standing still looking in every direction trying to find a sign which will not only tell you which way to go but more importantly confirm that you have not missed a turn. It’s a bit depressing to know that whatever distance you started out needing to complete the stage you are on just got longer because you have to backtrack.

I was in early last night enjoying the chill of my room, watching YouTube videos of old comedy routines. The alternative is to watch a card reader speak to people who call in about what lies ahead in their lives. There are actually three different channels which offer this right now. They keep flashing the number to call and there does not appear to be a shortage of people who need help on what their futures are.

I’m packed and out the door. I walk about four miles when I here someone call out to me. It’s Candy and Don along with one of the young guys from a week ago. They are moving quickly but obviously they also got a late start. They catch up and we walk together for a short distance. We are staying in the same hostel tonight ... Tio Pepe where Lilo once nursed my leg issue with the help of a sports cream and a bag of ice which she wrapped around my leg and kept changing for hours. I know it was the difference in getting through the next long 17 plus mile day. I decide to stop at the next location to stock up on the Spanish version of a sports drink. I’ll probably see them for dinner. Candy did tell me that their delay in leaving Leon this morning was connected to them being out until 2:30 am. That’s what happens with the young guys ... glad I was not with them for dinner but even if I had I know I would have called it a night long before they did. It’s hard enough to walk 13 miles in 90 plus heat with the sun beating down on you, so adding a hangover is just not anything I want a part of.

The walk was as I had anticipated, hot, boring and without many places of interest or where you could replenish your water. In the end I made very good time. I just put my head down and go at my pace and well, it’s working. I did stop at the last possible Farmacia to buy what I hope is my last tube of what I call the Advil cream. I’m not sure if I mentioned this but I also bought 600 milligram Ibuprofen pills at the Farmacia, 40 pills, total cost less than $5.00. 

I’m currently doing something I never do ... here or at home, trying to take a nap. I got here early and there is nothing in village of Maserife so I’m going to give it a try. Okay this can only happen to me. I get a ground floor level room and my room is directly next to the gathering location. The patio just outside my window also has a pinball machine which is in constant use by both locals and pilgrims. Nap attempt cancelled. All part of the journey. 

Okay so the nap idea is dead, I will head back to the bar-reception desk and watch either the bicycle racing or the soccer game ... one of the two will be on. I decide to take a walk around the neighborhood which should be the last thing I want to do. One loop and ten minutes later I’m back at Tio Pepe’s watching Barcelona play Madrid with two of the older locals. The two locals have two things in common. The first is that they appear to be wearing the same sweater. That’s right, I said sweater and yes it’s still above 80 degrees. The second is they drink coffee, one little espresso after another. Two things are really quite noticeable about the game. Nobody sits down while chanting for the entire game and when a player falls down or is tripped they act like they have sustained a life threatening injury which of course brings out the rescue squad with a bottle of water and soon thereafter the player who acted as if seriously injured continues to play. The chanting continues regardless. If any of these players ever attempted to play our brand of football they would not get past one play... not one.

It’s now 7:00 and I’m going to dinner with Candy and Don. We can catch up tomorrow ... on my way to Astorga a long walk of about 18 miles. 

Good night, Buen Camino.  

Miles today: 12.8

Miles to date: 285.3

Steps today: 33,051

Steps to date: 794,876

Total Flights: 629

Total donations to date: $34,500.40

Day 21. When will the heat go away? On my way to Leon

I have been in my room hoping to get a long night's sleep. That idea started at 9:15 and it’s now 11:51. The heat is just relentless. The problem is directly related to the fact that all of these small villages are built like fortress’s where all of the buildings are attached, the streets very narrow and it’s nearly impossible to create any air flow which results in the actual temperature feeling much higher than it is. That’s just my unsophisticated opinion. Regardless it’s just hot. The sleep plan is out the window .. that’s the very small window which provides no help.

It’s Friday September 14th and I am now 13 days away from walking into the plaza at the cathedral of Santiago ... just 13 more days. Today will be a short walk to Leon where hopefully I will be in a modern hotel which will have air conditioning. If the hotel I’m in does not I will find another which does. I just need a break from the room temperature. Walking in the heat and just sweating your butt off is fine but not being able to sleep after doing that is just a double whammy. 

I leave at 9:10. It’s a nice day, sunny and currently the temperature is fine. Today will be about a 13 mile hike to Leon most of which will be along side the freeway on paved paths. At about the three mile point in today’s walk the Camino starts meandering through the industrial section on the outskirts of the city. It’s boring to say the least. I did take a few photos but until you reach the center of Leon it’s a waste of time. My actual mileage today is 14.7 and I stopped only once to sit and drink a Coke Zero. There are a few short hills but I just want to get it over with so I’m pushing it.

I check into my hotel and the first thing I do when I get to my room is test the air conditioning ... it works! I set it to snow and get cleaned up. A quick lunch near the cathedral and then I search for a Camino shop but they are all closed. I need to replace my everyday walking shirt and the shorts. They have had enough and did a good job for 21 days. No rush I have two outfits to use and if I don’t find anything today I know where there is a good Camino shop in Astorga which will have what I want.

Like yesterday I have not seen anyone today. I’m in a different part of Leon than where most of the usual suspects are staying. In all probability I will not see any of them because I’m going back to my hotel to try to get a good nights sleep in a comfortable room. My late lunch eliminates any need for dinner. Tomorrow about 15 miles to Tio Pepe.

Good night, Buen Camino. 

Miles today: 14.7

Miles to date: 272.5

Steps today: 37,759

Steps to date: 761,825

Flights to date: 623

Donations to date: $33,490.40